I am having an issue with one of my new Protank IIs. When I attach it to my MVP It acts like it is plugged up. I have tried the bottom on several of my tanks and changed the atty as well, it does the same thing on all my tanks. Air moves through it if I suck or blow out of it off the MVP but it just locks up or something as soon as I attach it. I am having no problems with any of the others, just that one bottom. Any ideas on how to fix it?
Protank II problem
- Thread starter TAT191
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Even though the PT2 has "air channels" in the base, the air holes themselves are still just above the threading. You might want to try it on a mod with a shorter thread connection, or use an adapter to keep the air holes above the connection bit. I know its not ideal, but some of the protanks, the air holes just aren't in the right place or high enough to be over the connection to the mod/device to allow for adequate air flow.
It might help getting a airflow control valve: Kanger Airflow control valve for Protank-2, Protank-3, Aerotank – KangerTech It's not that expensive, and the protank 2 get better also.
I second the air flow base for the Protanks. I've been using an Aspire Nautilus and a Kanger Aerotank Mega lately and once I saw that there was an air flow base for the other Protanks I bought one for those, too.
All the air has to come through the center hole in the Protank head and the 4 holes around the outside above the threads. You may have a mod with deep threads and the holes get cut off from air.
The air flow base only costs $4 or $5 and is definitely worth it. The air flow base moves the air ports from down inside the threaded area to the bottom side of the tank where there's no restriction. Multiple air holes around the base are controlled by turning a threaded outer ring up and down to partially block the air holes or leave them completely open. For the price, everyone who vapes a Protank should have one. It fixes a problem that should have been fixed in the original design.
All the air has to come through the center hole in the Protank head and the 4 holes around the outside above the threads. You may have a mod with deep threads and the holes get cut off from air.
The air flow base only costs $4 or $5 and is definitely worth it. The air flow base moves the air ports from down inside the threaded area to the bottom side of the tank where there's no restriction. Multiple air holes around the base are controlled by turning a threaded outer ring up and down to partially block the air holes or leave them completely open. For the price, everyone who vapes a Protank should have one. It fixes a problem that should have been fixed in the original design.
Another vote for the Aero base on the ProTank 2. I have one and it makes all the difference in the world! Much better draw, no flooding, no dry hits. It actually works better than my Aero Tank!
I agree with TwoTimes, your new PT2 has a bad base. Air holes not drilled properly.
The aerotank AFC is also a great fix. Tried one on a puritank, just to see if it would fit. Now I have Aerotank AFCs on all my PT and Puritanks, 16 at last count.
Adjustable draw and no more juice on your PV 510 connector = Win, Win.
The aerotank AFC is also a great fix. Tried one on a puritank, just to see if it would fit. Now I have Aerotank AFCs on all my PT and Puritanks, 16 at last count.
Adjustable draw and no more juice on your PV 510 connector = Win, Win.
I will take a look at the air flow valves. I saw somewhere that they may help with the flooding & leaking issue. After taking a better look (those holes are tiny!) I discovered that there were no holes. I spoke to a person at 101vape and they asked for a picture. They are now sending me a new tank. Two big thumbs up to the customer service at 101vape.com! Thank you all for the advise, I will be looking into the air flow valves, I have 6 Protanks so it may be worth it.
- Status
Similar threads
