Protank 3 insufficient vapor

[Asymetric]

Hello,

First of all, let me introduce myself - I've been into vaping for a short time (~2 months), and I really like tinkering and playing with my atomizers. Until now I have had a Kanger Protank 3 Mini, which was (and still is) pretty good with a cheap Ego-T 1300mAh battery. Recently I bought a Protank 3 with Tesla Sidewinder 1 2000mAh 3,7V battery.
Just out of the box, I swapped the provided coil with a new one, with lower resistance (~1.3ohm). After a few hits it was flooded, gurgling and annoying me. It took me around 2 hours of rebuilding and watching videos (which were of no use), wasting 3 metres of wire, 2 metres of wick and some cotton, until I figured out how to fix this - by adding a wick under coils as well, preferably cotton. No flavor wicks needed. Finally it started working normally, but ever since I cant get it to work as good as my Mini Protank. It is OK but far from perfect.
I tried nearly everything - higher resistance, lower resistance, flavor wicks, using tape to tighten airflow, using cotton for coils and silica for the bottom wick/mid layer, using silica for coils and cotton for the other wicks, using pure cotton and pure silica. The best I could achieve is with 2mm silica, with 1 cotton wick underneath, 6 wraps top/6 wraps bottom 32 AWG Kanthal or the same resistance Nichrome. The resistance is fairly low (~1,1ohm), power output big and still the vapor sucks. Further lowering of resistance would most likely cause the vapor to be too hot (even now it is really warm), and I noticed that below 7 wraps the performance doesn't really improve, only vapor temperature increases.
The vapor is, say 20% less dense than my Mini vapor, which is 7wraps top/8wraps bottom (~1,3ohm). I totally don't get it how is this possible. Is it because of the bottom "anti-gurgle" wick? I wasted like 3 hours with experimenting and still without results. Flavor is pretty good, maybe even better in Protank, but the vapor production...Does anyone have a clue what could I do ? The only thing which comes to my mind is to get a wire with less resistance (say 30 or 28 AWG), and use more wraps to increase the surface of evaporation, but I don't know...
Unless I find a way to improve it, the tank is going to end in my "box of god-forgotten stuff"
Please, replies like "get yourself an AeroTank or a dripper if you want more vapor" are useless to me, I just want my Protank to work like the Mini.

Thanks in advance for answers,
Asy

P.S My e-juice is an equal mix of 65/35 and 50/40/10 PG/VG/Water.

 

[mauricem00]

Hello,

First of all, let me introduce myself - I've been into vaping for a short time (~2 months), and I really like tinkering and playing with my atomizers. Until now I have had a Kanger Protank 3 Mini, which was (and still is) pretty good with a cheap Ego-T 1300mAh battery. Recently I bought a Protank 3 with Tesla Sidewinder 1 2000mAh 3,7V battery.
Just out of the box, I swapped the provided coil with a new one, with lower resistance (~1.3ohm). After a few hits it was flooded, gurgling and annoying me. It took me around 2 hours of rebuilding and watching videos (which were of no use), wasting 3 metres of wire, 2 metres of wick and some cotton, until I figured out how to fix this - by adding a wick under coils as well, preferably cotton. No flavor wicks needed. Finally it started working normally, but ever since I cant get it to work as good as my Mini Protank. It is OK but far from perfect.
I tried nearly everything - higher resistance, lower resistance, flavor wicks, using tape to tighten airflow, using cotton for coils and silica for the bottom wick/mid layer, using silica for coils and cotton for the other wicks, using pure cotton and pure silica. The best I could achieve is with 2mm silica, with 1 cotton wick underneath, 6 wraps top/6 wraps bottom 32 AWG Kanthal or the same resistance Nichrome. The resistance is fairly low (~1,1ohm), power output big and still the vapor sucks. Further lowering of resistance would most likely cause the vapor to be too hot (even now it is really warm), and I noticed that below 7 wraps the performance doesn't really improve, only vapor temperature increases.
The vapor is, say 20% less dense than my Mini vapor, which is 7wraps top/8wraps bottom (~1,3ohm). I totally don't get it how is this possible. Is it because of the bottom "anti-gurgle" wick? I wasted like 3 hours with experimenting and still without results. Flavor is pretty good, maybe even better in Protank, but the vapor production...Does anyone have a clue what could I do ? The only thing which comes to my mind is to get a wire with less resistance (say 30 or 28 AWG), and use more wraps to increase the surface of evaporation, but I don't know...
Unless I find a way to improve it, the tank is going to end in my "box of god-forgotten stuff"
Please, replies like "get yourself an AeroTank or a dripper if you want more vapor" are useless to me, I just want my Protank to work like the Mini.

Thanks in advance for answers,
Asy

P.S My e-juice is an equal mix of 65/35 and 50/40/10 PG/VG/Water.

I have both the protank 2 and the protank 3 and have the same problem with them. the protank 3 works OK with a dual coil build this method using silica wicks works well for me. using 2 of these $1.99 Pre-made Wires and Wicks for Atomizer (50-Pack) 50-pack - 35 AWG / 2.9ohm / 2-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping with a silica or cotton wick in between to separate the coils also works but at best the protank3 works no better than the protank2 and is much more difficult to rebuild properly

 

[Vaslovik]

Many long ages ago, when the world was young and green, and wild poodles roamed the earth, I used a Protank. I went through coils like there was no tomorrow. I got into rebuilding them. I had 25 coils in rebuilding rotation. I got tired of it. I got a mech and a genny and learned how to build that. I was finally happy.

 

[suprtrkr]

It's been a loooooooong time since I used a protank. By me.

 

[djsvapour]

Honestly?

All the craze of rebuilding Protanks (back when the dinosaurs were walking around) was for the single coil ones. PT 1&2. Mini PT 1&2.

There were tutorials for V3, of course, but I can only describe the process as borderline insanity. It's easier to build on a Kayfun and the vape is superior.

I know you don't want to hear this, but 1,000s of posts on the subject tells me you might well enter the evil maze of self-destruction trying to sort this.
Can your battery even begin to cope with a 1.1ohm coil anyway... I doubt it. I expect you are hitting the amp limit before you can say "expecto weak vape-o"
It could be entirely down to your battery, this whole thing actually....

Anyone who made a coil and wick for their Protank and then put it on a multi-meter and discovered it was under 1.5ohms threw it away and started again, unless they had a mod.

*edit* No.... your battery cannot cope with 1.1ohms, even at the 3.7v setting.

 

[edyle]

when the aerotank came out the protanks became obsolete.

I used to rebuild protanks heads back in 2014;

your big difference between miniprotank and protank would be airflow; just look at the protank and ask yourself how that air is going to enter, and travel. you are basically sucking air through an obstructed pinhole.
oh, sometimes you will find bad batches of replacement coil heads with no airslot at the bottom of the centerpin

actually I used to use protanks but not with the base it came with; I used to screw on miniprotank bases plus the airholes on those miniprotank bases were drilled open to 2mm;

but anyway it is 2016 and so many great cheap rebuildable stuff out there; the protank upgrade is the subtank with truely rebuildable heads, and much wider airflow.

 

[Asymetric]

Hah, interesting, right now im vaping on that battery with my mini 1.2 ohms and it vapes like a charm. I can state for sure that it's not the battery. Oh, and 3.3amps for a 2000mAh capcity battery is OK Alright, thank you for all the answers, I'll post an update if I find something useful.
Edit - Explanation, why I use this "....ty" clearo and not a "proper" RBA is simple. Correct me if I'm wrong, but a good RBA costs at least 30€, a grip at least 20€ and batteries another 10-30€. That's totally 60€ at least, and still nothing special. A goood RBA/RTA costs around 150€ with everything you need. You know, for a student like me with part-time jobs and a plenty of hobbies that's not for free..
Haha, such bull...., as soon as I have enough money and "ensure" myself that vaping is what I want to spend it on, ill definitely get one

 

[choochoogranny]

Okay, I rebuild the single, spaced coil of the ProTank 2's and Davides with 30 guage Kanthal and Sally's cellu cotton. Use a $5 air flow controller for both the regular size tank and mini. My coiling usually comes out to 1.5-1.8 ohms. Been using these rebuilds for two yrs. now along with both sizes of Nautilus and more recently the SubTank mini. Manage to "tootle puff" on all three during the day just fine.

Edit to add: I use all the above on ProVari 2.5 or Radius, Subox, MVP IV, and Vapor Shark 30 rDNA.

 

[Teelux]

Trying to get into vaping while using relatively poor gear is like trying to get into playing music using a old, warped guitar: It's discouraging and you're likely to stop out of frustration. Especially if you're into rebuilding.

The good news is that you can get a quality setup for a price in the neighborhood of 60€. I would offer suggestions in terms of vendors that I can find online, but I'm unsure where you live.

 

[djsvapour]

Hah, interesting, right now im vaping on that battery with my mini 1.2 ohms and it vapes like a charm. I can state for sure that it's not the battery. Oh, and 3.3amps for a 2000mAh capcity battery is OK

Well, if you are sure, you are sure. I don't have every spec on every battery ever made, but most of the VV eGo batteries are limited to 2.5amps.

 

[Asymetric]

I understand what you mean, but, however stupid I may sound here, I'm totally satisfied with my Mini Protank atm...Good flavor, plenty of vapor to play with (for me), lightweight and I also like the look...
Yes I am sure this battery doesn't have 2.5 amp limit, would be the same if I vaped at 1.5 ohms and 1.2 ohms which definitely isn't. According to the vendor, which claims that they tested it, it can go as low as .8ohms, which may be too much, but it convinces me that it doesn't have the typical ego amp limit (is a reliable vendor, in Czech Republic btw.)
I'll drill a hole or two into the Mini when I have time, will see if it can be even better

 

[Bunnykiller]

I used a Protank since it was the only thing available...... they are not made for clouds of any size... way too little airflow, wicking capacity, and coil size... get a RBA or a Subtank and adjust them down to your liking... the PT will just drive you nutz trying to make it right.

 

[mcclintock]

Gurgling and leaking out the wick is usually a leak that spoils the vacuum that develops in the tank.

I really don't like any of the Kanger dual coil series very much. Either build a single coil or use the old single coil style heads and double extra gaskets on top. Or get a $2 generic EVOD tank and some proper Kanger 2.2 ohm OCCs for it. IMO they outperform any of the dual coil series in flavor for half the power and a third the juice. You may need less than 3.7 volts if you like long drags though. I have considered setting up my (overpriced) Aerotank with an OCC too, with the extra airflow it might even do OK with the leftover 1.8 coil I have somewhere.

I can't see a RDA setup costing 150, just don't plunk down the dough for what's quick and easy like many do. Over here there's online sellers showing EVICs with tank for $50. I bought my Derringer clone for $20 local and Fasttech has theirs for $6. Juice can cost you unless you go DIY though, and I'm only running 11-14 watts (I used 14 on my Aerotank for a fraction of the vapor).

 

[Asymetric]

Okay, I hate to say this but it seems you've persuaded me... But I'll need some help with choosing correctly, if you would be so kind
I've done some research and I am thinking about this setup - Eleaf Lemo 2 RTA with 100W Eleaf iStick TC mod. I don't know if TC mods are really that good for a newbie like me, maybe it would be better to stick to the VW ones as they cost the same (lol TC is even cheaper). If they are, would you recommend Ti or Ni200 wire?
Oh, and an important question - is gearbest.com a reliable vendor (do they really sell genuine stuff?) So far, I've only bought some wires and chargers there and never had a problem. But this is something different...
Thanks,
Asy

 

[Sir2fyablyNutz]

Okay, I hate to say this but it seems you've persuaded me... But I'll need some help with choosing correctly, if you would be so kind
I've done some research and I am thinking about this setup - Eleaf Lemo 2 RTA with 100W Eleaf iStick TC mod. I don't know if TC mods are really that good for a newbie like me, maybe it would be better to stick to the VW ones as they cost the same (lol TC is even cheaper). If they are, would you recommend Ti or Ni200 wire?
Oh, and an important question - is gearbest.com a reliable vendor (do they really sell genuine stuff?) So far, I've only bought some wires and chargers there and never had a problem. But this is something different...
Thanks,
Asy

You might try shopping here:
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or from China : www.HeavensGifts.com, www.Fasttech.com

 

[Asymetric]

Fasttech and HeavensGifts are the same as GearBest. China seems as best choice to me, if the goods are genuine I don't mind the longer shipping time (has always been around 3-4 weeks so far). The pricing is very good, iStick 100W TC costs around 60€ here. And better than UK shops as well, shipping (to EU) is expensive there.

 

[djsvapour]

Oh, and an important question - is gearbest.com a reliable vendor (do they really sell genuine stuff?) So far, I've only bought some wires and chargers there and never had a problem. But this is something different...

I have a feeling Gearbest are currently on the 'watch list' on AAEC UK for some dodgy goings on. These include various minor problems mostly around pre-orders I think. (Not 100% sure).
£23.40 on Fasttech. Basically £40 ($56) from a UK online shop.

I think you are wise to get something with an independent battery too.

 

[Sir2fyablyNutz]

Fasttech and HeavensGifts are the same as GearBest. China seems as best choice to me, if the goods are genuine I don't mind the longer shipping time (has always been around 3-4 weeks so far). The pricing is very good, iStick 100W TC costs around 60€ here. And better than UK shops as well, shipping (to EU) is expensive there.

At Fasttech if it says "authentic" it usually is (I haven't heard or seen otherwise). If it says "styled" it's a clone. I've had great service and gear from Heavens as well (DHL shipping is 4 days from China to my door). I've read a lot about gearbest being gear slowest.

 

[wheelie]

I have two Protank 3's. Good in there day. Keeping mine to put in my museum of old relics. To many good tanks out now. CHEERS!

 

[Asymetric]

Okay, I'm considering Fasttech, anyone else can confirm that they are reliable and sell genuine stuff? And is Lemo 2 a good choice for a newbie into rebuilding? I mean, are there no major flaws with this RTA + TC feature? Ti or Ni200? So many questions...
Edit - Fasttech.com don't have Lemo 2 in stock :\ Says around 7 days but who knows. Heavengifts is a bit more expensive, around 5€ on istick, 5€ on each cell and 8€ on Lemo 2 :\ Probably I'll have to stick with Gearbest, according to all the reviews online they shouldn't sell fakes...