To Properly use this calculator to build a .3ohm coil with a low heat flux on an Atlantis aspire, i first go to wattage on heatflux and then put in 58.8 watts (this is the number i get for .3ohms at 4.2 volts) I then put in .3 ohms for target resistance. Now i just go and change the wire and gauge settings until i have something with a heatflux between 20-30 and wraps under say 15. Is this the correct way to use this calculator for what i am trying to do? I am just trying to figure out what wire material and gauge to purchase, and then how many wraps i ideally want to do.
Properly using the Steam Engine Calculator.
- Thread starter Kevin Doane
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I don't know about all of that. 
I don't know what heat flux is.
Rebuilding coils in a factory-made clearo like the Aspire Atlantis you usually use finer gauge Kanthal like 28 or 30 gauge. Generally try to keep the number of wraps or loops to around 6 -10. You don't want the coil to be too long (or too short).
You can change the variables around in the online calculators to find specific numbers of resistance, amps, wattage, voltage, etc.
I prefer using the Toy Calculator as it will provide an illustration of the finished coil.
I don't know what heat flux is.Rebuilding coils in a factory-made clearo like the Aspire Atlantis you usually use finer gauge Kanthal like 28 or 30 gauge. Generally try to keep the number of wraps or loops to around 6 -10. You don't want the coil to be too long (or too short).
You can change the variables around in the online calculators to find specific numbers of resistance, amps, wattage, voltage, etc.
I prefer using the Toy Calculator as it will provide an illustration of the finished coil.
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Pretty much. At that resistance on a single coil at say 1.5mm internal diameter, you'd looking at 24g at about a 4top, 3bottom wrap, 22g you'd be looking at 6/5 wrap from my calculations. 1mm ID you'd be 5/4 with 24g and 8/7 with 22g. Why so low on resistance in an Atlantis for such a high wattage output, 0.5ohms at around 20-30watts is what they are designed for.
Heatflux from what i understand is supposed to be correlated with how hot your vapor is, and last build of a coil i did i got .5 ohms at like 6-7 wraps and it spits hot juice and an uncomfortable vape (air coming out is hot) My tank heats up very quickly too. I dont know the gauge of the wire because the guy at the local vape shop just recommended the wire to me at that gauge but i disagree the experience is subpar and stock coils are definitely better than the last build.
My goal is more vapor than the stock coil but at a temperature comparable to the stock coil. If i am using this calculator correctly then i already know what gauge wire and how many wraps. Just want to make sure before i go buy the wire.
My goal is more vapor than the stock coil but at a temperature comparable to the stock coil. If i am using this calculator correctly then i already know what gauge wire and how many wraps. Just want to make sure before i go buy the wire.
On an aspire sub ohm battery (the battery built to pair with the atlantis tank) i cant control my wattage or force them. I get whatever wattage naturally comes out with whatever ohm+volt i am using. I am under the assumption here to get more vapor than my .5 ohm that i want to go lower the battery is rated to handle .3 - .1.0 ohm. Says it right on the battery and website. So 4.2 volts at .3 ohms has my battery pumping out 58.8 watts. I cant do anything about that with .3 ohms.
I hope my assumptions not wrong here but it should pump out more vapor. Before anybody says thats dangerous, the battery is rated to safely handle .3 ohms and i can accurately measure .3 ohms (so i wont in reality be running a .1 or .2 by mistake)
I hope my assumptions not wrong here but it should pump out more vapor. Before anybody says thats dangerous, the battery is rated to safely handle .3 ohms and i can accurately measure .3 ohms (so i wont in reality be running a .1 or .2 by mistake)
If it is spitting at you then the coil is getting way to hot for the amount of wicking, juice flow, and airflow it is getting, especially when dealing with thicker juices. So it is sounding like 24g wire by a guess. May be gaps between the wires if a microcoil setup, you could try a standard spring spaced wrapping method using a screw as your wrapping brace and wrap the coil in the screw grooves. Hard to really tell, but lower resistance means the coil will be hotter than the stock coils FYI.
I Know it is going to get hotter but doesn't the wire type and and number of wrappings, wire length etc effect how hot its going to get?. Like if i have more wraps a longer wire, the heat is more displaced the juice isnt getting too hot in one place but there is more available surface area to produce more vapor. Its like simmering a bathtub worth of water at a lower temperature vs boiling a small pan of water at a higher temperature if i am visualizing/understanding this correctly.
Vapor production is based off, resistance first yes, hotter and faster you can vaporize liquid the more vapor, but like with mother nature does day to day, bigger clouds need cool air as well to form them, not enough cool air flowing in to condense the vapor into a visible cloud and keep your coil cool enough, you'll get spitting, and I wouldn't suggest modifying the tank's airflow, doing so could possibly alter the vacuum to hold liquids properly.
Well i don't want to physically modify the tank or the juice flow holes in the coil. I would like to hope and plan on finding out if they are adequate enough just the way they are. I can adjust the amount of cotton and the cotton membrane in the coil, to accommodate for better juice flow. Theres already a lot of airflow in an atlantis, i hope its enough.
If this doesn't work well it doesn't work well, but i do intend on finding out. right now one setting i am looking at is 21 gauge nichrome at 12 wraps (could be tricky getting that many in) at .3 ohms and my wattage output should have a heatflux of 233 which i think is relatively cool but i lack the experience to know if this is a good number to hit or not.
If this doesn't work well it doesn't work well, but i do intend on finding out. right now one setting i am looking at is 21 gauge nichrome at 12 wraps (could be tricky getting that many in) at .3 ohms and my wattage output should have a heatflux of 233 which i think is relatively cool but i lack the experience to know if this is a good number to hit or not.
To get where you are wanting is going to take a lot of trail and error. Just remember, to do so safely. I'd look at a parallel coil (2 wires side by side) before I started going towards 20-22g nichrome, and adjust your calculations as a dual coil then. Thicker the wire, longer it takes to ramp up the coil to temperature, and a lot more battery power to do so.
If you do a search on YouTube for "aspire atlantis coil rebuild" you'll get multiple hits.
I've seen multiple videos for the rebuild. I know how to do it, and different people spit out different numbers and wiretypes for what you should be using. I have a specific goal in mind and am using the calculator to get it done.
So i gave it a shot with 24 gauge kanthal, and have concluded that it is just by all purposes not feasible or practical. The wires too thick to wrap parallel and without parallel its stupid hot. You cant fit 10 wraps in the barrel without it shorting, and when i did get it to read .3 ohms, nothing happened, my battery said it was fireing but nothing got hot, nothing hapened. The gauge just isnt practical for the size. There may be other ways of going about this but this is not the way.
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