Troubleshooting Protank Mini II

[kiwisoop]

Lately I've been having an issue with my Mini Protank II. I used to absolutely love this tank and it was always my go to vape. But recently the flavor has gotten pretty bad, I can still taste the flavor that is in the tank, but I'm just getting a burnt taste. Not sure what the problem is. Does anyone have any advice to fix this?
P.S. - The coil that is in the tank is practically new and I have tried cleaning and dry burning it.

 

[BobbyQ]

I think the old kanger heads and the knock off ones use a rubber grommet...does it taste like burnt rubber?
don't dry burn those...
Im not 100% sure about that though

 

[BobbyQ]

What is the resistance of your coil?
What is the pg/vg ratio of your liquid?
What type of battery are you using?

 

[kiwisoop]

What is the resistance of your coil?
What is the pg/vg ratio of your liquid?
What type of battery are you using?

I think the coil I have in is 1.8 ohms
I use mostly 80/20 PG/VG juice from Mt Baker Vapor
I'm using an 18650 in my K101
And in response to your previous reply, when i did the dry burn I took the rubber gromet and the stem off so I could see when all the gunk was off of the coil.
I've also noticed that the burnt taste is worse with certain flavors, for example when I vape my cinnamon roll juice the burnt taste is really bad whereas with my banana bread flavor it's almost like the burnt taste isn't even there

 

[edyle]

Lately I've been having an issue with my Mini Protank II. I used to absolutely love this tank and it was always my go to vape. But recently the flavor has gotten pretty bad, I can still taste the flavor that is in the tank, but I'm just getting a burnt taste. Not sure what the problem is. Does anyone have any advice to fix this?
P.S. - The coil that is in the tank is practically new and I have tried cleaning and dry burning it.

The coil.
It's all about the coil.

What's the power source?
I saw a recent post somebody was having a problem and it turned out they had their vamo set on mean instead of rms.

 

[edyle]

I think the coil I have in is 1.8 ohms
I use mostly 80/20 PG/VG juice from Mt Baker Vapor
I'm using an 18650 in my K101
And in response to your previous reply, when i did the dry burn I took the rubber gromet and the stem off so I could see when all the gunk was off of the coil.
I've also noticed that the burnt taste is worse with certain flavors, for example when I vape my cinnamon roll juice the burnt taste is really bad whereas with my banana bread flavor it's almost like the burnt taste isn't even there

So you're using a mech;

That means you're vaping blind.

You don't know the coil resistance;

right now I am vaping on a coil I wrapped a few days ago; it sometimes reads 2.9ohm on my vamo but if I screw down too tight it shorts out to 1.1 ohm or less; it uses one of the newer soft silicone grommets on the bottom so theres a bit of springyness where the bottom of the atomizer head touches the top of the battery positive pole and that slight movement makes the coil wire shift inside the atomizer head causing a short.

If I take the tank off and measure the resistance I'll get 2.9 ohms but if I screw the tank down too tight on the vamo, and check it with the vamo, it will read less.

I'd guess your coil is shorting sometimes while you vape.

 

[DavidOck]

I think BobbyQ was referring to the small insulator at the base of the head, not the cup on the chimney. Over zealous dry burning can scorch some of them, and that can lead to the "rubbery" taste.

I've also found that the PT2 mini is very sensitive to power levels. Some of my flavors don't work at all well at a power that's great in a bigger glasso. Of course, with the 101 you're going to vape at whatever the coil and battery values are. So if you've just gone from, say, a 2.4 to the 1.8, that might be related.

 

[kiwisoop]

I think BobbyQ was referring to the small insulator at the base of the head, not the cup on the chimney. Over zealous dry burning can scorch some of them, and that can lead to the "rubbery" taste.

I've also found that the PT2 mini is very sensitive to power levels. Some of my flavors don't work at all well at a power that's great in a bigger glasso. Of course, with the 101 you're going to vape at whatever the coil and battery values are. So if you've just gone from, say, a 2.4 to the 1.8, that might be related.

Is there any chance it could be the battery I'm using? Right now the only battery I have is the Kamry 18650, but I did order a Sony VTC4 for when I get my IGO-W and start building sub-ohm.

 

[edyle]

I think BobbyQ was referring to the small insulator at the base of the head, not the cup on the chimney. Over zealous dry burning can scorch some of them, and that can lead to the "rubbery" taste.

I've also found that the PT2 mini is very sensitive to power levels. Some of my flavors don't work at all well at a power that's great in a bigger glasso. Of course, with the 101 you're going to vape at whatever the coil and battery values are. So if you've just gone from, say, a 2.4 to the 1.8, that might be related.

Two very important points there; both of them impacted by the fact that you're using a mech:

1: when I dry burn my coils, once the coil steams the liquids off and starts to glow, I drop the power down to 3.0 watts, and finish my dry burning at low power. I'f you're dryburning on a mech you're running at whatever high power it happens to be for the coil ohms on it. Easier to burn the grommett at the bottom.

2: when using a mech you have to pay attention to the ohms of your replacement coils.
At 3.7 nominal volts:
a 2.4 ohm coil burns 5.7 watts
a 1.8 ohm coil burns 7.6 watts

That's a 33% increase in power.

 

[edyle]

Is there any chance it could be the battery I'm using? Right now the only battery I have is the Kamry 18650, but I did order a Sony VTC4 for when I get my IGO-W and start building sub-ohm.

1:
No.

2:
Great that you're getting an IGO-W, but aside from there being no need to build sub ohm, the fact that you're already flying blind doesn't inspire confidence for your safety.

 

[kiwisoop]

1:
No.

2:
Great that you're getting an IGO-W, but aside from there being no need to build sub ohm, the fact that you're already flying blind doesn't inspire confidence for your safety.

Oh no no no, I'm not going into sub-ohm blind. I ordered an ohms meter for my coil builds. I just didn't know I needed one unless I was building my own coils.

 

[DavidOck]

In any event, dry burning on a mech may be putting too much heat into the process and messing up the coil's bottom insulator.

The meter is important when using a mech, as you really have no other way of telling if the coil is the value it's marked, or even shorted. Regulated mods have protection in the electronics (up to a point, and when working properly - the usual case), and ways to read the resistance of the topper. Mechs have none of that - without a meter you are flying blind.

 

[edyle]

Oh no no no, I'm not going into sub-ohm blind. I ordered an ohms meter for my coil builds. I just didn't know I needed one unless I was building my own coils.

I strongly recommend getting a regulated mod like the vamo for example;
- anytime I get something not going quite right I can just push a button and see the actual working resistance of my coil ohms or check the battery voltage;
- sometime my build is wicking really well and tending to flood, so I just up the wattage;
- sometimes I stuff lots of wick to make sure it doesn't flood, then in that case I vape at lower wattage.

Having an ohm meter for your coil builds is important but once you put the coil on the mech, you're flying blind; as I said in a probably too long post, you can get a case where just screwing the miniprotank down on the mod causes the ohms to change because of the soft silicone grommett at the bottom of the atomizer.

 

[kiwisoop]

I strongly recommend getting a regulated mod like the vamo for example;
- anytime I get something not going quite right I can just push a button and see the actual working resistance of my coil ohms or check the battery voltage;
- sometime my build is wicking really well and tending to flood, so I just up the wattage;
- sometimes I stuff lots of wick to make sure it doesn't flood, then in that case I vape at lower wattage.

Having an ohm meter for your coil builds is important but once you put the coil on the mech, you're flying blind; as I said in a probably too long post, you can get a case where just screwing the miniprotank down on the mod causes the ohms to change because of the soft silicone grommett at the bottom of the atomizer.

I used to have a vamo and it broke on me. The main reason I'm not going to buy a regulated device again, or at least for a while, is because I'm getting into sub-ohm vaping and I wouldn't even be able to use the regulated device with my RDA.