I have a silver Caravela clone, and a Stillare, love it, best set up yet, well my girl snagged me a black Caravela, I'm super stoked about it, but, when i threw my vtc4 in, and the same stillare i had on my other caravela, first i just couldn't get it to fire, then when i did, it took forever for my coils to heat up, i have dual parallels in at .1 ohms, about 5 wraps, so it usually fires instantly, but the firing button also got hot as hell, almost to hot to touch. i did a liiiittle research and heard it may be because of the anodized black paint they use, conducts the heat a lot, is this the problem, and if it is, is there any way i can fix it?
okay, i can only post here? well, mech mod question
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No disrespect to your setup bro but .1 ohms is pretty dangerous dude. Bring it up to about .3 to get in the sweet spot also check the how the 510 is connecting with the battery (take off your atty and shake it up) if you feel movement your battery is loose. But eventually you will get the hang super sub ohming is never a wise practice you only get one face.
Sorry, you have no Idea what does what so you should slow down and get some education behind you before hurting yourself of someone else.
The Anodize if thick may be causing POOR CONDUCTIVITY - lack of current flow. Your Switch is taking the blunt of the power and the Spring is super heating. Doomed to fail if you do not correct it.
Black is pretty. Black is dumb. Black is a coating and coatings rarely carry currant.
Maybe you can lightly wire brush and expose the metal without damaging threads............maybe.
First thing to do with a new mod is Clean and inspect all parts then Test
Then if all is correct try using it.
Multimeter is indispensable
The Anodize if thick may be causing POOR CONDUCTIVITY - lack of current flow. Your Switch is taking the blunt of the power and the Spring is super heating. Doomed to fail if you do not correct it.
Black is pretty. Black is dumb. Black is a coating and coatings rarely carry currant.
Maybe you can lightly wire brush and expose the metal without damaging threads............maybe.
First thing to do with a new mod is Clean and inspect all parts then Test
Then if all is correct try using it.
Multimeter is indispensable
take some oven cleaner on a q-tip and clean off any dye coloring on the threads once that's don't the color is gone now you still have to remove the anodized layer that can be done with 000 grade steel wool wrap it around the threads and twist back and forth it will help to remove the anodize layer and the 000 wont ruin the threading the anodized layer that gets raised is only a few mils thick. BTW the anodize is the process of raising a layer of oxide on the surface, the part then becomes no-conductive, the part then is dipped in DYE to color the part and then removed from the dye and sealed to locking in the color
You're good dude, and I know, but I also know what I'm doing to a respectable extent, it was just a fun build, and all the connections are fine, by battery is about a mm loose when the buttons at rest, and fully tight when its mashed, the top pin is flush with the atty, i got it to work, it just didn't fire hardly at all. silver plated pins shouldn't drop voltage that hard. blehh, ill just have to fiddle with it.
yeah, im not 100% on the anodized coating or whatever, it was just all i could find on it, hence why i joined this forum, i guess its not a super common issue, i cleaned the whole thing, its a really well made clone, a little better than my last caravela even, visually anyways, ill just stick with the old one, its never given me any issues, the black one was free anyways, so i cant really complain
I'll give ya' a buck for that obvious piece of crap... and shipping costs too!
Oh... and welcome to ECF!
lol, if you could get it to work be my guest, let me be a little more thorough on what exactly is happening, now that ive fiddled with it some more. ignore my .1 ohm, i know how to not blow myself up, im not going to throw a .... 30A in there with hopes of it working, i only use vtc4s, and i never go this low, i just wanted to push it for ....s an giggles.
its got a dual adjustable top pin, silver plated, painted black, head to toe, threads, on the inside and all. whenever i fire it, the sides heat up a little, then the button itself heats up, and by the time i can feel the button heat up the sides are scolding hot. by that point its only putting out as much vapor as my standard .6-.8 coils do. and when i pull the battery its lukewarm, much cooler than the shell. so the battery itself doesnt appear to be inherently overheating, just warm from the warmth of the shell... also just threw on my omega with a dual dragon at .4 on it, same exact results, for you super sub haters. thats where i stand on it.
its got a dual adjustable top pin, silver plated, painted black, head to toe, threads, on the inside and all. whenever i fire it, the sides heat up a little, then the button itself heats up, and by the time i can feel the button heat up the sides are scolding hot. by that point its only putting out as much vapor as my standard .6-.8 coils do. and when i pull the battery its lukewarm, much cooler than the shell. so the battery itself doesnt appear to be inherently overheating, just warm from the warmth of the shell... also just threw on my omega with a dual dragon at .4 on it, same exact results, for you super sub haters. thats where i stand on it.
No problem... pm me for my address. ;-)
Tell ya' what... I'll make you a deal. You go out and spend $30 bucks minimum on a DMM, post the receipt... and you can send me your mod, I'll fix it and send it back... and all you pay for is shipping both ways.
You are hurting my head.
Stop assuming you know what you are doing. Clearly you do not and I would hate to see you hurt.
You have a Resistive block plain and simple. Current cannot pass cleanly through non-conductive materials. Can't can't can't End of story.
Atomizer built and confirmed good - check
Mod center pin contacting Atty - Check
Mod Battery adj pin set to keep battery snug in mod?????
ALL THREADING free of Foreign materials??????
Switch disassembled and verified CLEAN and UN-DAMAGED?????
Hell, just put the thing in a drawer for later in life.
Agree ^^^^^
The sides heating on your mod is a problem usually due to a poor connection in the threaded area there is resistance there so that's why it gets hot button heating translates to the same problem battery should always be snug not just when the unit fires.
Wonder if op forgot to put (common slang name for posterior) infront of his user name?
hat3crew, you've been given some great advice so far. Listen to these guys, they're on your side. Any time your mod gets hot while vaping you've got a problem you need to fix.
At 0.1 ohms your VTC4 will warm up during use. You're into the burst spec at 42 amps with a freshly charged battery. Even pushing 30A these batteries heat up. If the mod didn't heat up too you might be OK, but with that going on too, you're just asking for that battery to vent.
Vape safe man
At 0.1 ohms your VTC4 will warm up during use. You're into the burst spec at 42 amps with a freshly charged battery. Even pushing 30A these batteries heat up. If the mod didn't heat up too you might be OK, but with that going on too, you're just asking for that battery to vent.
Vape safe man
I have the same setup with the Caravela and Stillare, I don't have this problem. I never build that low either though. Be careful man, going that low can be very dangerous. Keep close tabs on your batteries.
Wasnt there another kid on here in the past that built down in the .1 range? If im remembering right that was an adventure as well. But seriously, that low of an ohm load, you are an accident waiting to happen, just for ....s and giggles or not. Do not push those batteries that hard. If you want to safely super super subohm get some good 26650s and a 26650 mod. At least those batteries will handle the amp draw. If the mod is getting hot and the switch as well, something isnt right. For someone that "knows what they are doing", you should know this. A 100% disassembly and thorough cleaning should be top of your list. Polish all threads, remove any coatings over the threads and connection points, contacts clean and shiny...but you seem like you know these things. Our advise has been given. Take or leave it. Its your body and health at the end of the day. You have to feel the pain, the rest of us just have to suffer government regulation from it.
Any time a switch gets hot, there is a problem that you CAN'T live with. So at least you came here looking for answers, and that's a good thing.
The Caravela is my favorite PV, so maybe I can help.
There is only one real difference between the two that you have, and that is anodized threads on your black one.
So now that we know how to fix the mod, lets talk about the other problem.
ANYONE that would test out a new mod with a 0.1 ohm coil has no business using a mechanical mod .... yet!
A 0.1 ohm coil leaves no room for error, and new out of the box mods often have errors.
The Caravela is my favorite PV, so maybe I can help.
There is only one real difference between the two that you have, and that is anodized threads on your black one.
So now that we know how to fix the mod, lets talk about the other problem.
ANYONE that would test out a new mod with a 0.1 ohm coil has no business using a mechanical mod .... yet!
A 0.1 ohm coil leaves no room for error, and new out of the box mods often have errors.
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Would be nice to know what the resistance of the path through the device is, with the button pushed. Sounds like it will be a lot higher than it should. Check that first?
Me also. I know this issue well it was happening to me on a magneto mod with a .2 build. I tried everything to get that unit rite in the end I sized it to the battery I wanted to use(VTC5) and I Tig welded the telescoping barrel section together, tried the unit after checking resistance and now I have a very nice magneto that hits like a truck, and no longer heating up. I probably could have used a copper foil on the threads of that section and got a better connection, but I don't like rigging stuff in that way all bandaids eventually fall off.
wayell then, alright, let me just come out and apologize, I've been working ....ty schedules at work and its had me a little heated lately. But I am taking all the advice in. I've been testing it out with a .4 on my omega, put myself in the safer zone, still heating up. I'm going to try to polish off the threads, at work I was looking at the other mods, and I noticed with the nemesises.... nemesi... Nemesis clones we just got in, we were testing them making sure they were working properly, the Copper, SS, and Blue ones fired fine, but the Black one was coated straight over the threads, and it acted just like my caravela, so everything you guys are saying definitely checks out, just wanted to give my formal apology, I feel like I know a lot from the business perspective, but the many year hobbiests on this forum I'm sure know more about mechs.
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