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Get it!!!
I wouldn't even consider, just get one. you wont be sorry.. awesome pv.. One of the best switches and hits you are going to find for 99.00....
If you "buff" the pin Wolf, take a piece of your 1200 grit sandpaper, fold it into a little strip, wrap it or "pinch" it around the pin. Then with your other hand turn the pin in the sandpaper rather than sand up and down the length. Probably doesn't make a difference but that way you keep the pin more or less perfectly round. It doesn't take as much as you would expect to take the burrs off the pin.
Laklar I had the same happen to me.
I bought one used (one week) from a forum member.
Got it in the mail and it was loose. I took it apart to clean/reseat it.
I missed the first time and screwed the floating pin. Same thing, chewed up the pin a bit.
Altsmoke, do you folks make/sell replacement rods?
I bought one used (one week) from a forum member.
Got it in the mail and it was loose. I took it apart to clean/reseat it.
I missed the first time and screwed the floating pin. Same thing, chewed up the pin a bit.
Altsmoke, do you folks make/sell replacement rods?
I bet they will now...LOL
Mine was not working with certain atty's/cartos but the same atty's cartos worked on my SB.
I was just about ready to send it back but decided to take it apart and take a look see.
While taking it apart I noticed that 2 of the set screws were almost falling out (Not Tight).
Got it apart looked like everything was in tact.
Took me three times to get it to go back together and seat right.I was very gentle with the screws after seeing pics of the op's pin.
Once back together the Right way and all the screws snugged down its working like a champ.
I'll bet that loose set screws were the op's original problem as well as mine. Mine just didn't make it all the way off. Im so happy I saved mine...
Check your screws as soon as you get the Pv just to dbl check that they are snug and vape away !
Mine was not working with certain atty's/cartos but the same atty's cartos worked on my SB.
I was just about ready to send it back but decided to take it apart and take a look see.
While taking it apart I noticed that 2 of the set screws were almost falling out (Not Tight).
Got it apart looked like everything was in tact.
Took me three times to get it to go back together and seat right.I was very gentle with the screws after seeing pics of the op's pin.
Once back together the Right way and all the screws snugged down its working like a champ.
I'll bet that loose set screws were the op's original problem as well as mine. Mine just didn't make it all the way off. Im so happy I saved mine...
Check your screws as soon as you get the Pv just to dbl check that they are snug and vape away !
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I did also have to sand down the housing for the floating pin. The set screws did a little marring of the top end, and I had trouble installing it... like 1/2 hours worth of trouble. Once I sanded it, it seemed to set in nicer... just not perfect.
I can see this will be an issue, so I'm not going to take it apart if I can help it.
I can see this will be an issue, so I'm not going to take it apart if I can help it.
Just as a tip, if you watched the How to video. If you are turning the set screw more than half a turn, something is not right. The contact ha less than .005in clearance.... there is a reason for this. Everything on the OMEGA was meant to be EXACTLY as it is. When each unit is built all three set screws are torqued down and will not come loose. If you bought your OMEGA second hand, you never know what was done to it.
Translation: I can't believe these hacks are carving up my precision creation!
I know you were kidding there, because all I did was try to reseat it when I got it. Also wasn't near any internet to watch the video as I did it. One slight error in seating that floating contact/housing and it's all over.
Suggestion: make the contact pin and bushing for it in steel? Or is it already? Feels like aluminum. Seems a pretty soft metal to be chewed up by the hex screws that easy. I understand the tolerances needed and the reasoning... what if the contact pin were just a few millimeters longer?
I'm not knocking the Omega at all. Man, I love this thing. Vaping on it all day on one battery with cartos and it's great. It's hard to put this thing down. lol.
I had your video fired up and paused before I touched it with the allen wrench...LOL
Mine Was Brand New
Mine was not "Torqued"
Actually upon finding out that 2 of the 3 screws were loose gave them approx 4-5 turns till they touched the pin ?
As perfect as your craftsmanship and your service is,I am sure that maybe a few screws could be missed and I forgive you.
Mine Was Brand New
Mine was not "Torqued"
Actually upon finding out that 2 of the 3 screws were loose gave them approx 4-5 turns till they touched the pin ?
As perfect as your craftsmanship and your service is,I am sure that maybe a few screws could be missed and I forgive you.
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lol, absolutely
Here is how mine occurred. I had planned to take mine apart from the beginning but didn't get to it right away. But you know, it came with an allen wrench right there in the package... so I figured I'd just make sure the screws were snug/tight (ok, more tight than snug) as soon as it came out of the box. That probably put a bit more of a burr on the cylinder. Then when I took it apart I loosened the screws 1/2 turn and it came part way and then caught. So I loosened them just a bit more and it caught, so I backed them almost all the way out and it still caught but with some wiggling and a bit of force the top came off. Ok, didn't think anything about it and went about cleaning, scuffing the spring, noalox, etc. even though it was almost new and completely clean anyway. Then when I reassembled I guess the cylinder didn't go in (caught in the other direction) and when I turned in the screws they went all the way to the pin -- heh, I had backed them all the way out in about 3 steps before so there was no way to tell they were going a lot further in than they had come out... So that didn't work and I took it all apart again and drank a beer while I just stared at it and figured out what had happened.
I was surprised at how soft the metal was when knocking off the burrs... but that made sense because I knew that Chad had probably put in days of design picking just the right material (unobtanium) for the perfect blend between durability and electrical conductivity. (note: stainless isn't very conductive. I think titanium is, but the world is running out of submarine noses.)
But I am supposed to be perfectI had your video fired up and paused before I touched it with the allen wrench...LOL
Mine Was Brand New
Mine was not "Torqued"
Actually upon finding out that 2 of the 3 screws were loose gave them approx 4-5 turns till they touched the pin ?
As perfect as your craftsmanship and your service is,I am sure that maybe a few screws could be missed and I forgive you.
. It is possible that it happend that way, and I appologize. I appreciate you watching the video before taking it apart. It really is simple once you are familiar with it
The steel does not conduct any current..... It is tool steel. The conductor of ground is infact the springlol, absolutely
Here is how mine occurred. I had planned to take mine apart from the beginning but didn't get to it right away. But you know, it came with an allen wrench right there in the package... so I figured I'd just make sure the screws were snug/tight (ok, more tight than snug) as soon as it came out of the box. That probably put a bit more of a burr on the cylinder. Then when I took it apart I loosened the screws 1/2 turn and it came part way and then caught. So I loosened them just a bit more and it caught, so I backed them almost all the way out and it still caught but with some wiggling and a bit of force the top came off. Ok, didn't think anything about it and went about cleaning, scuffing the spring, noalox, etc. even though it was almost new and completely clean anyway. Then when I reassembled I guess the cylinder didn't go in (caught in the other direction) and when I turned in the screws they went all the way to the pin -- heh, I had backed them all the way out in about 3 steps before so there was no way to tell they were going a lot further in than they had come out... So that didn't work and I took it all apart again and drank a beer while I just stared at it and figured out what had happened.
I was surprised at how soft the metal was when knocking off the burrs... but that made sense because I knew that Chad had probably put in days of design picking just the right material (unobtanium) for the perfect blend between durability and electrical conductivity. (note: stainless isn't very conductive. I think titanium is, but the world is running out of submarine noses.)
At 5:45 in the video I mention adjusting the contact for different atomizers, I should have put more emphasis on that. It does not need to be taken apart to adjust the post for a (tall/short) atomizer post.
Is there a trick to getting the black plastic ring to stay in the cap? It keeps falling out of my OMeGa since I did the cleaning.
It is loose like that to aid when disassembling, I plan to make them a few thousanths larger in diameter for future units. You could use a piece of tape around the radius of the bushing to make it a bit larger. I would not recommend anything permanent in case you need to clean it again
The steel does not conduct any current..... It is tool steel. The conductor of ground is infact the spring
No, I was speaking of the positive contact post. The "floating" one. The one that the set screws will contact (eventually) if the cylinder it "floats" in is not seated in the top when reassembling.
I think that's the only part you didn't cover well in the video.
1) show a closeup of the "floating" contact pin in the collar it "floats" in. Then people can see which end it goes back into if they get curious and pull it out and forget...
2) show a closeup of how the collar (with the floating contact pin in it) should go into and seat in the top when reassembling. It can be a little tricky especially since it may have burrs on it from the set screws when it was together before disassembly. And secondly because it's a little difficult for those of us with fat fingers to get it back in it's place.
That's how the "accidents" happened.
You go to push the floating pin/collar assembly into the top,
The (possible) burr on the collar keeps it from dropping into the top and seating.
You take your fat finger to push it in and that pushes the contact pin to the bottom of the top and helps square up the collar. If you screw the screws in far enough they're going to contact the pin. (it's easier to screw it up if you don't see so well too).
Is it a design flaw? Nope. It is human error (user error). There is no blame, just sayin', maybe sell the replacement contact pin and bushing for it?
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