Proper resistor for the proper regulator

[mistinthewoods]

Greetings electronics geniuses.
I have a question. I'm planning my next wooden juice mod to be a 5V regulated model. Being a woodworker who only knows to follow the directions of people who know electronics (like y'all), I'm wondering which resistors to use for this app.
I ordered some LDO 5V, 3A regulators from madvapes (the kind with the control pin) and had read in a few places to use a 470 Ohm resistor with this reg. I got my order today and included with it were some 470K resistors. Out of curiosity I went to the MV site and read the descriptions for the resistors. It says there that the 470K resistors are for use with the regulators W/ control pin and the 470 resistors are for use with LEDs.
Do you all agree? Does it matter? What's the diff?
Thanks for all incoming comments.

 

[bigblue30]

Mistinthewoods,

By the schematic that MadVapes provided. The 470 ohm connects from ground to control (pin 3 to 4) but, looking at the spec sheet I do not see that it is required.

Also make sure you use a heatsink. Without it, it will only handle 1.5 watts. 1.5 is not enough for any atty or carto.

Power Dissipation 1 Pd1 1.5 W No Heatsink
Power Dissipation 2 Pd2 15 W With Heatsink

Are you planning on using a "fire" led? If you are you will connect it from voltage out, to the LED then to the 470 ohm then to ground.

 

[mistinthewoods]

Thanks for the reply b.b. but I have to repeat that I'm a woodworker who is only familiar with the little bit of soldering I've done and don't even know what a heatsink is.
I don't plan on using any LEDs. I've never seen the point in them.
I was planning on wiring the guts according to this plan Dreams & Chains Presents the Nico-Drip 5V without the LED or master switch.
My question originally was about the difference between the two resistors but now I'm wondering about this heatsink. I've seen several "how to's" on these 5V mods and they all have regulators and resistors but I haven't seen anything called a heatsink.
As you can tell, I can follow directions but I don't really speak electronic-eese very fluently.

On a side note Mr. blue, Is there any chance you might be coming to the vaper's party at the White Lake Inn on October 2nd?

 

[WillyB]

Seems most MadVapes stuff uses 470Ω resistors, I assume it's not due to any spec, but simply because he probably got a few thousand for pennies.

And when I look at the MV schematic it shows a 10uf output cap. Were this came from is also a mystery.

From the spec sheet.

• Co improves stability and transient response.(Co > 47μF)

I would assume a 100uF at least 10V would make more sense. It's also odd that a Ci cap is shown but no values or types are mentioned.

Also make sure you use a heatsink. Without it, it will only handle 1.5 watts. 1.5 is not enough for any atty or carto.

This may help explain the problem a number of folks have had when using 2.1Ω Joye 510's with this IC (cuts out after a few seconds).

By the schematic that MadVapes provided. The 470 ohm connects from ground to control (pin 3 to 4) but, looking at the spec sheet I do not see that it is required.

I imagine, like with a mosfet, it's a 'pull-down' resistor that keeps it from floating in a semi-open state (bigblue30 of course knows this). Not a bad idea even if it's not specifically mentioned. Again 470Ω is not some some ideal resistance and may be a tad low, you could go higher for the same effect if you like. 1K, 3K, 5K. Although it's no big deal the high ohm resistors should also consume less power.

The Fairchild spec sheets are very lean and don't provide a whole lot of info or examples.

No offense to any of the modders examples you are using but why not just follow and use one of bigblue's guides with the proper components he lists/uses.

 

[bigblue30]

Thanks for the reply b.b. but I have to repeat that I'm a woodworker who is only familiar with the little bit of soldering I've done and don't even know what a heat sink is.

Sorry... A heat sink is just a hunk of metal or aluminum that touches the metal plate on the back of the regulator (the thing with the hold in it) Its purpose is to remove excess heat from the chip. Without a heat sink the regulator that you picked is only good for 1.5 watts. For a e-cig mod the regulator needs to be able to handle around 8 watts. With a heat sink this regulator is good for 15 watts.

I was planning on wiring the guts according to this plan Dreams & Chains Presents the Nico-Drip 5V without the LED or master switch.

That circuit uses 470 ohm resistors for both the regulator and the LED. Like Willb said.. I also think that the resistor in the regulator is a "pull down", (pull down res. make sure that the regulator does not turn on when you do not want it to), and you what that as big as you can and still have it work. If it were me I would try the 470K first.

On a side note Mr. blue, Is there any chance you might be coming to the vaper's party at the White Lake Inn on October 2nd?

I have not been over to that side in a long time....my buddy owned the Shell in downtown Montague. Might have to fire up the GTO and hit the West side.

 

[duby]

Woods, like bigblue stated the 470k is for the control pin.
470ohm resistors are meant for LEDs. I'm fairly certain Madvapes received a shipment of 470k resistors by mistake and has henceforth been giving them away for free.

I imagine, like with a mosfet, it's a 'pull-down' resistor that keeps it from floating in a semi-open state (bigblue30 of course knows this). Not a bad idea even if it's not specifically mentioned.

This is also my assumption

A heat sink is simply a chunk of metal that helps dissipate heat (It could be something other than metal, but lets just go with common practice here).
Without a heatsink the regulator is going to get very hot and could potentially burn out.
A screw is all many people use.
Lots of people will tell you that they use those regulators without heatsinks and have had no problem whatsoever. A few people will complain those regulators burn out constantly and forget to note they don't use a heatsink.

 

[WillyB]

Woods, like bigblue stated the 470k is for the control pin.
470ohm resistors are meant for LEDs...

A heat sink is simply a chunk of metal that helps dissipate heat (It could be something other than metal, but lets just go with common practice here).
Without a heatsink the regulator is going to get very hot and could potentially burn out.
A screw is all many people use.

Lots of people will tell you that they use those regulators without heatsinks and have had no problem whatsoever. A few people will complain those regulators burn out constantly and forget to note they don't use a heatsink.

Most talk of shutting off problems when using a Joye 510 atty. At 5V it wants to pull about 2.4A, and as bigblue stated with no heatsink that exceeds the 1.5A spec. Now for those who buy everything at MV (no Joye 510's) the knock-offs 510's (or 901, 801 and most cartos), ~ 3Ω, will only be drawing about 1.6A, which I assume is this crowd.

Lots of people will tell you that they use those regulators without heatsinks and have had no problem whatsoever.

That's why vague statements like saying '510' are pretty useless.

470ohm resistors are meant for LEDs.

Again different LEDs have different brightness levels, different voltages and current requirements. Some may find a 470Ω resistor a bit dim. A 220 or 330Ω one (brighter) may be more to their liking while still protecting the LED.

 

[CapeCAD]

Here is a calculator for determining the correct resistor to use with an LED: LED calculator for single LEDs

 

[mistinthewoods]

OK folks. Let's see if I've digested any of this info.
A heatsink is a piece of material that draws heat from the regulator much like the finned pieces of aluminum in my computer tower. If this is accurate I would assume that it's size (thickness) would be a factor. I'm mounting this in a wooden box. Would a small 1/16" square of sheet aluminum say, the size of the regulator itself be enough?
As far as the resistor goes, I'll use a 470K resistor between the control pin and the ground. Right?
If there's a better way to do this I'm all ears. Babe in the woods here when it comes to electronics. I can make it pretty all by myself, making it WORK is what I need help with.
Thank goodness for you people!

Back to the previous side note: Bigblue, the White Lake Inn is in the Milford / Waterford area. It's a few miles east of US 23 off of M-59. Nowhere near as far from you as I think you thought. It's probably closer to you than it is to me. Takes me an hour and a half to get there.
It'd be great to meet you there. The guys from Vaporbomb are going to be there again. They brought 10ml juice samples for everybody last time. We have a trading table as well. People put in stuff they don't want and take stuff that they do want. We all had a blast last time. Think about it.

 

[Bahnzo]

Might have to fire up the GTO and hit the West side.

Hell, I might go just to see the GTO (Getting there from Denver might be a problem...) I still remember the GTO my dad had when I was kid..green with white hood stripes I think.

 

[mistinthewoods]

Hey Bahnzo. Hows the dowel mod coming?

 

[Bahnzo]

Hey Bahnzo. Hows the dowel mod coming?

It's sitting there for now. I don't have the tools right now to really give it the proper detail it needs.

 

[bigblue30]

Hell, I might go just to see the GTO (Getting there from Denver might be a problem...) I still remember the GTO my dad had when I was kid..green with white hood stripes I think.

I fell in love with the '65 gto my neighbor had...In 1965.....It was blue with tri power. BUT mine is a '06....I know not a "real" GTO....It's funny. My GTO is my foreign car, made down under in Australia, and the wifes BMW X5 is my American car...made in North Carolina

 

[bigblue30]

OK folks. Let's see if I've digested any of this info.
A heatsink is a piece of material that draws heat from the regulator much like the finned pieces of aluminum in my computer tower. If this is accurate I would assume that it's size (thickness) would be a factor. I'm mounting this in a wooden box. Would a small 1/16" square of sheet aluminum say, the size of the regulator itself be enough?

I have never used the regulator that you picked but, any heatsink is better then nothing. On my TI 383 chip mod I use a 5/8 thick piece the size of the regulator.

As far as the resistor goes, I'll use a 470K resistor between the control pin and the ground. Right?

Correct.


If there's a better way to do this I'm all ears. Babe in the woods here when it comes to electronics. I can make it pretty all by myself, making it WORK is what I need help with.
Thank goodness for you people!

Back to the previous side note: Bigblue, the White Lake Inn is in the Milford / Waterford area. It's a few miles east of US 23 off of M-59. Nowhere near as far from you as I think you thought. It's probably closer to you than it is to me. Takes me an hour and a half to get there.
It'd be great to meet you there. The guys from Vaporbomb are going to be there again. They brought 10ml juice samples for everybody last time. We have a trading table as well. People put in stuff they don't want and take stuff that they do want. We all had a blast last time. Think about it.

Cool....I will do my best to get there.