power between different mods

[Kickingthesticks]

so i have a few different devices and noticed that with the same clearomizer and wattage setting im getting different hits between my devices. i vape at a 10 watt on my main one but the others one i have to up it to 15 watts the next is an ego type i have to max out the voltage and the battery blinks after like 5-7 drags. just wondering if the specs from manufactures are all different? or is every mod different. only asking incase my main mod craps out or i lose it/destroy it by accident and need to replace. thanks!

 

[Forkeh]

Yeah I've noticed a bit of variance between devices like that. I think it has a lot to do with conduction efficiency. You obviously have your main mod set up how you like it. But your other mods, maybe the connection/firing pin is pushed down a little too far? Or maybe it's a little dirty. Try pulling it up a bit and cleaning it. Or maybe that particular mod just won't make a good connection with the clearo you're using. Not all connection pins are set at the same height, and they can't always be adjusted. Some are set on a spring, and some are not. A clearo/tank/atty that makes a good connection in one mod, may not make a perfect connection in another. Also, different connection pins are made of different materials, that can effect efficiency. Battery power may also plan a role in your mods, although they're supposed to be regulated, so that 10 watts means 10 watts, even if one has a more powerful battery than the other, but *shrug*.

There's a lot of variables. Including how clean your coil is when you use it on your devices. A dirty coil will always under perform. And there's always the possibility that one of your devices is slightly off on the wattage reading. Quality control is pretty good these days, but it's always possible. Especially if you have a knock off, or cheaper brand.

 

[Rickajho]

Need to know what hardware you are actually using. For electronic gear there can be several ways they work/several different chipsets controlling what is going on. A cheap piece of gear relying on a bad implementation of PWM set to lower watts is going to be harsh and act like it's more powerful than a better device at the same setting. Things like that.

An eGo type battery that is blinking at you while drawing is probably being over driven and shutting itself down. Low budget eGo batteries can't handle low resistance devices. Push it too far and the protection will permanently blow, resulting in a non functional battery.

 

[Kickingthesticks]

Need to know what hardware you are actually using. For electronic gear there can be several ways they work/several different chipsets controlling what is going on. A cheap piece of gear relying on a bad implementation of PWM set to lower watts is going to be harsh and act like it's more powerful than a better device at the same setting. Things like that.

An eGo type battery that is blinking at you while drawing is probably being over driven and shutting itself down. Low budget eGo batteries can't handle low resistance devices. Push it too far and the protection will permanently blow, resulting in a non functional battery.

the coil on my tank is 1.2ohm do you think thats to low for an ego type? even when i used 1.8ohm it didnt blink but i noticed after a few hits the amount of vapor got thinner and thinner then i would let it cool for a few minutes and repeat, this was with a new battery i was one of the peeps that got suckered into vaporfi the mod is a rocket

 

[Rickajho]

Yeah 1.2 ohm is too low for a basic eGo battery. 1.8 ohm or higher is fine, so I'm not quite sure what is going on there. But if it's a poor knockoff with a much lower capacity battery inside there than they said it is supposed to be - that could explain it.

From the battery side of things, an eGo battery is regulated output - it should be giving you the same performance all along until the battery finally blinks and shuts itself off when it's time for a recharge.

Another possibility could be there is something not quite right with your tank/coil. It could be something as simple as a small amount of liquid on the battery center post. If you see any in there just wipe it out. (It's normal for some clearos to leak a drop or two out their center post on occasion.) Vaping liquids are actually non-conductive so if you get any on your eGo battery post or the 510 connector of your rocket it will interfere with performance.

 

[Bunnykiller]

consider the atty to be a trailer full of bricks, the different mods as vehicles with small to large motors ( battery size in mAh)... you pull the trailer up a hill with the small motored vehicle and it just cant do it but when you pull the trailer up the hill with the big truck it makes it easily... and to make things equal, all the engines were running at the same rpm ( watts)

its a semi kindasorta good analogy

 

[WillyZee]

I noticed this also @ 2.5 years ago ... problem solved

 

[djsvapour]

The problem with maxxing out VV eGos is the amp limit.

People often said "I run my Vision Spinner at 4.8v and it's not hitting hard"... that's because with a lower resistance atomizer the battery reaches it's own maximum long before the 4.8v on the dial.

and 1.2ohms is too low for most 3.7/4.2v non VV batteries too.

Even one of the most famous mods of all time (Innokin MVP version 2) could only hit the 11w theoretical maximum with a small range of atomizer resistances.

..and the original EVIC too.

... oh, and the iTaste VV and many, many others.

I know, it's a pain ....

 

[Frenchfry1942]

At the time of the MVP2, their weren't many atomizer resistances. The flexibility was still mech mods. The MVP2 was pretty much just a step up from the eGo-styles. One thing it did have was a consistent power signal and durability. The mechs were using rebuildable dripping atomizers, but then the Kayfun came along.

Getting a mod with a consitent signal will give a consistent power. The MVP2 brought a lot to the table for the future of vaping mods.