Painting a Copper Mech. ?

[Kracker]

I have a black copper Stingray that's about a month old and the black coating they have on this thing is like a cheap fingernail polish. It gets an air bubble under it then just wipes right off. I've seen where people have stripped them down to the copper but I got it because it was black. I was going to cover the threads with tape or wax then put some fingernail polish over the logo so I can wipe it off when finished to expose the copper. I never painted copper before, do I need to primer it then clear coat it and will that effect how it performs ?

At first I thought it was because it was a cheap $50.00 clone but see it's just as bad with the authentics. Man, I'd be all kinds of .... hurt if this happened to a $240.00 mod !! I will say after I got the switch butter smoothe I do like it enough to where it has me thinking about the authentic black Stingray X.


THANKS for any help

 

[porkchopbun]

Researching the answer myself, same thing happen to my hcigar Black Stingray....top tube paint paint chip off and then started to peel away...
I might use paint remover, clean it up and put on Carbon Fiber wrap from 3M...not a j-wrap...J-Wrap is a Carbon Fiber like design etc...not sure how I'm going to keep the Stingray logo on the bottom tube...

I heard the same thing about the authentic too...

 

[Mrez]

Researching the answer myself, same thing happen to my HCigar Black Stingray....top tube paint paint chip off and then started to peel away...
I might use paint remover, clean it up and put on Carbon Fiber wrap from 3M...not a j-wrap...J-Wrap is a Carbon Fiber like design etc...not sure how I'm going to keep the Stingray logo on the bottom tube...

I heard the same thing about the authentic too...

Let us know how the paint remover thing works out. I got an Hcigar black stingray X a few weeks back and some parts of the black have started wearing away. I was kinda regretting getting the black as most of my toppers are stainless steel now, so if there is a good way to remove the black paint, I'm totally on it.

 

[porkchopbun]

Let us know how the paint remover thing works out. I got an Hcigar black stingray X a few weeks back and some parts of the black have started wearing away. I was kinda regretting getting the black as most of my toppers are stainless steel now, so if there is a good way to remove the black paint, I'm totally on it.

Looks like another forum member did it already...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/597208-black-copper-stingray-paint-removal.html

 

[Paradicio]

Not sure about painting it, if you want to keep the black, however I will say this....don't paint the threads or you'll have all kinds of voltage drop that you don't want.

 

[MrPlink]

Go to brownells.com

Order a spray can of Alumahyde 2 (make sure it is 2).

Remove as much original finish as possible.

Lightly score the surface you intend to paint with some fine sand paper. The rough texture will make the paint adhere to the surface better. Don't worry if the surface looks all scratched up, once painted it will look smooth as glass.

Tape off anything you don't want to be painted.

Completely clean and de-grease. I like to use pure denatured alcohol. Cheap and effective and the fumes aren't horribly caustic and noxious.

Follow the application instructions on the can. 2 coats should be perfect. You can do more, but your application technique needs to be really good otherwise you risk runs and all sorts of other undesirable effects.

As per the instructions it really is best to let it air cure for a whole 7 days.
You can slightly speed up the process by oven baking for a couple hours at approx 150 degrees, but you still need to wait roughly a week prior to handling (oven curing is not listed on the directions, but I confirmed this technique with an engineer that works for the paint manufacturer )

If you did your part it will look great and be INCREDIBLY durable for paint.

There are very few paint finishes that are more durable than Alumahyde2, but none of them come in spray can form AND require a lot of other very expensive equipment to use.

Now be aware, it is just paint we are talking about. No paint is completely impervious to all forms of damage and abuse.
But Alumahyde2 was designed to stand up to solvents typically used in firearm cleaning, it will have no issue standing up to sweaty hands and leaky attys.

 

[Kracker]

thanks for the info !!

 

[EvilGenius]

hey i noticed that i have 3 tiny bubbles on my copper mech mod and im wondering if its also air bubbles

diablo by el diablo, i love the thing but now im concerned

thanks

 

[duc916]

I've always wanted to try Plasti-Dip.

 

[Froth]

I've always wanted to try Plasti-Dip.

I've used dozens of cans of Plastidip, the one application it's not particularly good for is something that is handled every day as it will wear off of an edge and as soon as that happens it will start to roll up and come off completely. It's a fantastic product, but a mechanical mod or anything you handle that much every day would be a bad application for it. One of the features that is spoken about often is the ease of removal once it has been applied and dried, something that is easy to remove generally doesn't have a ton of durability to begin with.