Problems with Subtank Mini

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DavidOck

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Pure speculation here....

IF the 510 pin in the base has a slightly compressed insulating bushing, then both the RBA and OCC will have a bit of a stretch making a solid connection. Short of rebuilding that, one possible fix would be to extend the mating part of the head by pinching it right where the metal pin goes through its insulator, bringing it out just a tad. Like less than a mm. Might work...

The insulators are generally pretty soft, and crush easily from overtightening. Which is often the cause of random connection problems on other clearo types as well.
 

VaperZen

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Apr 27, 2015
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Pure speculation here....

IF the 510 pin in the base has a slightly compressed insulating bushing, then both the RBA and OCC will have a bit of a stretch making a solid connection. Short of rebuilding that, one possible fix would be to extend the mating part of the head by pinching it right where the metal pin goes through its insulator, bringing it out just a tad. Like less than a mm. Might work...

The insulators are generally pretty soft, and crush easily from overtightening. Which is often the cause of random connection problems on other clearo types as well.
Sounds good, I'd do it right now but I'm out of town and left the Subtank mini at home. I will try that as soon as I get home. Does anybody know where I could buy a new bottom assembly with out having to buy a whole new Subtank Mini??!
 

Pcdoctor

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Nov 20, 2011
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Hey


I'm the lucky owner of a Kanger KBox 40 with a Kanger subtank mini, and I love it. I mostly use the mini RBA base, and had had a little problem with that.
When you have to take it apart, it is very difficult to hold on the little edge on the bottom and turn of the top, which can be very hardly stocked. I already have damaged one.
Because of that I have made a little tool in my milling machine, as you can see on the pictures. I was working a little too fast, so it didn't come up, as nice as I wanted, but it works. The small tabs fits into the air channels on the RBA, and you ca turn off the top.
If you are interested you can use the idea and the pictures as you want.

ry%3D315
ry%3D315
 
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DavidOck

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Thanks guys, everyone thanks! I just ordered the airflow control base and a new insulator. I hope this works, but I'm sure it will! Thank you to everyone that had input and that helped, Even the cranky one. ; )

Let us know what fixed it. Helps someone down the road.
 

yuseffuhler

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Mar 28, 2015
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Houghton, MI
Hey


I'm the lucky owner of a Kanger KBox 40 with a Kanger subtank mini, and I love it. I mostly use the mini RBA base, and had had a little problem with that.
When you have to take it apart, it is very difficult to hold on the little edge on the bottom and turn of the top, which can be very hardly stocked. I already have damaged one.
Because of that I have made a little tool in my milling machine, as you can see on the pictures. I was working a little too fast, so it didn't come up, as nice as I wanted, but it works. The small tabs fits into the air channels on the RBA, and you ca turn off the top.
If you are interested you can use the idea and the pictures as you want.

ry%3D315
ry%3D315
There's a thing I never knew I needed until now.
 
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VaperZen

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Anywhere but Here *~*
I bought the subtank mini originally because of the deck it came with, but with those microscopic juice channels and because I use a fairly high vg liquid it didn't wick fast enough for my liking. It has been retired from the rotation and sits in my stand gathering dust
Hey tmcguffie,
I had the same problem. I had my husband drill tiny holes in the sides of the rba section of the Subtank mini, after that it worked great. Well, while it worked, it worked well. Just screw the rba section on tight like you would putting in the tank, then mark right where the liquid channels are, then drill holes above the mark. Make sure you get the holes in the right place. Then wash it off very well. As you wick it make sure you use just a little bit more cotton to have enough to place some in the juice channels and enough to pack the holes with, just like you would if you were rebuilding one of the Subtank Mini store bought coils. Then vape away! You may need to adjust the amount of cotton to your liking, as well as the size holes you punch. I used the smallest drill bit he has, I'm just not sure what size but he has all sizes so it would be the smallest one made. Hope this helps, like everyone here helped me.
 

Jdbaker82

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It has been the opposite for me. I haven't had any issues with the OCC coils. I only use the Subtank about half the time and my last stock OCC coil (0.5 ohm) lasted me 3 weeks. In fact, the nickel OCC coils last me even longer. I just swapped out the first nickel OCC coil that I used the other day and I started using it over 5 weeks ago. I do tend to run it fairly low, at only between 20 and 25 watts, even with the nickel coils. And the coils tell me that they need changing when I start getting dry hits.

I am really happy to hear these coils are lasting that long is that without a performance drop off though I used to always hear people say the BVC coils would last them 2 weeks when I noticed the performance drop off after 3 days

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
 

fwtechwiz

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May 31, 2015
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Fort Wayne, Indiana
My first post on this site, and quite a newb, so bear with me. I've seen lots of reference to using 20-25 watts on the Kanger OCC coils and I'm perplexed. I use an Istick 30 with the Kangertech subtank mini and use the 1.2 ohm stock head. The highest I have ever set the watts at is 15 and even that makes for a hot vape and burnt taste. I'm vaping usually between 7.5 and 9 watts, 3.0 V and get pretty good flavor and my first head lasted about 2 weeks before I notices a charred taste. So why am I seeing all this 20-25 watt stuff? Wouldn't that just fry the head immediately? BTW my juice is 30%PG/70% VG, 6 mg. nicotine.
 

Jdbaker82

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May 16, 2014
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My first post on this site, and quite a newb, so bear with me. I've seen lots of reference to using 20-25 watts on the Kanger OCC coils and I'm perplexed. I use an Istick 30 with the Kangertech subtank mini and use the 1.2 ohm stock head. The highest I have ever set the watts at is 15 and even that makes for a hot vape and burnt taste. I'm vaping usually between 7.5 and 9 watts, 3.0 V and get pretty good flavor and my first head lasted about 2 weeks before I notices a charred taste. So why am I seeing all this 20-25 watt stuff? Wouldn't that just fry the head immediately? BTW my juice is 30%PG/70% VG, 6 mg. nicotine.

my sub tank mini came with . 5 ohm OCC coils I ordered some 1.2 replacements as well

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