Well My wife wanted to pick us up a couple Gennies on fastech a few weeks back and my Prometheus finally got there you know Slowtech ;-( shipping anyway this is my 2nd genny and so far both have been unimpressive against my Kayfuns and Tiafuns.
But first off the the build deck is a joke it has the 3m allen key negative screws that almost short the thing out before you start so I spent most of my day running to the hardware stores looking for philips head 3m screws with a head small enough to replace the enormous allen head that came with this clone. The authentic BTW comes with phillips heads and allens and the clone did not that I got from fastech.But on the other hand the clone came with 2 glass tanks and the authentic comes with some version of plastic and the gives 3 of the tanks on the real deal. I was happy to see the real glass in the clone, Oh by the way there are a few places to to get cool colored glass tanks from to dress the atty up if you so choose.
Ok so this was my dilemma the allen head made it almost impossible to build even using 32GA kanthal and 400 SS screen wick BTW you can forget using eco wool lions mane on top to the SS screen wick there is absolutely no room even with the handmade screws I made that were half the diameter size head when I was done with them that the OEM allens where. The size and the height of the allens are really absurd since I could not find any replacements at the local hardware store I force to buy 3m Stainless Steel button head allens. Ok now the heads were big but the allen socket size was small so I broke out my dremel tool and went to work. I bought 2 nuts that fit the screws to protect the threads and giving my a way to hold these little screws in a pair of visegrips. I did was was called a jam nut by putting both nuts on the screw and tighten them together them clamped the nuts in the visegrips, this protected the the threads from damage while I did the tedious job of of using my dremel with a grinding stone to carefully reduce the size of the heads. You could not do this with the supplied allens because the allen socket was way bigger by time you made them as small as the button head allens I was working with the head would have been gone.
When I get this thing finished I try make make some pictures of the deck and screws before and after so you have a better idea of what I did, as they say pics are worth a thousand words.
SO IMHO the build difficulty for me was the hardest I have ever had the displeasure of building. The quality of the clone as far fit and finish was great. it was like for every thing that i would give this a 10 for in rating there was a 2 or 3 thing about this clone so what I am saying what was good was great what was bad was really bad in the end my rating of this clone was a 5 overall,
Ok so the worst of this unit was the negative post or screws.
Next the center or positive post looks great and has a slot so you can just lay your kanthal through the slot and put the nice sized cap on with your fingers but be very careful not to tighten that too tight or it will shear your wire and you will be starting your wire rapping all over again trust me on this that has happened to me twice so far, part of that is that I am using 32ga kanthal 30 to 28ga I don't think would be such a problem. 32ga is in one way easier to coil as I was doing my dual coils with 1 continuing piece of wire winding the first coil from the bottom to the top and laying my wire thru the positive slot then treading my wire and winding down to the negative screw. This is a very common way to to do gennies dual coils with SS mesh watch a few videos on Youtube on gennie builds with SS mesh and you see what I mean, for the most part one genny is the same as the next as far as build go just some are easier because of more room in the build deck area.
I am shooting for somewhere about 1.3 ohm to 1.5 Ohm the wick hole is about 2mm so I am doing 6 wraps of 32ga kanthal.
Another difference I see between the clone and the real deal is the center pin on the 510 connector is adjustable on the clone its not it almost seem like its stuck and I don't think I could remove it without breaking something the clone has a SS positive pin the real one has copper so the positive center pin on the 510 it another negative point on the clone and it sits pretty high on some PVD's it won't sit flush because the pin is so high.
Well that's it for tonight I will continue to tinker with this but to this point I have yet to have a single vape and been fighting with this since the mid afternoon and it's now almost midnight most atty take me about 20 to 45 min to build first time this has been a day with no end results at this point. like I said I will try to get some pic's for you guys tomorrow.
I just don't think that any atty is worth this amount of work this thing just might end up in the for sale area yet. My wife has the Perseus clone coming in the next few days so I will be reviewing that too when it comes in from slowtech
Good Night all
to be continued
But first off the the build deck is a joke it has the 3m allen key negative screws that almost short the thing out before you start so I spent most of my day running to the hardware stores looking for philips head 3m screws with a head small enough to replace the enormous allen head that came with this clone. The authentic BTW comes with phillips heads and allens and the clone did not that I got from fastech.But on the other hand the clone came with 2 glass tanks and the authentic comes with some version of plastic and the gives 3 of the tanks on the real deal. I was happy to see the real glass in the clone, Oh by the way there are a few places to to get cool colored glass tanks from to dress the atty up if you so choose.
Ok so this was my dilemma the allen head made it almost impossible to build even using 32GA kanthal and 400 SS screen wick BTW you can forget using eco wool lions mane on top to the SS screen wick there is absolutely no room even with the handmade screws I made that were half the diameter size head when I was done with them that the OEM allens where. The size and the height of the allens are really absurd since I could not find any replacements at the local hardware store I force to buy 3m Stainless Steel button head allens. Ok now the heads were big but the allen socket size was small so I broke out my dremel tool and went to work. I bought 2 nuts that fit the screws to protect the threads and giving my a way to hold these little screws in a pair of visegrips. I did was was called a jam nut by putting both nuts on the screw and tighten them together them clamped the nuts in the visegrips, this protected the the threads from damage while I did the tedious job of of using my dremel with a grinding stone to carefully reduce the size of the heads. You could not do this with the supplied allens because the allen socket was way bigger by time you made them as small as the button head allens I was working with the head would have been gone.
When I get this thing finished I try make make some pictures of the deck and screws before and after so you have a better idea of what I did, as they say pics are worth a thousand words.
SO IMHO the build difficulty for me was the hardest I have ever had the displeasure of building. The quality of the clone as far fit and finish was great. it was like for every thing that i would give this a 10 for in rating there was a 2 or 3 thing about this clone so what I am saying what was good was great what was bad was really bad in the end my rating of this clone was a 5 overall,
Ok so the worst of this unit was the negative post or screws.
Next the center or positive post looks great and has a slot so you can just lay your kanthal through the slot and put the nice sized cap on with your fingers but be very careful not to tighten that too tight or it will shear your wire and you will be starting your wire rapping all over again trust me on this that has happened to me twice so far, part of that is that I am using 32ga kanthal 30 to 28ga I don't think would be such a problem. 32ga is in one way easier to coil as I was doing my dual coils with 1 continuing piece of wire winding the first coil from the bottom to the top and laying my wire thru the positive slot then treading my wire and winding down to the negative screw. This is a very common way to to do gennies dual coils with SS mesh watch a few videos on Youtube on gennie builds with SS mesh and you see what I mean, for the most part one genny is the same as the next as far as build go just some are easier because of more room in the build deck area.
I am shooting for somewhere about 1.3 ohm to 1.5 Ohm the wick hole is about 2mm so I am doing 6 wraps of 32ga kanthal.
Another difference I see between the clone and the real deal is the center pin on the 510 connector is adjustable on the clone its not it almost seem like its stuck and I don't think I could remove it without breaking something the clone has a SS positive pin the real one has copper so the positive center pin on the 510 it another negative point on the clone and it sits pretty high on some PVD's it won't sit flush because the pin is so high.
Well that's it for tonight I will continue to tinker with this but to this point I have yet to have a single vape and been fighting with this since the mid afternoon and it's now almost midnight most atty take me about 20 to 45 min to build first time this has been a day with no end results at this point. like I said I will try to get some pic's for you guys tomorrow.
I just don't think that any atty is worth this amount of work this thing just might end up in the for sale area yet. My wife has the Perseus clone coming in the next few days so I will be reviewing that too when it comes in from slowtech
Good Night all
to be continued