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No, but the thought has crossed my mind before. My reluctance to try this method is my fear of flooding the coil beyond easy repair.
I keep thinking about these words of wisdom: "Take your time and prime your new coils correctly. This is the most important step and relates directly with how well your coil will perform and how long it will last." I said these words back in my cartomizer days and they still apply today.
This is the best video tutorial that I've come across in how to properly prime and break in your new coils.
I keep thinking about these words of wisdom: "Take your time and prime your new coils correctly. This is the most important step and relates directly with how well your coil will perform and how long it will last." I said these words back in my cartomizer days and they still apply today.
This is the best video tutorial that I've come across in how to properly prime and break in your new coils.
Sounds like a bad idea. Besides "flooding" the coil, some designs should not have juice on the part of the coil where air flows.
OK,I think I'll shelve this idea, thanks for the replies.
A few drops of juice on the cotton is sufficient. I would not want juice all over the bottom threads. It serves no purpose other than to potentially leak into the mod’s 510. I’ve never heard anyone recommend doing this.
I recall that some people used to put their cartomizers upside down into their e-liquid to fill them, but I never went that route. Maybe that was what your remember reading?
Coil vaporization is similar too, but not as extreme as what happens in an internal combustion chamber.
The exact right combination of air, power and juice in exactly the correct manner yields optimum results. Liquid juice pools in the air flow are bad, but saturated wick is good.
I can't think why it would cause any harm. Soak, blow out the excess and wipe down the outside. Job jobbed. I've never soaked them for a long time but I have saturated them briefly, cleaned up and installed. A lot of these coils are incorrectly assembled in the factory so won't wick properly no matter how long they soak.
Coils like the Aspire Nautilus range of coils have an inner and outer sleeve and what appears to be four juice or wicking holes, feeding juice to the coil, but only two holes actually do that. The other two are blocked by the inner sleeve. Problem is some are incorrectly assembled and all four holes are blocked, or partially blocked by the inner sleeve. They wouldn't wick like that no matter how long they are left to soak. Then folks get told they didn't prime them properly.
I recently tested 10 Nautilus coils by sticking a pin in the holes, through the cotton. I found three of ten coils incorrectly assembled. All four holes blocked. Also the wicking material can be stupid tight in the things. Way to much packing. Nautilus coils are again bad for that but they aren't the only ones. those can sometimes be rescued by poking a thin gauge sewing needle through the cotton. Factory coils, even those well regarded, can be a real crap shoot.
Coils like the Aspire Nautilus range of coils have an inner and outer sleeve and what appears to be four juice or wicking holes, feeding juice to the coil, but only two holes actually do that. The other two are blocked by the inner sleeve. Problem is some are incorrectly assembled and all four holes are blocked, or partially blocked by the inner sleeve. They wouldn't wick like that no matter how long they are left to soak. Then folks get told they didn't prime them properly.
I recently tested 10 Nautilus coils by sticking a pin in the holes, through the cotton. I found three of ten coils incorrectly assembled. All four holes blocked. Also the wicking material can be stupid tight in the things. Way to much packing. Nautilus coils are again bad for that but they aren't the only ones. those can sometimes be rescued by poking a thin gauge sewing needle through the cotton. Factory coils, even those well regarded, can be a real crap shoot.
I just change coils let them sit for a minute or two and go. Don't want to make a job out of it.
Remember the covers on cartomizers? 1 method was to fill that cover and shove the 510 end of the cart into it to fill your cart....
A few drops on the cotton, assemble, fill, and let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes.
Then REDUCE your power. If normal is 20 watts, then start at 16. Take SHORT hits. Do not try to cloud the room with a brand new coil. Let it rest a bit before the next hit, don't want it getting too hot. Then you can up the power. I'd do about 5 hits, then up it to 18, 5 hits, then to the normal.
My problem? After getting it broken in, the juice tastes so great, I keep on hitting it. And suddenly I get a burnt hit, cause I vaped the tank dry!!! And the coil never seems to recover (Nautilus Mini)
I've done this more times than I care to admit.
Then REDUCE your power. If normal is 20 watts, then start at 16. Take SHORT hits. Do not try to cloud the room with a brand new coil. Let it rest a bit before the next hit, don't want it getting too hot. Then you can up the power. I'd do about 5 hits, then up it to 18, 5 hits, then to the normal.
My problem? After getting it broken in, the juice tastes so great, I keep on hitting it. And suddenly I get a burnt hit, cause I vaped the tank dry!!! And the coil never seems to recover (Nautilus Mini)
I've done this more times than I care to admit.
I prime the wick in the coil and in both juice channels on my K4 with more than just a couple of drops. I'll wait for the juice to start coming out of the bottom. Once this has happened from all four holes i'll screw on the base to the rest of the atomizer then fill the tank.
I have a theory that liquid behaves differently around different folks (as do most objects). I have never, ever even ONCE put a drop of juice down INSIDE the coil, for example. I just put the coil in, fill, wait 5-10 minutes and then a few non wattaged LONG draws and ever so slowly ramp up to my oh, 12 wattage range.
So maybe I need less priming then IDK. But I don't consider my coils submarines. The only dry hits I get are driving at night, forgetting to lock the wattage, then turning it up to 187 watts in the dark.
That has happened more than I'd care to admit like THREE times which is WAY more than you want because frankly, it's a serious driving hazard,
Right now my water output at the rental house is close to zero. Husband called and the water folks say it is not THEM.
He asked me to call when I got home to report back. He did not reply. I am, of course, assuming this means he is dead, and the water is grieving.
Of course I am on a med change but if he HAS died suddenly, I think I will be too TIRED to cope.
He's probably talking to the kid or something about logistics. He had better not DIE on ME OMG.
Anna
So maybe I need less priming then IDK. But I don't consider my coils submarines. The only dry hits I get are driving at night, forgetting to lock the wattage, then turning it up to 187 watts in the dark.
That has happened more than I'd care to admit like THREE times which is WAY more than you want because frankly, it's a serious driving hazard,
Right now my water output at the rental house is close to zero. Husband called and the water folks say it is not THEM.
He asked me to call when I got home to report back. He did not reply. I am, of course, assuming this means he is dead, and the water is grieving.
Of course I am on a med change but if he HAS died suddenly, I think I will be too TIRED to cope.
He's probably talking to the kid or something about logistics. He had better not DIE on ME OMG.
Anna
Tabac man, That explains some of my frustrations with my Aspire PockeX. It all makes sense now (as in it wasn't my fault) I was fanatic about priming, but sometimes still got issues with burnt cotton taste, and it seemed random.
Yeah it's not exactly uncommon. There's ways to spot it. After installing the coil, dry puff and notice what's happening. Some coils you can suck and suck like a madman and little to no juice is coming through the coil. Excessive sucking like that should, in theory, flood the coil. If it doesn't then there's a problem, and the problem is the coil not the user.
We blame the user though not the coil, especially a beginner. That has gave way to all the excessive priming techniches we read about, even on this thread. A decent coil doesn't need to be left sitting for half an hour or overnight, just to get a liquid through a piece of wick material.
The only factory coils I still use are the gs air coils which I use in a Istick Basic when riding my bike, because it's so small, and Aspire Nautilus in a 2s tank when away for the weekend. Both types of coil I always make holes in the wick with a very narrow gauge sewing needle.
That achieves two things. If the wick holes are blocked off I will know so I can discard it, and if the wick is packed too tight it will allow proper wicking.
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