Protank Cotton build for mechanical mods

[metalhed73]

Well after posting my last build technique and seeing some people people not thrilled with their protanks on mechanical mods around the forums. It got me thinking that I should see if I could build a coil setup to get the best performance out of my mechanicals. Being that I also have been interested in seeing what "micro coils" could do it seemed like a good chance to try something new..........All I can say is WOW, first build was a 28awg kanthal 5-6 micro coil wrapped on the same 5/64" drill bit as I use for my regulated mod builds, came out to 1.1ohms. Thought I will see how this goes, Primed a fresh tank of schmecto schmooler from the vapor chef and let it buck.

If you have been looking for a warmer vape from your protank and something that throws a TON of warm vape, this is your build. Now I realize that this would also work on a DNA20 mod (still to rich for my blood) or possibly on a Provari (don't have one for same reason I don't have a DNA20 mod). On my Magneto this thing is a beast, the only issue I have found is on a fresh battery if you take a long hit I was getting just a slight burnt taste, this is solved by either using a not quite fresh battery or just take shorter hits ( I will have to see if one more wrap on the coil would solve this)

I will post up some pics tomorrow when I build a spare for this.

Until then,

 

[metalhed73]

Photos as promised:

wrapped the coil on the drill bit keeping it as tight as possible without overlap (this photo was actually taken after pinch and torch operation, so, your coil will not look this tight at first)


next take the coil off of the drill bit and pinch the coils in a tweezers


once you are here you want to take a torch and heat the coil until it glows and hold it there for about 10 seconds

From there is is a basic protank build like my original post HERE

Insert the drill bit through the coil and place it in the empty head and make your connections just as before.


Wick it with cotton just like in the original thread


From there prime it and vape

With a fully charged battery this is about 16 watts and will taper down to about 10 watts by the time your battery is dead. Even on a wanning battery this still provides a good vape. Flavor is just as good as my regulated build. As stated in my original post in the future will will likely run a 6-7 wrap or maybe even a 7-8 wrap to keep the slight burnt flavor from coming in when I take those long hits on a full battery, though it really has not been much of an issue. I mention this only because I want total disclosure on my builds so hopefully anyone trying this doesn't run into any "surprises" if they built it right.

 

[Ronald3638]

I will be trying this. Thanks for the post.

 

[PurpleV]

Time to give a go on my nemmy

Sent from my SGH-M919

 

[metalhed73]

Kinda shocked this thread hasn't seen more action, it has been a couple weeks vaping this setup and I am still loving it.

Today I was messing around with a dual nano coil protank head.......it works but I would say not worth the complication of the build, if anyone is interested it is a good vape just not an earth shattering difference over my original micro coil build, while being VERY finicky to build.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free

 

[K_Tech]

Kinda shocked this thread hasn't seen more action, it has been a couple weeks vaping this setup and I am still loving it.

Today I was messing around with a dual nano coil protank head.......it works but I would say not worth the complication of the build, if anyone is interested it is a good vape just not an earth shattering difference over my original micro coil build, while being VERY finicky to build.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free

Nano coil? Please elaborate...

 

[rawr]

Excellent way to rebuild kanger coil heads. I also tried bio/organic cotton, but i get mild taste from it. Have to boil it and test...

Instead of cotton i use 2mm silica and it fits perfectly in a coil, which is made with a help of 1.6mm nail.


1. Make a coil on nail.
2. Insert a coil in head and secure it with rubber and pin, make connections etc..
3. Then check that the coil isnt too low or high in a head.Its easier to lift it with a nail, when sitting too low. Remove the nail.
4. Place the top cap on the head, screw the coil head in the base and test the ohms and do some dry burns to clean the wire on 3V
5. Remove the head from base, remove the top cap and insert the silica. Clean hands are crucial1!
6. Place 2 little/tiny parts of the silica on top of the coil, so it wont leak
7. Place the top cap on the head, screw it in the base and trim the excess silica
8. Enjoy

 

[metalhed73]

Nano coil? Please elaborate...

32awg coil wrapped on a 20awg (pretty sure that was the size but it is really small) needle, the coils are built like a micro coil (wrap, pinch, burn, install) they are small enough to stack vertically in a protank head without touching anything, but it takes a lot of fiddling. I would say as of right now it did not gain me anything overall and I believe this is due to the air flow restrictions of the configuration of the head.

 

[K_Tech]

32awg coil wrapped on a 20awg (pretty sure that was the size but it is really small) needle, the coils are built like a micro coil (wrap, pinch, burn, install) they are small enough to stack vertically in a protank head without touching anything, but it takes a lot of fiddling. I would say as of right now it did not gain me anything overall and I believe this is due to the air flow restrictions of the configuration of the head.

With that small of a coil, do you thread any wicking material through it, or do you just lay the wick on top of the coil?

 

[metalhed73]

Carefully thread it through

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free

 

[aspl2000]

Can I do that coil for a vamo v5 plz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[joeybear]

Can I do that coil for a vamo v5 plz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, if you're using a PT tank. You can regulate the power, too, which is a nice bonus with vv/vw

 

[TheJohnG]

Bought a PT3 just for this reason. A little more room to work, and you can use o-rings or grommets to move the wick holes around. I built a 1.3 for the PT2 and it was heaven until the flood/dry challenge began. I am holding off on the 3 until replacement coils are availiable.

The JohnG

 

[Nataani]

32awg coil wrapped on a 20awg (pretty sure that was the size but it is really small) needle, the coils are built like a micro coil (wrap, pinch, burn, install) they are small enough to stack vertically in a protank head without touching anything, but it takes a lot of fiddling. I would say as of right now it did not gain me anything overall and I believe this is due to the air flow restrictions of the configuration of the head.

Interesting idea to vertically stack the coils. That said, I suspect the reason you dont notice a difference is due to the limited space in the atty for air flow. I have built a dual coil for a pro tank 2 using nano coils, but filed out the cup and laid them side by side. It was a serious pain, but wow, the difference was incredible. Why I dont still do it? Because the trouble was just not worth it, also, because I prefer to vape my pro tanks on a VV, and doing a dual coil setup left me at 0.7 ohms, so I had to use a mech.

I leave the dual coils to my RDAs, or maybe to a PT3 if I ever get one.

 

[Moodyfisherman]

Photos as promised:

wrapped the coil on the drill bit keeping it as tight as possible without overlap (this photo was actually taken after pinch and torch operation, so, your coil will not look this tight at first)
View attachment 252851

next take the coil off of the drill bit and pinch the coils in a tweezers
View attachment 252852

once you are here you want to take a torch and heat the coil until it glows and hold it there for about 10 seconds

From there is is a basic protank build like my original post HERE

Insert the drill bit through the coil and place it in the empty head and make your connections just as before.
View attachment 252855

Wick it with cotton just like in the original thread
View attachment 252857

From there prime it and vape

With a fully charged battery this is about 16 watts and will taper down to about 10 watts by the time your battery is dead. Even on a wanning battery this still provides a good vape. Flavor is just as good as my regulated build. As stated in my original post in the future will will likely run a 6-7 wrap or maybe even a 7-8 wrap to keep the slight burnt flavor from coming in when I take those long hits on a full battery, though it really has not been much of an issue. I mention this only because I want total disclosure on my builds so hopefully anyone trying this doesn't run into any "surprises" if they built it right.

You have no pics of the cup from the side....a have a true 5/64" bit that does not fit all the way down into the cup....can you clarify if the bit you use fits all the way down to the bottom of the cup?

 

[Nataani]

I have a 5/64th bit and it fits, although very snug, are you sure your protank coils are original kangertech? I know some of the knockoffs have smaller gaps in the cups.

 

[Moodyfisherman]

I have a 5/64th bit and it fits, although very snug, are you sure your protank coils are original kangertech? I know some of the knockoffs have smaller gaps in the cups.

Yeppers....from Sun-Tech in Cali....well known Kanger rep......the bit fits if I force it...so I sanded a toothpick a little and drop them in but the bit is a no go?

 

[Nataani]

I just checked again, apologies, I use a 1/16th bit, which fits perfectly. As you said a 5/64th fits only after a fair bit of force.

 

[metalhed73]

I actually use a 1/16th bit for the protank, I have a few bits for wrapping coils and they are not marked so I got them mixed up. Grabbed a caliper and sure enought .0625". My apologies for the confusion.

 

[Trev1]

Anyone use a 20 g needle tip? Or does 1/16 bit work better?