Ok need battery expert here

[Rocky82]

I have (had) a Smart 30 II... Any-who it broke so now I'm left with a battery that's hardwired. I pulled away all the plastic away so I can see directly onto to the circut board. The battery has only been through around 15 cycles and I do NOT want to throw it away. I can see the positive and ground wires soldered on.. Can I take this battery off and somehow maybe like ...Stack it with some other ecig battery? I HAVE to do something with this battery! I cant throw it away.. In the mean time though I have an ipv Mini 2 on its way. I hope its an OK battery for my sub tank mini.. But yeah someone help... Is there a way I can solder this bad boy to like another battery to make it double mah.? idk.. Gimme suggestions please and keep in mind that throwing it away is last resort. I can give more info on the battery itself if need be, as in, whats written on it. Thanks guys.. and hey I'm new here so..hey

 

[dcfluegel]

welcome! i'm sure someone will chime in, but i don't really think that is going to be a safe option - generally with any connected batteries, you want matched pairs with essentially identical drain/charge cycles on them...

 

[yuseffuhler]

I have (had) a Smart 30 II... Any-who it broke so now I'm left with a battery that's hardwired. I pulled away all the plastic away so I can see directly onto to the circut board. The battery has only been through around 15 cycles and I do NOT want to throw it away. I can see the positive and ground wires soldered on.. Can I take this battery off and somehow maybe like ...Stack it with some other ecig battery? I HAVE to do something with this battery! I cant throw it away.. In the mean time though I have an IPV Mini 2 on its way. I hope its an OK battery for my sub tank mini.. But yeah someone help... Is there a way I can solder this bad boy to like another battery to make it double mah.? idk.. Gimme suggestions please and keep in mind that throwing it away is last resort. I can give more info on the battery itself if need be, as in, whats written on it. Thanks guys.. and hey I'm new here so..hey

First question.... if your mod with an internal battery broke, how did it break? If it was battery related (super common) then I'd say don't try to salvage a broken thing. It's a clone of an iStick right? I'd also say do not solder it to any other battery. Batteries have to be paired, and unless you have another one exactly like it that has been tested to perform really close to exactly the same, you could break 2 batteries instead of one... And your face at the same time. If it's a lithium polymer battery (should be, not sure), using it without protection circuitry is a no go. Sure, people use them for other things, like RC stuff, but you don't stick an RC in your face. Bottom line, I'd say not safe to use at all.

 

[NealBJr]

The safest answer is NO. Even though you've used the battery through 15 cycles, stacking batteries can be a dangerous and shorten the lifespan of anything you attach it to. As you use batteries, the ability for it to hold a charge as long diminishes. If you stack two dissimilar batteries, one will drain faster than the other when you use it..

Example.. Battery A is a used battery, Battery B is a new battery. both are freshly charged at 4.2 volts, and you decide to stack them. After 5 minutes of use, battery A drops down to 4.0 volts since it is older, and battery B is at 4.1 volts. Since they're stacked, they will want to be the same voltage.. so battery B will try and charge battery A... which means battery B will get warmer.. eventaully they both charge to 4.05 volts, but battery B is warmer. As battery B cools down, it lowers the voltage to 4.0.. then battery A will try and charge battery B..... and the cycle continues.

In otherwords, do not do it. It's best to "marry" batteries when you first get it. The new batteries you get may be from a different run, and not discharge like your other battery. It's a big no-no.

 

[Rsunderl]

Hi @Rocky82 and welcome to the forum!

I agree with what others have said and would add that soldering leads to a battery can damage the battery if not done properly. I'd advise just taking the loss and moving on.

Hope it helps and Happy Vaping!

 

[Rocky82]

First question.... if your mod with an internal battery broke, how did it break? If it was battery related (super common) then I'd say don't try to salvage a broken thing. It's a clone of an iStick right? I'd also say do not solder it to any other battery. Batteries have to be paired, and unless you have another one exactly like it that has been tested to perform really close to exactly the same, you could break 2 batteries instead of one... And your face at the same time. If it's a lithium polymer battery (should be, not sure), using it without protection circuitry is a no go. Sure, people use them for other things, like RC stuff, but you don't stick an RC in your face. Bottom line, I'd say not safe to use at all.

Ok to be honest the dam thing broke because of my curiously.. There were to screws on the bottom of the Smart 30 II so I decided to unscrew them and see what was inside.. I wanted to know if the battery was able to be replaced or if it was a one-go thing.. So I'm trying to slip the circuitry out and it was stuck by one or all of the 3 buttons.. I forced a little too hard and the power button came off along with the wattage buttons and also the soldering that went with it. And there is really no way to fix it (with my skill level).. Eventually after I broke all 3 buttons - the on button - the voltage up button - and lastly the voltage down button. After I broke all those I was able to slip it right out of the plastic sleeve it was in.. I actually still use it because the power button had a total of 4 contacts. To fire up, the button would've hit all 4 circuit contacts at once. So instead I just soldered 2 contact points out of the 4 together where the power button used to contact them and then with a small screw driver contact the newly soldered part with the other 2 contact parts which would complete the circuit to fire.. If that makes any sense.. I'm totally using it ghetto style lol.. No sleeve at all. It's just a pain to have to get the screw driver jusssst right to take a hit. As for the voltage up and down, that's a bit easier since there was only 2 contact points to begin with... So I was hoping I could somehow detach the battery and make it useful else where...Seems I may not after all

 

[Rocky82]

Hi @Rocky82 and welcome to the forum!

I agree with what others have said and would add that soldering leads to a battery can damage the battery if not done properly. I'd advise just taking the loss and moving on.

Hope it helps and Happy Vaping!

That's is such a downer... If anyone can think of an idea or somehow a way to stack it with another battery that would be superb.

 

[yuseffuhler]

Ok to be honest the dam thing broke because of my curiously.. There were to screws on the bottom of the Smart 30 II so I decided to unscrew them and see what was inside.. I wanted to know if the battery was able to be replaced or if it was a one-go thing.. So I'm trying to slip the circuitry out and it was stuck by one or all of the 3 buttons.. I forced a little too hard and the power button came off along with the wattage buttons and also the soldering that went with it. And there is really no way to fix it (with my skill level).. Eventually after I broke all 3 buttons - the on button - the voltage up button - and lastly the voltage down button. After I broke all those I was able to slip it right out of the plastic sleeve it was in.. I actually still use it because the power button had a total of 4 contacts. To fire up, the button would've hit all 4 circuit contacts at once. So instead I just soldered 2 contact points out of the 4 together where the power button used to contact them and then with a small screw driver contact the newly soldered part with the other 2 contact parts which would complete the circuit to fire.. If that makes any sense.. I'm totally using it ghetto style lol.. No sleeve at all. It's just a pain to have to get the screw driver jusssst right to take a hit. As for the voltage up and down, that's a bit easier since there was only 2 contact points to begin with... So I was hoping I could somehow detach the battery and make it useful else where...Seems I may not after all

A lot of the cheap regulated mods are just a hot mess inside. I wouldn't recommend salvage. I have no idea what the limits are on that battery. Batteries are the single most dangerous piece of our equipment, and also one of the cheapest. I'd say get a nice solid mod with a replaceable 18650 battery, or learn how to make your own (can be cheap). Btw, that's about the craziest way I've heard of vaping. I don't think I'd have enough hands.

 

[Rocky82]

The safest answer is NO. Even though you've used the battery through 15 cycles, stacking batteries can be a dangerous and shorten the lifespan of anything you attach it to. As you use batteries, the ability for it to hold a charge as long diminishes. If you stack two dissimilar batteries, one will drain faster than the other when you use it..

Example.. Battery A is a used battery, Battery B is a new battery. both are freshly charged at 4.2 volts, and you decide to stack them. After 5 minutes of use, battery A drops down to 4.0 volts since it is older, and battery B is at 4.1 volts. Since they're stacked, they will want to be the same voltage.. so battery B will try and charge battery A... which means battery B will get warmer.. eventaully they both charge to 4.05 volts, but battery B is warmer. As battery B cools down, it lowers the voltage to 4.0.. then battery A will try and charge battery B..... and the cycle continues.

In otherwords, do not do it. It's best to "marry" batteries when you first get it. The new batteries you get may be from a different run, and not discharge like your other battery. It's a big no-no.

So is my main concern heat or less battery use/power when battery A is weaker than Battery B??

Any way regardless. If I have to vape with a screwdriver than it's whatever, but I at least had to come and ask you guys if there were any options. It's all good though.

 

[suprtrkr]

I can't honestly recommend it. LiPo's have a nasty habit of doing ugly things when mishandled. I intend no offense when I say this, but the questions you have asked indicate to me you can not do it safely. Far, far better to recycle it. It most definitely should not be paired with another battery. A good tech could salvage the board, install some new tactile switches and build the same mod into another box. But you say this is beyond you skill. So be it. Let it go and stay alive, keeping your sight in both eyes.

 

[MotoMudder]

Vaping with that screwdriver might kill you.
Your sticking a metal object onto a chip that if shorted out can cause the battery to explode.
There are possibilities for your battery, but there not worth the risk.
Toss the whole thing and save your face.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk

 

[Rocky82]

Ok guys I stopped vaping with a screw driver coz yall are scarin me.. My IPV Mini 2 arrived already and the batteries should be here later today. In the meantime for my safety, I'll just vape on my protank 3.. Unfortunately I'm new here so I never looked up the dangers but I ordered 2 samsung 25r's off of !!amazon!! All the horror stories here about them coming in fake..There coming later today so I guess I'll know soon enough.. Hopefully they're legit and I can get back to sub ohmin

 

[suprtrkr]

Smart move, and good luck with the batteries.

 

[Rocky82]

Well both the batteries and the charger came in and they both look real enough.. But counterfeiters can be so good at what they do.. I supposedly have two Samsung 25rs and a Nitecore i2.. Batteries came in dead(ish) so they're charging away..

 

[Mooch]

Here's a genuine 25R, do yours look like this? The wrap could be green or blue and the printing on the metal can might be different. But, the shape/configuration of the top of the battery will be the same as these pictures for genuine 25R's.

Dropbox - samsung 25r5 20a 2500mah 18650 can.jpeg

Dropbox - samsung 25r5 20a 2500mah 18650 top.jpeg

Dropbox - samsung 25r5 20a 2500mah 18650 bottom.jpeg

 

[Rocky82]

I didn't pull the blue wrapping off but from what I can see, they look legit.. I can't see the vent hole that's suppose to be on the positive end but it's probably too small to see. Plus the covering is all around it making it harder to see. I've done a lot of studying to see if these were counterfeit and it seems they are not.. But if anything they could be USED legit batteries.. I'm saying this because when they got here a few hours ago, they are STILL charging.. If they were brand new and unused shouldn't they be pretty fully charged or no?

 

[Mooch]

The i2 charges at 500mA so half-charged battteries (the typical level they're shipped at) would take about 3 hours to charge. But, if the 25R's were lower than half full it could take longer. I don't remember but the i2 might lower the charging current level if the battery is below a certain voltage. This could add a significant amount of time to the charging until the i2 went back up to 500mA.

Has the LED display changed the number of bars that are lit yet?

 

[gandymarsh]

I think they come that way from the factory. IIRC the batteries I bought many months ago came with no or very little charge.

 

[Rocky82]

Yeah it's weird now since I charged both batteries and have been vaping, one lasts longer than the other.. If they were brand new it wouldn't be that way right?

 

[Rocky82]

And even weird with what I just now noticed was, I took a hit and it was dry. I wondered why because I always have it set at 26W and the voltage reads 3.8. When I looked at it after the dry hit the wattage was still 26W but the voltage shot up over 4 and the ohm of the atomizer read from the original 0.5 to 0.6.. I set the wattage down to 22W to match the 3.8 volts I prefer to vape at. I took several hits and hurried up and took the battery out to make sure it wasn't hot or anything. It wasn't But since I had takin the battery out the IPV Mini 2 had to boot up again and when it did, it read the volts correctly again. So I had to take the wattage back up to 26 to match the 3.8 volts.. WTF?