Ovale V8 repair

[wayner123]

I hope this is the proper section to post this. Hopefully someone can help a noob out.

My problem is shown in the picture below:

I tried to remedy this problem by splicing that tiny yellow wire with a bit larger copper stranded wire and then soldering the new wire to the post. It's all hooked up now, but I get a 'F1' reading when I try to power it on now. I know the best method would be to just remove the yellow wire completely and re-solder a new connection at the board, but there is a good amount of expoxy/glue at the connection. Furthermore, I don't even know where to get single core copper wire that small. Please let me know what you guys would recommend I should do. I know it's a weird request.

Here is an overall picture of the guts:

 

[Mike36609]

I've never used one of these devices, much less tried to repair one, so I don't know how much good I can do for you.

Some questions for you...

What was your original problem, why did you take this apart in the first place? Were you getting an error code before opening the case? If so what was the code, and do the instructions explain this code?

What is an F1 code supposed tell you according to the instruction manual, if anything? Open circuit, or shorted atomizer or carto perhaps? This would be key in diagnosing the problem.

Are you sure you didn't damage any other wires, connections or components when opening the case, and/or making repairs?

I can tell you from a quick observation of the first photo that the black wire going to the connector is an obvious case of a cold solder joint, i.e., a bad solder joint at the connector. I realize it likely came this way from the factory but this potentially is the problem. Or, was the original problem you had with the device, even if it worked correctly for some time period.

Also, the solder joint for the black wire on the connector looks like a big blob of solder, are you sure it is not making contact with the center post on the connector after you made your repairs?

If all of this has been of no help, I hope someone else can provide a little better insight to the problem. Good luck!

 

[WillyB]

Did you check for continuity (or lack of)?

I see no reason to have to replace the entire wire, nor does the new section have to be so thin.

 

[wayner123]

I've never used one of these devices, much less tried to repair one, so I don't know how much good I can do for you.

Some questions for you...

What was your original problem, why did you take this apart in the first place? Were you getting an error code before opening the case? If so what was the code, and do the instructions explain this code? The problem was when I took removed the 510 adapter that came on the device, the center post fell out. So then I realized that something was up. There was no code, and the instructions do not say anything about the different codes.

What is an F1 code supposed tell you according to the instruction manual, if anything? Open circuit, or shorted atomizer or carto perhaps? This would be key in diagnosing the problem. see above

Are you sure you didn't damage any other wires, connections or components when opening the case, and/or making repairs? Yes, I was very careful and everything else was in place.

I can tell you from a quick observation of the first photo that the black wire going to the connector is an obvious case of a cold solder joint, i.e., a bad solder joint at the connector. I realize it likely came this way from the factory but this potentially is the problem. Or, was the original problem you had with the device, even if it worked correctly for some time period. I'll look at this more closely

Also, the solder joint for the black wire on the connector looks like a big blob of solder, are you sure it is not making contact with the center post on the connector after you made your repairs? Yes, the center post does not extend down that far.

If all of this has been of no help, I hope someone else can provide a little better insight to the problem. Good luck!

responses in red

 

[Mike36609]

As WillyB mentioned above make sure of continuity on all of the wires, especially to, and thru, the connecter, as well as to the PC board. Also verify that the center pin is not shorting to the outside of the connector after it is reinstalled. And, I would definitely resolder the black wire to the connector; you can try adding a touch of flux and sweating the joint, or just completely redo the solder job altogether. (Might be a good idea to look at all of the other solder joints as well.)

The more I see of these inexpensive box mods, including my VV Gripper, the more I am convinced that building your own mod is the better course to pursue.

Hope you get it working.