The coils are cheap enough I've been just buying them and tossing them, but a friend with a similar kanger tank system told me I can use cotton wicks with the Triton coils. Anyone ever try it? Does it need to be a certain size?
Other wicks wth the coils?
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If you can figure out a way to replace the main wick without destroying the coil, let us know. 
If you can figure out a way to replace the main wick without destroying the coil, let us know.
you pull out the wick and place it back in?
The top (flavor) wick is easily replace with wicking material of your choice.
However, the main coil wick... the coil is usually wrapped too tighly around and the wire is thin and most likely will break if you attempt to pull the wick out.
However, the main coil wick... the coil is usually wrapped too tighly around and the wire is thin and most likely will break if you attempt to pull the wick out.
isn't the the mythical strands of the giant spider from the island of Crete that devours mere mortals in a rage brought from betrayals of Olynmpic gods? or perhaps the very golden sheen strands of fiber torn from the Golden fleece that proclaimed kings of Mycinae and Mesopotamia?
The old wick can be removed from the coil, you just need to tug a bit of it gently from both sides.Assuming the silica wick is older and brittle it comes out in strands. Some vapers are using cotton to rewick inside the coil, and it would seem to be the only way, as you use thinner cotton when dry and it expands when wet. Here's a tip I got - http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...meter-kanger-t2-silica-wick.html#post11113449
I'm going to keep my old heads for future recoiling and/or rewicking, but I can't kill them yet. I might try this with cotton at some point myself, but I'm pretty happy with silica for now.
I'm going to keep my old heads for future recoiling and/or rewicking, but I can't kill them yet. I might try this with cotton at some point myself, but I'm pretty happy with silica for now.
Which wick's on first? This wick or the other? I still laugh at your comment to me (because I thought u guys were talking about "the other wick") to just pull the metal piece off and pull down the flavor wick because I was trying to thread it thru.
Mech mods, obviously, will NEVER be in my future since I can't even figure out the easiest way to get a flavor wick back into a Triton tank
I've tried and although can't tell you how to do it as my attempt was a complete failure, I can tell you what you'll need...
1) Magnifying glass
2) Steady hands
3) Lots of patience
1) Magnifying glass
2) Steady hands
3) Lots of patience
Hmmm...looks like I have something to try tonight. I'm thinking my new super-sharp paring knife might get a test-run...
Hmmm, well, I just got some cotton into a Triton coil. It works. It's been about an hour, and it hasn't been too bad. It's a little leaky, but I think with practice, it could get better. I was able to do a dry burn (a few short ones), rinsed it out, and put in a cotton wick for the coil, and another, slightly larger "flavor wick."
I didn't have any difficulty getting the original wicks out.
As it stands right now, its not an improvement. Maybe it could be with a few more tries, but it's nice to know it's possible, just in case you get into a pinch.
I also took apart another head entirely, and after one look at the rubber stopper in there, I thought, "I'd rather spend the $2.50." I couldn't get the rubber part out without tearing it, and I haven't the slightest idea how I could get it back in without destroying a homemade coil. On the plus side, I will confirm that the wire is 30 gauge...for you masochists.
I didn't have any difficulty getting the original wicks out.
As it stands right now, its not an improvement. Maybe it could be with a few more tries, but it's nice to know it's possible, just in case you get into a pinch.
I also took apart another head entirely, and after one look at the rubber stopper in there, I thought, "I'd rather spend the $2.50." I couldn't get the rubber part out without tearing it, and I haven't the slightest idea how I could get it back in without destroying a homemade coil. On the plus side, I will confirm that the wire is 30 gauge...for you masochists.
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Who would have thought that switching from smoking would ignite the frugal tinkerer in so many of us!
It reminds me of the Popular Mechanics magazines I read growing up in the 60's.
It reminds me of the Popular Mechanics magazines I read growing up in the 60's.
you mean the magazine of LIES?!? whar's my flying cars!!!! colonies on distant worlds!!!! they promised me the future by 1996! here it is! more than...i'm assuming 10 years..later (i'm not good with time) and i still have to lift my spoon with own hand to eat cereal! MY OWN HAND!!
Hope this is useful for somebody...
I've been mixing my own DIY e-liquids, and seeing that I use a Halo Triton, I've been washing my tanks and coil assemblies an awful lot. (Note to self - Get an MVP 2 and an RDA) All of that washing and drying takes its toll on the wicks. They soon get badly frayed and seem to block the air hole, resulting in a much tighter draw.
The metal coils seemed fine, and it seemed a shame to discard a perfectly good coil, just because the wick was worn out.
There are two wicks in the Triton heads. Both are 2mm silica. I bought about 3 feet of 2mm silica wick from my local vape shop, but lotsa online retailers sell it too. It's cheap.
Replacing both wicks makes the coil operate and taste like new.
The top wick is not threaded through the actual coil, and is usually called the "flavor wick". This is rather loose and it can fall out when cleaning, but it's pretty easy to replace. Unscrew the coil assembly, remove the silicon cap, and the flavor wick practically falls out. The silicon cap is the only thing holding it to the coil assembly.
The bottom wick is actually threaded through the coil. I've never tried to pull this out while wet* (with either e-liquid or water), but I imagine that would be rather difficult. A dry wick comes out easily with no damage to the coil whatsoever.
I cut a piece of new wick the same length as the one I removed. I haven't bothered measuring it - the length doesn't seem to be critical when you're keeping the e-liquid level between 2.0 and 2.4 mL.
Cut a square of 1/2" teflon tape, and roll it around one end of the new wick. You don't want the end of the wick to be at the very edge of the tape square - you want to pull the wick away from the edge about 1/16" - 1/8". When you roll this between your fingers, you'll have a sharp point of just tape. Roll it tightly. It looks like a "wick condom", complete with a reservoir tip.
Let me tell ya, this threads through the tiny coil with no problem. The teflon acts like a lube, and it slides right in**.
Pull off the condom, and throw it in the trash***.
I usually don't need the teflon tape to replace the flavor wick, but there's no reason why the same method couldn't be used.
I've rewicked 6 coils in a row using this method, without fail.
* That's what she said.
** That's what she said.
*** Do I have to spell it out for you?
I've been mixing my own DIY e-liquids, and seeing that I use a Halo Triton, I've been washing my tanks and coil assemblies an awful lot. (Note to self - Get an MVP 2 and an RDA) All of that washing and drying takes its toll on the wicks. They soon get badly frayed and seem to block the air hole, resulting in a much tighter draw.
The metal coils seemed fine, and it seemed a shame to discard a perfectly good coil, just because the wick was worn out.
There are two wicks in the Triton heads. Both are 2mm silica. I bought about 3 feet of 2mm silica wick from my local vape shop, but lotsa online retailers sell it too. It's cheap.
Replacing both wicks makes the coil operate and taste like new.
The top wick is not threaded through the actual coil, and is usually called the "flavor wick". This is rather loose and it can fall out when cleaning, but it's pretty easy to replace. Unscrew the coil assembly, remove the silicon cap, and the flavor wick practically falls out. The silicon cap is the only thing holding it to the coil assembly.
The bottom wick is actually threaded through the coil. I've never tried to pull this out while wet* (with either e-liquid or water), but I imagine that would be rather difficult. A dry wick comes out easily with no damage to the coil whatsoever.
I cut a piece of new wick the same length as the one I removed. I haven't bothered measuring it - the length doesn't seem to be critical when you're keeping the e-liquid level between 2.0 and 2.4 mL.
Cut a square of 1/2" teflon tape, and roll it around one end of the new wick. You don't want the end of the wick to be at the very edge of the tape square - you want to pull the wick away from the edge about 1/16" - 1/8". When you roll this between your fingers, you'll have a sharp point of just tape. Roll it tightly. It looks like a "wick condom", complete with a reservoir tip.
Let me tell ya, this threads through the tiny coil with no problem. The teflon acts like a lube, and it slides right in**.
Pull off the condom, and throw it in the trash***.
I usually don't need the teflon tape to replace the flavor wick, but there's no reason why the same method couldn't be used.
I've rewicked 6 coils in a row using this method, without fail.
* That's what she said.
** That's what she said.
*** Do I have to spell it out for you?
I was just pulling out the white part (what i thought was the wick) and putting it back in. Its not the same as a brand new tank but the vaping has been decent I didnt know there were all these other components to it.
I have pulled out the coil wick many times to dry burn the coil. It's relativly easy to "screw" the coil wick back into the coil. After I cleaned both wicks, I go ahead and grab the end of the coil wick between my thumb and my index finger as far forward as possible and roll it to make the tip/end nice and pointy and screw it into the coil like a screw while it's still wet. This technique works everytime like a charm for me, and without messing up the wick. The most important thing is that the wick is still wet or at least moist, and keep screwing until it's through. And never turn the wick against its strands, or the strands, and fibers open up and you have a frayed wick.
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