problem with BRC 18650

Status
Not open for further replies.

Eternityroad

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 28, 2010
284
28
76
Las Vegas, Nevada
Two months ago I purchased two BRC 18650 3000mAh for a mod I bought. I alternate using this mod with using my Riva. I use my Riva for work and evenings out (it is smaller and sleeker) and the mod at home. Also I am not a chain vaper. The other day after I took one of the batts off the charger, which indicated fully charged, it failed to operate in the mod. No light on the button or anything. I do alternate batts so I really don't think one batt was being used more than the other. It is no big emergency as I can charge the BRC while I am at work using my Riva, for which I also have two batts. But I would like some idea of what is going on.

Any insight is much appreciated.

Ken
 

rolygate

Vaping Master
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 24, 2009
8,354
12,402
ECF Towers
It's hard to give an opinion on this with no data. You could maybe borrow a multimeter and check a couple of things?

-- The voltage of the 'dead' battery
-- The voltage that the good one is coming off the charger at

Also note that if neither the battery nor the mod has an integral protection circuit (i.e. the cell is a Li-Mn or similar), it is very important not to vape the cell down til it's dead and then recharge it - that will kill it early. You probably don't want to go below 3.2 volts or thereabouts.

Without a meter you are kind of groping in the dark here. Need more info :)
 

mostlyclassics

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Also, some models of changers use a rather unreliable spring mechanism to make tight contact with both ends of the battery. If the charger spring is wonky and doesn't make good contact, then the charger will show a false green light, meaning it thinks the battery is charged when, in fact, it isn't.

My UltraFire charger is that way: I have to diddle with it to make sure there's firm contact at both ends of the battery.

And rolygate is right: it's best to pick up a cheapoid multimeter to check voltages on such batteries and the resistance of attys and cartos. Mine dates from the late 1960's -- it's a VOM which cost me $25 or so in late 1960's dollars. By contrast, vastly superior, digital multimeters are only a few bucks at Harbor Freight and similar places. If you're involved with mods at all, it's a tremendously useful tool.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread