Pass through that has no electronics at all, just a switch.

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RavenTai

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I am a bit new here not sure if this is the right spot,

I slapped this together today, the idea being infinite adjustment mains connected for vaping at home,

its a 1-16v power suply
an ego wall charger that i gutted for the USB port,
smoke Tech 5v 510 manual USB Passthrough.

works but one problem the smoketech pass through will not fire below 4.5 volts input, the LED in the back just flashes, it does not seam to care about high voltage been as high as 7 it keeps firing. also it is dropping a few tenths of a volt unloaded who knows how much loaded, i am thinking it has a power transistor inside?

What I was expecting was a wand with a mechanical switch, a 510 connector at one end and a cord out the other. I dont need any intelligence in the pass through I have that in the power suply,


is a "dumb" pass through made or do I have to make it myself?
 

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RavenTai

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Sure, most are dumb, just look for ones that don't have a battery on board as you don't need that.

That is what i figured so that is what I bought, its a smoke tech battery-less passthrough but for some reason its has some circuits it in watching voltage why I have no clue. :confused: it seams to be the only non battery passthrough that stores carry.



In the spirit of the modding forum, you really ought to make your own :)


I really should,

I am digging the power supply if not the pass through, adjustable to the hundredth of a volt and holds it dead steady under load.



Edit:
WOW asdaq you do great work



IMAG0810.jpg
 
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WillyB

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its a 1-16v power suply
an ego wall charger that i gutted for the USB port,
smoke Tech 5v 510 manual USB Passthrough.

works but one problem the smoketech pass through will not fire below 4.5 volts input, the LED in the back just flashes, it does not seam to care about high voltage been as high as 7 it keeps firing. also it is dropping a few tenths of a volt unloaded who knows how much loaded, i am thinking it has a power transistor inside?

What I was expecting was a wand with a mechanical switch, a 510 connector at one end and a cord out the other. I dont need any intelligence in the pass through I have that in the power suply,

is a "dumb" pass through made or do I have to make it myself?
Well that PT is made to work off of USB which is always 5V. That it "will not fire below 4.5 volts input" is no big deal, I assume you want lower vaping volts. But calling it a "5V" PT is a joke. The output, vaping voltage is going to also depend on how much current, AMPS are available.

Here is what one vendor says:

*Please note, this manual USB Passthrough does not contain a battery and requires approximately 1.5 amps from the USB power source.

In this case it's the 1.5A that will determine final vaping/loaded volts. 5V @ 1.5A will only give you 5V OUT with a 3.3Ω atty. It will actually be less due to the additional resistance the cord, connectors and PT electronics add, you need that 1.5A at the actual atty connector (I'll ignore that factor for now). Now if you had your power supply set for 5V @ 1.5A and used a 2Ω atty your actual vaping voltage will be 3V (again it will be a bit less). With a 2Ω atty if you wanted to vary the vaping voltage from 3 - 5V with the power supply set at 5V you would vary the amps from 1.5 - 2.5A. If you are dual coil fan you would need 3.3A to get 5V out. If you wanted say 4.5V DCC vaping you would set your power supply to 5V @ 2.8A. These are all theoretical numbers though that are not taking into consideration how many milliamps will get lost in the 'journey' to the atty.

You could use Ohm's Law to figure where you are gonna be and just factor in a ~10% current hit to get a reasonable vaping voltage estimate, i.e. 3A in will give you 2.7A at the atty.

Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator

Look at these numbers to demonstrate what goes in vs. out.

PT_comparison_-_2_.jpg


Voltage and ohms are measured, amps are calculated, all at the actual atty. Both examples are using the same 5V @ 2000mA (2A) adapter. The PT on the left is using a flimsy USB cable ofrom a mouse, the one on the right a USB cable with 22ga power wires. FWIW length of the cables also come into play. In the second example using a 1' USB extension cable I had laying around dropped the voltage to ~ 4.4V.

With your power supply you can easily tweak the amps to over come any resistance loss. You could set your power supply to 6V and by dialing in the amps have a vaping range of ~3- 6V, if that is what you want.

You should just build yourself a PT, it's a great first project and very simple.

My first mod.

PT_budget_3_.JPG


My pumper with the flimsy USB cable.

PT_fono.JPG


My latest in a sturdy 'Para'/Hammond box, with the good USB cable, eGo connector, and a micro LED.

PT_new.jpg


For those building PT's ask around any of your computer using friends, many will have modem/router power supplies just laying around and they are usually high quality, efficient switching types. I picked up a 2, 2.4, 2.5 and 3A just for the asking.

I tried just using the DC jacks and plugging into a cableless PT, but they quickly become too loose and they were always coming out unless I was careful, not my style.
 

RavenTai

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Willy Nice bottom feeding pass through! the strain relief on the cord is a nice touch.

your post got me to do some checking, taking amps and volts out at the power supply I calculated for apparent resistance of the whole assembly and compared that the the measured resistance of just the bare attomizer.

a measured 2.5 ohm clearomizer calculates to an apparent resistance is 3.4 ohms,
a measured 5 ohm attomizer works as a 6.63 ohm,

so I am getting an ohm to an ohm and a half of extra resistance in the passthrough, USB port and interconnecting wiring yea pretty pathetic. fortunately I have a dial to bump the input voltage and overcome the loss but defiantly needs improvement,

I think this smoke tech pass through is going to live in the car as a backup, always need backups,

so it looks like I am going to build a pass through, If I am goign to build an electrically solid passthough might as well address another problem while I am at it, when dripping the attomizer and drip tip get too hot, not only is the hot drip tip uncomfortable the hot atomizer does not seam to give as much flavor as when vaping from stone cold, it may be my imagination but a cold atomizer housing with a hot coil seams to get me the flavor I am looking for,

would it be worthwhile to try to build in some heat sink qualities into a passthrough? possibly a chunk of copper for its thermal properties? will enough heat pass through 510 threads to make a difference?

right now I am thinking a thick chuck of copper tapped for 510 that will press fit into a 6" or so section of copper pipe, a good switch some decent sized wires that go straight to my power supply without the USB middle man, thoughts?
 

WillyB

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a good switch some decent sized wires that go straight to my power supply without the USB middle man, thoughts?
That's actually how my first was made.

PT_2W.JPG


A 5.1V@2A power supply from a trashed modem, any loss was actually unmeasurable with my meters.

Your heat problem is interesting.

My last PT uses one of these.

conn_batt_ego_w.jpg


You'll note it has considerably more mass. Hell the collar is even finned .:) Seems it should drain off a bit more heat than the standard, thin brass ones.

If you think additional mass will help, you could add one of these.

thumbnail.asp


eGo Chrome Cone for the 3.5 mL Dual Coil Tank Cartromizer



As far as a drip tip, try the low tech approach.

1611239_4162964_trimmed.jpg


The rubber grip will give some distance, and dripping into them is a breeze.

Good Luck, waiting to see what you come up with.
 
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