Ok Noob mode - I need an quick introduction to Mech MODS

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Garemlin

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high drain IMR is what should be used in any e-cig mod regulated or non regulated, kicked or not kicked. The specs I gave were for the Kick2 by Evolv which right now is regarded as the best kick module out there.

But I thought what type of battery used in a mech mod is not the same as used in a vv/vw mod.
 

PhatRon

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You can get away with using a lower continuous discharge amp rated battery in a regulated mod but they should still be IMR chemistry for safety and due to the Pulse Width Modulation which will fire at higher volts for a certain amount of time in order to reach your set output voltage in some cheaper chip sets like the 33.3hz chips. 10 amp is usually the lowest recommended for a regulated mod.
 

TomCatt

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But I thought what type of battery used in a mech mod is not the same as used in a vv/vw mod.

You can get away with using a lower continuous discharge amp rated battery in a regulated mod but they should still be IMR chemistry for safety and due to the Pulse Width Modulation which will fire at higher volts for a certain amount of time in order to reach your set output voltage in some cheaper chip sets like the 33.3hz chips. 10 amp is usually the lowest recommended for a regulated mod.

Unless you are using a regulated mod that takes two batteries, all regulated and mech mods should ideally be using IMR batteries. Single battery regulated mods need the current that IMRs can deliver to boost voltage above the battery output voltage.


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If you're still interested in a vv/vw tube mod - take a look at the Vamo.

$32.43 Vamo V5 Variable Voltage/Wattage Mod / APV - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
 

k2zs

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Kicks also vary from brand to brand. I made the mistake (tried to save money) of buying the Smok Kick. It will only work with atty's over 1.1 - 1.2 ohms. It also uses Pulse Width Modulation.

The Evolve kicks are the only ones I know of (but then again, I'm new to this) that go down as low as .5 ohms. They also do NOT use pulse width modulation so they have a much smoother fire cycle...
 

edyle

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Yes you are correct about the Kick turning your mech into a VW device. Here are the specs for you and for others who view this thread and are interested:

Output Power- 5 Watts to 15 Watts
Output Voltage- 2 Volts to 6.3 Volts
Output Current- 6 Amps
Atty Resistance- 0.5 Ohms to 3.3 Ohms
Low Battery cutoff- 2.7v loaded
Synchronous rectified for maximum battery life (very efficient)
Step-up/Step-down capable (RBA/RDA low Ohm friendly)

It will take away the worry of running your battery too low because most batteries suffer in the longevity of viable use department if they are over-discharged under 2.5 volts (some people argue it is more around 3v or sometimes even higher). The kick2 will simply not fire the mod and it will regulate down to the last bit of battery it can use. Some mods do include a kick tube and/or ring that will allow you to run a 18650 with the kick like the Nemesis so you may want to look for some that are kick2 capable with the 18650 if you want an extended battery life. Using your 1.6+ ohms preference you should be able to get some pretty good battery life. The K100 and K101 do not have a top cap that is made to be detachable (it is press fit) so it will be a bit of a PITA if you want to put it in there and remove it later on down the line for a different mod and also make adjustments to the output power because that is controlled with a screw on the top of the kick module itself so also keep that in mind when choosing a mod as well.

Shouldn't that be:
Output Voltage- 2 Volts to 6.3 Volts FLAT DC Voltage, (Not pulsed PWM)
 

bce22

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Thank for the replies guys. Very helpful. I have tried a bottom fire at a local vape shop and with my arthritis it wasn't very comfortable to use. On top of the fact I currently have a wrist injury and my grip is nil.

So when you say lower resistance cols how low?? Like 2.0Ω and lower?? Or lower than that. Like the 1.6Ω range. I'm getting ready to venture into a KFL clone and try my hand at building cols. But I still like using my reliable clearos.

And what are the dangers I always hear about with mech mods???

Batteries. What is the highest mAh out there that is good to use in a mech???

And how about some suggestions for some budget priced but still decent quality mods.

Oh and there was one I saw a few days ago but don't recall where that I really loved the looks of. It was black and very edgy and industrial looking. Dunno if it is budget priced but I still might like to pick one up eventually.

To me one of the biggest dangers is the fact that they have no fire cut-off. It happens to almost everyone at some point where their mod will be firing automatically when it shouldn't be. This can over tax batteries and ruin atomizers. Don't get lazy with locking the device when not in use. Develop good habits from the start. Good mechanical mods aren't just those with less voltage drop. Good mechs fire when the button is depressed, easily allow for battery and atomizer adjustments, don't fire on their own when placed down and easily lock when your not using them. I've used great devices (or so I thought) where I loved everything about them but the locking ring kept getting stuck. I don't use these mods anymore.

Buy good batteries and charger, a multimeter or ohm reader to test resistances of your coil and check for shorts and an understanding of what resistances are safe for your battery and you will be in safer vaper vaping bliss. None of this is hard nor expensive nor super time consuming. It just requires some thought.

Another quick thing, I recommend leaving the mech at home and grabbing something else if you plan on consuming too many adult beverages. Alcohol and mech mods don't mix too well in my estimation.

If your looking for a mech recommendation I really like the stingray mod (or its clone) as it has everything I mentioned above plus great voltage drop and looks pretty sexy to boot.
 
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