Pro Tank Mini 2 Coil Unit Burnt Taste

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Appleann421

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Feb 24, 2014
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California
I have a KamryK100 with a Mini Protank 2 Top... with a Sony 18650 Battery. I have noticed my coil unit keeps giving me a burnt taste. I have switched out the unit 3 times today.. Noticed when I pulled out the wick, it was kind of burnt.

Any input in whats going on? Maybe my protank is too weak for my mod and I need to upgrade to a drip tip?!!?
 

Sucker_dad

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Let's start with some terms. Drip tip is the piece that goes into your mouth with an O-ring or threads at the bottom. I think you mean a dripping atomizer. That is an option. I would do a bit of research on here and you can try a few different toppers at a local B&M if you have one. I like rebuildables but, you really need to know what your doing before you get into that. You can create a dangerous situation by not knowing certain safety rules.
 

Appleann421

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Feb 24, 2014
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California
Let's start with some terms. Drip tip is the piece that goes into your mouth with an O-ring or threads at the bottom. I think you mean a dripping atomizer. That is an option. I would do a bit of research on here and you can try a few different toppers at a local B&M if you have one. I like rebuildables but, you really need to know what your doing before you get into that. You can create a dangerous situation by not knowing certain safety rules.

Yes, am pretty new.. Know alot of people that do the drip atomizer. I honestly do not have time to keep dripping.. wanted to keep it as simple as possible so started with a basic pen with the pro tank.. Now just upgraded to the k100 but kept the same pro tank top. Issue is the burning of coil unit.
 

Appleann421

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Feb 24, 2014
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California
Usually a burnt taste can come from not letting your juice completely saturate a new wick, to high a voltage/wattage, or juice not entering into the coil unit fast enough. What resistance of protank 2 coils are you running and what level of vg is your juice?


I was thinking my k100 is too strong or high wattage for my little pro tank mini 2. I have tried 1.8 ohm and a 2.2ohm... I was kind of thinking maybe my juice, but it is 50vg/50pg. so not sure why still the burnt hit
 

dexgen

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Jan 29, 2014
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sw missouri
Could be wicking issues, but a 50/50 should not be to thick. Wicking issues with the pt2 can be helped by removing one of the flavor wicks in the coil(the pt2 has two flavor wicks stacked on top of the wicks for the coil). Your juice may not like the voltage coming out of the k100, as I have found some flavors will taste burnt at a higher voltage while a different flavor at the same voltage is fine. Since your device is not variable voltage, using the higher ohm coil is best, which seems you have already done.
 

Appleann421

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Feb 24, 2014
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California
I see lots of moaning and wailing about the miniPT today. It reminded me of a replacement base I had seen that's meant to improve airflow and stop gurgles. Does anyone know of this thing; does it work at all, and is it relevant to all the issues I'm reading about?

Replacement Base for Kanger Mini Protank

You really don't need to get the replacement base.. Had a friend jus make a bigger whole on side for better airflow. Not sure what size hole.
 

JoshAubrey

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Feb 25, 2014
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I haven't been fond of pro tanks so I switched to a BDC Aspire Large Aspire BDC Tanks

One thing to try though is if its not wicking well, when you first put a new head in drip some juice on the wicks on either side and down the hole onto the coil. Then once installed shake the tank around a bit and let it sit upright for a few minutes before you vape.

Another thing to try is cover the air holes and and puff on it without activating your battery, it will pull some juice onto the coil.
 

Ca Ike

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This is why I hate seeing new vapers go for mechs. Most places don't give new vapers the info they need to use a full mech effectively and this is always the result. Blaming the tank when its actually the mod itself that is the core issue. PRotanks are not really designed with full mech mods in mind but more for the std volt range batts such as egos in the 3.0-4.8 range.

YOur pushing out about 4.7 volts on a full charge of that batt and on the mini thats too much power for a 50/50 juice on a 2.2 or lower coil. Your also probably taking 5+ sec hits and 50/50 doesn't wick fast enough in the protanks to keep the coil saturated at those voltages for more than 2-3 sec hits Step up to the 2.5 coils or get yourself a kick regulator and set it for 7 watts. Better yet put that k100 away and get yourself a good VV/VW mod like an SVD, Evic, TEsla or even just an Ego Twist so you can actually have control over your power settings and learn how to dial in the mod for the coil ohms and what the juice likes. IMO you will have a better vape experience in the long run if you step back from the full mech mods and into a good vv/vw mod so you have more control over your vape.

You will find that the protanks like a range of 3.0-4.6 volts depending on coil resistance and juice. As well as juices with base mixes of 70PG/30VG -100pg without modding the stock heads. ANything over 30% vg and you need to remove a flavor wick unless its been thinned out like some high vg juices from totally vaped out and a few others. I use protanks with very little issues and heres some of the tips I came up with based on my experiences. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/529727-kanger-protank-tips.html
 
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Appleann421

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Feb 24, 2014
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California
This is why I hate seeing new vapers go for mechs. Most places don't give new vapers the info they need to use a full mech effectively and this is always the result. Blaming the tank when its actually the mod itself that is the core issue. PRotanks are not really designed with full mech mods in mind but more for the std volt range batts such as egos in the 3.0-4.8 range.

YOur pushing out about 4.7 volts on a full charge of that batt and on the mini thats too much power for a 50/50 juice on a 2.2 or lower coil. Your also probably taking 5+ sec hits and 50/50 doesn't wick fast enough in the protanks to keep the coil saturated at those voltages for more than 2-3 sec hits Step up to the 2.5 coils or get yourself a kick regulator and set it for 7 watts. Better yet put that k100 away and get yourself a good VV/VW mod like an SVD, Evic, TEsla or even just an Ego Twist so you can actually have control over your power settings and learn how to dial in the mod for the coil ohms and what the juice likes. IMO you will have a better vape experience in the long run if you step back from the full mech mods and into a good vv/vw mod so you have more control over your vape.

You will find that the protanks like a range of 3.0-4.6 volts depending on coil resistance and juice. As well as juices with base mixes of 70PG/30VG -100pg without modding the stock heads. ANything over 30% vg and you need to remove a flavor wick unless its been thinned out like some high vg juices from totally vaped out and a few others. I use protanks with very little issues and heres some of the tips I came up with based on my experiences. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/529727-kanger-protank-tips.html

Yes, I had an idea it was from the new mod I got. Had a feeling it was too much from the battery...Never had an issuse when I had the pen... I noticed also ceratin juices work well with my k100... too thick it burns..

Is there any other tops that you would recommend for my mod...??? im not a dripper
 

Ca Ike

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Yes, I had an idea it was from the new mod I got. Had a feeling it was too much from the battery...Never had an issuse when I had the pen... I noticed also ceratin juices work well with my k100... too thick it burns..

Is there any other tops that you would recommend for my mod...??? im not a dripper
For a full mech mod if you don't want to delve into rebuildables yet get a good carto tank. Smoktech makes a good dual coil carto set up that works well on mechs. You can also just step up to the 2.5 kanger coil instead of the 2.2 and lower or go for the kanger aero tank dual coil. The dual coils can handle the extra power without burning as easily as a single coil. REmember, no matter what you get your vape is mainly dependent on the charge in the battery and will not be consistent from full charge to recharge. I still recommend a good vv/vw mod over a full mech unless you plan to get into RDA's and dripping on multiple coils where you really need the extra power. If nothing else try adding a kick regulator to your k100 and it will then work on any topper out there, just more of a pain to adjust on the fly.
 

Ca Ike

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I have found that the pro tank coils need to be dry burnt before using and soak the wicks before putting the chimney back on. Before I started doing this they seemed to crud up and tasted burnt shortly after they were put in.
IF there the older coils with the rubber center pin grommet I agree with you. Kanger had some QC issues on those coils and I found a few where the coil was touching and burning that grommet. The newer silicon grommet heads are a lot better. The coils don't twist out of alignment if you over tighten the tank on the batt as easily as the rubber ones did and the coils seem to be more consistent in the wraps as well. Still its not a bad idea to rinse and dry burn them just incase there are residues on them from the manufacturing.
 
I had to had a similiar issue with my mini and no matter what coil I replaced it still got the same burnt flavor. Removing the flavor wicks down at the bottom seemed to due away with the burnt taste although you will not be able to chain vape but the taste will be a ton better. I'm still fairly new to this as well but it could help you out.
 

fredman0007

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Jul 19, 2013
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I have a KamryK100 with a Mini Protank 2 Top... with a Sony 18650 Battery. I have noticed my coil unit keeps giving me a burnt taste. I have switched out the unit 3 times today.. Noticed when I pulled out the wick, it was kind of burnt.

Any input in whats going on? Maybe my protank is too weak for my mod and I need to upgrade to a drip tip?!!?

Thinking higher ohm coil .... consistent voltage of 3.7 volts with 1.8 ohms or 2.0 ohms should be good
 

Ca Ike

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Appelean Look at the grommet on the coil heads. If they are a milky white color then they are the newer silicon grommets. If they are a creamy off white then they are the rubber grommets. This make a huge difference that I forgot to mention. Unconfirmed by reps, but I found that on the silicon heads Kanger also changed the wick to a slightly looser twisted wick. If you have the rubber grommeted coils the first thing you can do is prime the wick and use a sewing straight pin inserted in the coil wick to loosen the wick up some and this will increase wick performance. YOu can tell if the wick is twisted too tight by how it draws. It should be an easy draw. IF its like sucking through a wet napkin the wick itself is too tight.
 
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