Maybe try 70/30 - PG/VG respectively. I'm new to this and haven't had to deal with a burnt taste issue yet..but with my EVOD tank i find it to taste a bit different than the Protank II.
Pro tank issues
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Kanger BCC Troubleshooting:
If your clearo is flooding, the connections are not tight enough--or too tight. Keep reading.
If you're using clearos and getting a burnt taste it means that not enough juice is getting to the coil and you're basically vaping dry, hot air or inhaling smoke from the gunk that's burning off of your coil. Not a good thing. Another case of bad taste maybe the tank itself--some arrive covered with some kind of nasty grease; wash them with soap and water (just the tanks--soak the coils in PGA or vodka).
There are a few things you need to remember when using a T3 or an eVod or a ProTank--in addition to keeping your coils clean and free of gunk that accumulates on them.
1) Make sure that the atomizer coil is screwed into the base tightly--every time you refill; they often come not fully tightened from the manufacturer, or may have gotten loose through repeated refills.
2) Look at all the inner seals and gaskets to make sure they haven't become dislodged.
3) Make sure that you screw the tank into its base tightly. If it's not tight, it will leak.
4) When you screw your clearomizer into your battery, do not over tighten--screw it in only until it makes contact--no farther, or you may push the center post in too deep and cause all kinds of problems, including leaking. When the draw becomes tight or the taste and vapor production begin to diminish, replace the coil. This will happen sooner (even as soon as one day of heavy use) if you're using dark, viscous, or very sweet juices. The old coil can be cleaned and dry burned.
5) Make sure you're not getting any juice in the center tube when you're filling--this will cause your eVod to leak like a sieve. If some juice gets into the tube, close the top cap, place a tissue under your tank and blow gently through the clearomizer to get rid of any excess eliquid. Also, extra condensation inside the tank may, on some occasions, drip back into the center tube. Wipe your mouthpiece dry with a q-tip or a tissue when you refill (or more often when/if needed).
6) Take an occasional "primer puff" (a slow draw without activating the battery) when you vape. It helps move the juice into the coil chamber and removes any air bubbles that sometimes form in the tank and may cause gurgling or impede proper wicking.
7) Take slow long draws rather than sharp and quick ones like we used to do while smoking cigarettes. Do not over vape, chain vape, power vape. Let the juice travel to the coil between drags.
and last but not least
8) Do not remove any flavor wicks if you're experiencing any leaking or flooding. Those wicks are there for a reason. If you feel that you have to remove a wick because your eliquid is particularly thick, do it carefully--one strand at a time. If your liquid is super thin, you can thicken it with a bit of VG (USP--pharma grade) or you can add another strand of cotton to your flavor wick. Don't add too much or you'll choke your atomizer and get a dry hit.
It's also a good idea to wash the tank with warm water and a drop of dishwashing detergent prior to first use--some of them taste funny on occasion. Rinse well and dry. The atomizer coils may benefit from a quick soak in PGA or vodka if the priming fluid has an off taste, but I haven't had any problems with them--yet.
Also, make sure you're vaping at correct wattages; Kanger recommends 5.5-7.5 watts. Always start low and increase voltage only if necessary.
If your clearo is flooding, the connections are not tight enough--or too tight. Keep reading.
If you're using clearos and getting a burnt taste it means that not enough juice is getting to the coil and you're basically vaping dry, hot air or inhaling smoke from the gunk that's burning off of your coil. Not a good thing. Another case of bad taste maybe the tank itself--some arrive covered with some kind of nasty grease; wash them with soap and water (just the tanks--soak the coils in PGA or vodka).
There are a few things you need to remember when using a T3 or an eVod or a ProTank--in addition to keeping your coils clean and free of gunk that accumulates on them.
1) Make sure that the atomizer coil is screwed into the base tightly--every time you refill; they often come not fully tightened from the manufacturer, or may have gotten loose through repeated refills.
2) Look at all the inner seals and gaskets to make sure they haven't become dislodged.
3) Make sure that you screw the tank into its base tightly. If it's not tight, it will leak.
4) When you screw your clearomizer into your battery, do not over tighten--screw it in only until it makes contact--no farther, or you may push the center post in too deep and cause all kinds of problems, including leaking. When the draw becomes tight or the taste and vapor production begin to diminish, replace the coil. This will happen sooner (even as soon as one day of heavy use) if you're using dark, viscous, or very sweet juices. The old coil can be cleaned and dry burned.
5) Make sure you're not getting any juice in the center tube when you're filling--this will cause your eVod to leak like a sieve. If some juice gets into the tube, close the top cap, place a tissue under your tank and blow gently through the clearomizer to get rid of any excess eliquid. Also, extra condensation inside the tank may, on some occasions, drip back into the center tube. Wipe your mouthpiece dry with a q-tip or a tissue when you refill (or more often when/if needed).
6) Take an occasional "primer puff" (a slow draw without activating the battery) when you vape. It helps move the juice into the coil chamber and removes any air bubbles that sometimes form in the tank and may cause gurgling or impede proper wicking.
7) Take slow long draws rather than sharp and quick ones like we used to do while smoking cigarettes. Do not over vape, chain vape, power vape. Let the juice travel to the coil between drags.
and last but not least
8) Do not remove any flavor wicks if you're experiencing any leaking or flooding. Those wicks are there for a reason. If you feel that you have to remove a wick because your eliquid is particularly thick, do it carefully--one strand at a time. If your liquid is super thin, you can thicken it with a bit of VG (USP--pharma grade) or you can add another strand of cotton to your flavor wick. Don't add too much or you'll choke your atomizer and get a dry hit.
It's also a good idea to wash the tank with warm water and a drop of dishwashing detergent prior to first use--some of them taste funny on occasion. Rinse well and dry. The atomizer coils may benefit from a quick soak in PGA or vodka if the priming fluid has an off taste, but I haven't had any problems with them--yet.
Also, make sure you're vaping at correct wattages; Kanger recommends 5.5-7.5 watts. Always start low and increase voltage only if necessary.
The juice is not wicking fast enough for the power level you're using. Turn the power down. As Katya mentioned, Kanger generally recommends 5.5-7.5 watts. I generally start at 5 watts and turn it up until I reach optimum vapor and flavor.
It's usually not the Protanks that are the problem.
I'm currently vaping 100% VG on mine with no problems.
Turn down the watts. Start at 5 and work your way up slowly.
I only use mechanical mods personally, however my girl uses a provari and many clearomizer/glassomizers so I have plenty of experience using/ rebuilding pro tank coils. Frankly they're crap. Get yourself an aspire and you will not regret it, very cheap dual coil bdc, Best flavor and vapor production I've had on a clearomizer style setup, beats the protank 3.
Excellent post! I would like to add to #6 and #7 that if you ARE experiencing an occasional dry hit due to vaping faster than the eliquid is wicking to the coil, and you don't want to remove wicks, you can get a bigger burst of eliquid to flow into the coil by covering all the air holes while taking that stiff "primer puff". You will end up creating a vacuum that will slurp eliquid from the tank into the coil.
Also, for those of us that have variable voltage but not variable wattage devices, 5.5-7.5 watts corresponds to approx 3.5-4.1 volts (if me can do math).
EDIT: Forgot to specify that this is for a 2.2 ohm coil. Listen to Katya, not me!
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No they are not.
I own and use both Kanger and Aspire clearomizers--they are both good. Some people prefer single-coil design, other prefer dual coil.
Depends on the resistance of the coil. Here's what Kanger recommends:
"Recommended Voltage for varying resistance levels:
1.7 - 1.9 ohm 3.1 - 3.3 Volts
2.1 - 2.3 ohm 3.4 - 3.7 Volts
2.4 - 2.6 ohm 3.8 - 4.1 Volts
2.6 - 3.0 ohm 4.2 - 4.5 Volts
Please note that atomisers will burn out more quickly at higher voltages."
If you do the math, they recommend 5.5-7.5 watts, which is about right.
Opinions are opinions, but Kanger coils burn out MUCH faster than aspire, and even Davide V1 tanks, and the flavor production may be decent, but the vapor production on even their standard 1.8 ohm coil is simply inadequate in my opinion, even at higher volt/wattages. I've rebuilt kanger coils at 1.0 ohms that have performed well, but their standard coils just don't do it for me.
If they don't meet your standards, by all means, don't use them. May I suggest a Kayfun? A Russian?
My standards are clearly lower than yours, but I like my Kangers.
So do many other happy users.
My Kayfun lite plus is my favorite flavor hound at the moment, good call mate
and everything is a stepping stone, I liked my ego twist back when I started, until I tried a mate's igo-w built at .3ohm haha
and everything is a stepping stone, I liked my ego twist back when I started, until I tried a mate's igo-w built at .3ohm haha
I've been rotating 10 coils in and out of six tanks for more than two months without losing any of them, so clearly "MUCH faster" isn't anything to worry about.
As a pure VG user, I'm sensitive to it. Mine last about 6 days (pt3) compared to 14 or 15 with a aspire.I've been rotating 10 coils in and out of six tanks for more than two months without losing any of them, so clearly "MUCH faster" isn't anything to worry about.
However my voltage is generally very high also.
I've been rotating 10 coils in and out of six tanks for more than two months without losing any of them, so clearly "MUCH faster" isn't anything to worry about.
My experience is very similar to yours, actually. My Kanger coils last for weeks. That said, I take good care of them, I clean them in PGA and I "wet burn" them in PG (or PG/VG mix) and I use very clean and clear eliquids. The only coil cloggers I use are coffee with chocolate and cream and an RY4--both darker and sweeter than everything else I use--so I have to clean my coils more often with those.
Ok, flipped the seal (the cup shaped one) over, dropped wattage and voltage to lowest settings and it seems to have solved the problem for now. Thanks for the help, and happy vaping
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I'm a pure VG user, too, and have 2+ months on my coils. I do try to avoid darker juices and take very good care of them, though.
Ok, that solved the problem for about a day, before I went to bed last night had the same issue but way worse than before. It's been 5 days with the thing and I am ready to smash it with a hammer, or run it rover, or something along those lines to where I won't have to deal with it anymore. That was my first and last og around with the protank models
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I'm just glad my local shop gave me a break on it and I didn't pay close to $25 for the piece of garbage. Going to be on the hunt for a GOOD, working glassomizer, but am done with the protanks. I don't want to be aggravated while I vape, just want to enjoy it.
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I bought my first PT2 on a whim while purchasing some other stuff. Not because I had any preconceived notions as to it being better or anything like that. Like everything else I have vape related, I bought it because it looked cool. I have never, not once experienced a dry hit with a stock coil. But like everything else I do I had to try my hand at rebuilding the disposable coils and have had some work fantastic and others not work at all - flood, dry hits, quick burn outs etc. At this exact moment I'm running my PT2 on a Galileo mech. mod with a .8 ohm micro coil around 2mm Ekowool and it has worked through 40+ ml of 50/50 without a hitch.
My wife was having trouble with burning her throat on her Iclears (16's and 30) on 50/50 so I purchased a Mini PT2 for her because she likes her eGo batteries, loaded it with a 10/90 blend and she hasn't put it down for 3 days, no dry hits, no feed problem and no more throat burn.
Maybe I'm just lucky but other than problems I have caused with my coils that I have rebuilt I have yet to experience and of the problems others have with the PT's.
To the OP, I wish I could offer anything that might help with your aggravation and trust me I know where your at with it, I have a Fogger that I'm determined to make work like all the YouTube videos but 2 weeks with this aggravating thing and I have rolled the window down a few times with it in hand ready for a chuck. I'll get it working perfect then for no reason it will flood all over my hands or stop feeding and choke me with the dreaded acrid smoke from a fried coil (or shoot fire from burning cotton).
My wife was having trouble with burning her throat on her Iclears (16's and 30) on 50/50 so I purchased a Mini PT2 for her because she likes her eGo batteries, loaded it with a 10/90 blend and she hasn't put it down for 3 days, no dry hits, no feed problem and no more throat burn.
Maybe I'm just lucky but other than problems I have caused with my coils that I have rebuilt I have yet to experience and of the problems others have with the PT's.
To the OP, I wish I could offer anything that might help with your aggravation and trust me I know where your at with it, I have a Fogger that I'm determined to make work like all the YouTube videos but 2 weeks with this aggravating thing and I have rolled the window down a few times with it in hand ready for a chuck. I'll get it working perfect then for no reason it will flood all over my hands or stop feeding and choke me with the dreaded acrid smoke from a fried coil (or shoot fire from burning cotton).
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I sat here typing out that last post whilst the wife was changing to a different juice in her Mini PT2. First it won't feed so I give it a whirl and get it to feed but only by pulling really hard without firing then firing it. Funny, she switched from a 10/90 mix to a 50/50 (much thinner). So I grab a coil that I had rebuilt for my PT2 which was working perfectly in it and FLOOD!!! (that was almost an hour ago and I'm still tasting the $$$$). Now I grab a new, never used coil and it's back to working perfectly.
Tried both coils in my PT2 with a 50/50 and both work perfectly. I don't get it.
Tried both coils in my PT2 with a 50/50 and both work perfectly. I don't get it.
This is an AWESOME post, and applies to any tank, not just the Protanks. I vape with Protank 2s, 70/30 PG/VG, 18mg nic, and I am one of the few that does not seem to have had any problems with their Protanks yet, so I don't have a lot to add other than to say that if you follow the advice above, you should very likely reduce your problems.
Good luck!
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