Panzer Button Getting Hot?

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CTVayper222

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Apr 21, 2014
23
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Connecticut
Okay so I bought a panzer last week with a Subtank. I enjoyed it so much that the next day I bought an authentic Mutation X (Amazing rda - thing blows clouds!) and then 2 days later I bought the Darkhorse clone; another amazing rda (Even more airflow options:D). So I built probably my 5th coil ever on it today as one of the leads from my previous build came undone with the post hole screws being not exactly broken in yet. Came in at .3 with a 26 gauge kanthal - 5 wrap dual set up around a 2mm screwdriver. http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u426/karm4sa...../cfbb011b-999c-423d-a49f-dde27a4e249b_zpsd177e966.jpg

She chucks the vapor! http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u426/karm4sa...../ff1f14f0-483f-4f30-ac7c-d3240547594c_zps43500152.png I am extremely happy with this build and the Charlie Noble Custard! mmmmmm!

Okay so HERE's the problem.

I was just vaping away, you know blowing clouds and ...., and I admit I was probably chain vaping, but I took a few large 3-5 second hits and eventually I noticed it wasn't firing consistently as well. I'd get a real good hit and then I wouldn't get as much vapor and it didn't seem to be as powerful so I figured the battery was getting a little low. I held the button again to make sure... probably like 5 seconds or so... and I felt the button get warm to hot. It freaked me out so obviously let off and pulled the battery and put it in my charger (Nitecore Intellicharger I2).

I'm new to mechs but have done extensive research (not just saying that - literally probably like 200 hours of videos and forums already) so of course my first thought was a possible short. Though I thought the actual mech would get warm and not just the button but who knows so I took off the darkhorse and put it on the ohm reader... .3 ohms.... tapped the coils to make sure no connections were off - no change in numbers at all. I looked at the bottom of the battery and there's a little circular mark from the firing pin (not from tightening the pins wrong - I always adjust my pins to the atty and battery as the panzer backs off on it's own from time to time).
http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u426/karm4sa...../3c2affdf-95dc-4cea-a4e5-a02bb1d17757_zps10a5797c.jpg

This made me even more worried (QUESTION 1: what causes these marks and is that a bad sign?)
So next thing I did was research just the buttons getting hot and people are saying its the spring and yada yada yada, or it's a short but it's not because I checked everything. Someone mentioned poor contact and all my pins looks fine (maybe a tiny dark spec or two on the top pin) but I cleaned everything anyway. There was definitely some buildup in the top/bottom threads and I took the whole switch apart and cleaned the threads and every spot I could get with q-tips. So everything is now clean and put back together, the mod is definitely cleaner now and I'm gonna charge both batteries since they are low, but I'm worried there is something wrong that I don't quite understand.

QUESTION 2: Could it be that the battery was low and me chain vaping it and holding it for a little while caused the battery to do some weird thing and cause the button to become hot? Like, is it stressing the battery to perform when the voltage is reduced? Because everyone I've talked with says the MXJO batteries are real good/safe and can be basically run until I'm not getting any vapor really (maybe this was that point?) I don't know what's going on but I just want to make sure I'm going to be safe before messing with it anymore - I'd like to try a few more flavors and attys before I blow up lmfao!

Please give me some input, thanks!:facepalm:
 

drunkenbatman

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Almost always, the button getting hot is a sign of a short or arcing. You already said you cleaned your switch well after this happened, which would have been what I'd said to do.

Another thing is your Panzer may not have the battery adjustment tightened enough -- or *something* is causing it not to get a proper connection. e.g., it could be you're doing it to where it's stopping the battery from rattling, but it isn't enough of a connection so you're getting arcing and scraping as you move it. It could be as simple as the switch not coming together as it should.

These are off the top off my head only to hopefully jig something in yours or someone who can help you better.

Either way, your current isn't flowing right and I'd lay off the low-ohm builds while you are sorting it.
 

Bunnykiller

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does your panzer have a spring or magnets? if its a spring and just the button got hot, take a look at your spring and see if it got discolored. Sometimes the button shaft wont touch the inner wall of the switch housing and all the current travels thru the spring making the button hot... this also happens on the Overdose ( basiically the same switch design) I went to a thicker spring ( thicker than the wire I use to make my coils with) to resolve the heating issues
 

CTVayper222

Full Member
Apr 21, 2014
23
9
Connecticut
Yeah the switch is indeed spring loaded and I guess I'll just tighten my battery in more then - always thought that if you tighten it even a tiny bit too much you can dent the contacts or the nipple which is obviously terrible... Idk maybe I'll bring it back to the shop or something. Also the spring is not dis colored at all.

And I know the build is hot but I'm into the clouds. First build ever was .5 next was two .4 builds and now I'm down to .3

Sad thing is... I'm going to go lower... A few people I know have run their MXJO batteries with a .08 build.... Not .8, point zero eight. Now I'm not that dumb lol but I wanna have a nice cloud build as the clouds are what keeps me away from the cigs.

Nobody answerd if the battery being low might cause it to fire better and worse every other time I hit the button - thus causing me to hold the button for an abnormally longer time and that may have caused the button to heat.

I appreciate the input guys and I encourage anyone who sees this to give some more input. Thanks again!
 

Susan~S

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And I know the build is hot but I'm into the clouds. First build ever was .5 next was two .4 builds and now I'm down to .3

Sad thing is... I'm going to go lower... A few people I know have run their MXJO batteries with a .08 build.... Not .8, point zero eight. Now I'm not that dumb lol but I wanna have a nice cloud build as the clouds are what keeps me away from the cigs.

There's a lot more to getting good clouds than lowering the ohm of your build. I would suggest you start looking into this. You may be able to find more information here or start going to some "cloud chasing events".
 
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GeorgeF

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Oct 2, 2014
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This sounds like just another piece of ammunition for the FDA and other regulatory powers to ban vaping and e-cigarettes in general.
You want to chase clouds? Learn to fly. You want that much vapor inhaled? Use a pressure cooker on a stove and inhale steam produce from the relief opening.

Damn, resistance of any kind is a short against the power source. The lower you go, the closer you get to a dead short.

Pushing the envelope of the batteries capacity is EXTREMLY DANGEROUS. How long can you hold an M-80 in your hand before it explodes?

What is the Wattage and Amperage of your current build/ battery set-up? What is the rated capacity in Amps of the switch and battery?

Although I don't chase clouds, I do have an understanding of ohm's law. Because even with my regulated devices, I want to know I am safe.
 

drunkenbatman

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Yeah the switch is indeed spring loaded and I guess I'll just tighten my battery in more then - always thought that if you tighten it even a tiny bit too much you can dent the contacts or the nipple which is obviously terrible... Idk maybe I'll bring it back to the shop or something. Also the spring is not dis colored at all.

You can deform the battery -- I am giving you ideas and things to look at, as is Bunnykiller. You need to be very, very careful in how this stuff goes together.

And I know the build is hot but I'm into the clouds. First build ever was .5 next was two .4 builds and now I'm down to .3

It isn't a hot build, where you're burning up ze juice. And it doesn't appear that you are stressing the batteries till they are warm, which is also bad. But you 100% have a current flow issue.

Whether it's the spring or switch or something else, you 100% have a current flow issue and I reiterate you should back off the ohms until you have it figured out.

Sad thing is... I'm going to go lower... A few people I know have run their MXJO batteries with a .08 build.... Not .8, point zero eight. Now I'm not that dumb lol but I wanna have a nice cloud build as the clouds are what keeps me away from the cigs.

It's your face. :/

Nobody answerd if the battery being low might cause it to fire better and worse every other time I hit the button - thus causing me to hold the button for an abnormally longer time and that may have caused the button to heat.

A mech outputs all of it's voltage, only stopped when it hits resistance. As it's voltage drops, it will put out less power. But that isn't what is causing the heat.
 

Bunnykiller

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Yeah the switch is indeed spring loaded and I guess I'll just tighten my battery in more then - always thought that if you tighten it even a tiny bit too much you can dent the contacts or the nipple which is obviously terrible... Idk maybe I'll bring it back to the shop or something. Also the spring is not dis colored at all.

And I know the build is hot but I'm into the clouds. First build ever was .5 next was two .4 builds and now I'm down to .3

Sad thing is... I'm going to go lower... A few people I know have run their MXJO batteries with a .08 build.... Not .8, point zero eight. Now I'm not that dumb lol but I wanna have a nice cloud build as the clouds are what keeps me away from the cigs.

Nobody answerd if the battery being low might cause it to fire better and worse every other time I hit the button - thus causing me to hold the button for an abnormally longer time and that may have caused the button to heat.

I appreciate the input guys and I encourage anyone who sees this to give some more input. Thanks again!

at low ohm builds, you shouldnt hold the button down for more than a couple of seconds anyway...
 

CTVayper222

Full Member
Apr 21, 2014
23
9
Connecticut
How is this a ammunition for the FDA lmfao? I appreciate all input, but this comment was just a shot in the dark. I have a very good understanding of ohms law and with my current build I'm only running half of the amperage of the battery so it's not stressing it at all. All I was asking is what caused a button to turn hot.

I cleaned all contact points since that is what is causing it. I even took it to a shop and had professionals look at my setup which they actually said looked really good. They confirmed there was no short and told me that since the panzer is a 5 piece device instead of a singular tube, gunk builds up in the threads of each piece causing a lesser connection. He had a high end mod that did the same thing and he just cleaned his device once a week and I will continue to do the same.
 
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retic1959

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    How is this a ammunition for the FDA lmfao? I appreciate all input, but this comment was just a shot in the dark. I have a very good understanding of ohms law and with my current build I'm only running half of the amperage of the battery so it's not stressing it at all. All I was asking is what caused a button to turn hot. I cleaned all contact points since that is what is causing it. I even took it to a shop and had professionals look at my setup which they actually said looked really good. They confirmed there was no short and told me that since the panzer is a 5 piece device instead of a singular tube, gunk builds up in the threads of each piece causing a lesser connection. He had a high end mod that did the same thing and he just cleaned his device once a week and I will continue to do the same.
    There are some anti-subohm types around that buy in to the hype , unfortunately some are willing to throw other vapers under the bus . I agree that it's a current flow issue , this site has the magnets for the Panzer , replacing the spring with magnets might help your issue . SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware.
     
    I heard that the Panzer isnt well suited for very low ohms such as .3, because the stainless steel makeup of the mod offers more resistance than the low resistance of the coil. Where theres more resistance (the mod), the electricity will tend to bunch up and not flow well and cause hot spots. You need to make sure your coil offers more resistance than your mod, or else it will be the mod heating up, and not your coil.
    I read somewhere that anything under .4 ohms on a stainless steel mod is not ideal.
     

    Thrasher

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    Have you tried any other batteries than the MXJO batteries? Maybe you got a pair of rewrapped batteries like cheap knock off batteries. are the wraps around your batteries in tact or did they shrink and tear in places?

    Mxjo are rewrapped batteries lol simce they wont release actual spec sheets noone knows whats inside they even use the same exact wrapper as AWT
     

    BeerGolfClouds

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    You're not running half the amperage of the battery, as you said. .3 ohm pulls 14 amps at a fresh charge of 4.2v. That's more likely closer to 3/4 of the cdr of your battery, assuming the mxjo is a rewrap of a 20a cell like most rewraps these days. Still safe enough if that's the case, but just had to throw that out there.

    Big clouds keep me off cigs too. My suggestion is to get yourself a 150w regulated mod, a couple 30a batteries like Sony (or rewrapped Sony) or Orbtronic, and have fun! My iPV3 will safely go down to .08 ohm, but it really shines and chucks major cloudage at .5 and up with twisted coils and doubling the wattage a mech can provide.
     

    kartoffelfaust

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    Double check your build. Screws back out. Wire changes shape after heat/cool cycles.

    Make sure all connections are snug - no battery rattle, solid contact with 510 on atomizer.

    Make sure all connections are clean (carbon deposits reduce conductivity).
    - positive pin
    - negative firing button
    - firing button assembly.

    I ran into this same problem, tested the button of my crappy mech clone with a multimeter, came out to a resistance of .25 - .3 due to the cheap spring material. I made a new spring out of heavier gauge copper that is in coax cable, reduced the resistance in the button down to nil (within the margin of error of my multimeter).

    If it heats up, stop using it until you fix it. Heat anywhere but the coils is the harbinger of sorrow.
     
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