Protank II rebuild, harder than it looks?

[PoeDung]

I received my Protank II today along with 30 ga kanthal and 2mm silica. It's harder than the youtube videos make it look. I've tried 4, 5, & 6 wraps. I got a 1.0 ohm reading with the 4 wraps, & 0 with everything else. I tried wrapping it around a mini screw driver and directly around the silica.

Got any tips for someone just starting to rebuild?

 

[BillyWJ]

A 0 reading says to me that the leads on the coil are touching the sides of the head, and shorting out. It's okay, I did the same the first time I rebuilt some - I've done 3 batches now, and they're all working like a champ, and the one issue I was having was making sure the coil wasn't touching either the sides of the head, or the cap - it's delicate. Your coils might be too small, too, if you're only getting 1 ohm from 6 wraps.

Be patient, it's just a matter of practice.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

First off, I think 32g would be easier, I use 5 wraps on the top, 4 underneath with 32g and get 2.2 ohms. It is harder than it looks because you don't have much space. I use Ekowool and stick a sewing needle through the center of the Ekowool, wrap my coils and leave the needle in until I'm finished. I set the coil back into the channel of the head pull 1 wire tight and bend it over the bottom side. I stick the other 1 through the insulator and insert that with my thumb over the coil, making sure it stays flat in the channel. Then I bend the other wire over the opposite side of the channel (the other side opposite of the first wire) and insert the positive pin. Then I inspect it to make sure none of the coils are touching the metal body, that will cause a short. Only after I'm happy with it do I finally remove the pin.

The pin provides 2 things:
1. It provides stability when wrapping
2. It makes sure your coil sits not too deep and not to high in the head.

If the coil sits too high it can short against the chimney. Too low it can taste burnt, possibly burning the rubber insulator.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Steve

 

[Burnie]

First off, I think 32g would be easier, I use 5 wraps on the top, 4 underneath with 32g and get 2.2 ohms. It is harder than it looks because you don't have much space. I use Ekowool and stick a sewing needle through the center of the Ekowool, wrap my coils and leave the needle in until I'm finished. I set the coil back into the channel of the head pull 1 wire tight and bend it over the bottom side. I stick the other 1 through the insulator and insert that with my thumb over the coil, making sure it stays flat in the channel. Then I bend the other wire over the opposite side of the channel (the other side opposite of the first wire) and insert the positive pin. Then I inspect it to make sure none of the coils are touching the metal body, that will cause a short. Only after I'm happy with it do I finally remove the pin.

The pin provides 2 things:
1. It provides stability when wrapping
2. It makes sure your coil sits not too deep and not to high in the head.

If the coil sits too high it can short against the chimney. Too low it can taste burnt, possibly burning the rubber insulator.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Steve

What he said ^^^^

Also these work good $6.80 Replacement Wicks and Wires for Rebuildable Atomizer 50-pack - 2.0ohm / w/plastic case at FastTech (but unwrap to 5 wraps and use the pin in them also)

Vape On

 

[Mariopainballer]

youtube is your saviour!

 

[mgalyan]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...avide-micro-coil-build-first-attempt-win.html

 

[mgalyan]

Im doing one as I type this lol..

 

[rdwilliamson]

I usually do a 10/9 wrap macro/micro (never can get these straight) coil with 30awg on a 20 gauge syringe tip. Comes out to around 2 ohms. I also use cotton for wicking. Check out Rip Trippers ProTank build.

 

[mgalyan]

Find something slightly smaller than a 5/64 drill bit. I'm using the thinnest piece of a micro screwdriver set. Its pretty thin.

Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD using Tapatalk

 

[RubyRoo]

Well, here's how I rebuild my Protank heads:

1) 32 gauge wire, 4/5 wrap around a 1/16th drill bit.
2) Place the coil with the drill bit still inserted, into the cup. Ensure that the coil is not touching the sides of the metal cup.
3) Insert the insulator, then insert the pin.
4) Remove the drill bit and clip the leads. Check resistance, I always get 1.7 Ohms with this build.
5) Wick organic cotton ball through the coil. Pull enough cotton through the coil for it to catch on the coil and pull though with just a little resistance. Clip at the outer edge of the cup. Add a teeny tiny flavor wick on top to prevent flooding.
6) Drip some juice on the coil, reassemble, and vape your face off.

 

[jffvera]

It's soooo much easier doing micro coils with cotton on the PT/EVOD heads, especially when you are first starting. The cup doesn't offer much real estate so hand wrapping around silica can prove to be EXCEEDINGLY difficult for your first time.

I use 32 gauge wrapped around a 1/16th drill bit. Torch it between some tweezers to make sure there is nice contact, but no overlaps. Slide it back on the drill bit, position it in the cup. Carefully insert the rubber groment, then the pin. Thread some cotton through it, drop the chimney on and it's good to go.

Here's the video for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s He uses 28 gauge, you are fine with 32, just do fewer wraps.

 

[mgalyan]

Just built this 5 mins ago. 28g, 12 wraps.

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[Sthur]

I use 1/16 bit, 30 guage ,8/9 wrap micro coil ,1.8 ohms ,and cotton. No flavor wick and flip grommet over. Cotton with microcoils is best build IMO.

Try it and join the Cotton Club

 

[nostinkies]

If a cotton ball proves to be trying, you can try my method. I cut a 2inch piece of peaches and cream yarn and remove one strand out of it. Then lick the end and it will thread easily into the 1/16th" hole of the coil. Leave it hanging out the sides for now. Lay the one piece you removed over the coil and then snap the "chimney" back on. Now you can trim the yarn even with the edge of the atty. You dont need to drip juice on it at all. A couple of gentle primer puffs and hit the button.

Now, I've been doing this for the last 2 months. BUT today I got my KFL+ and I think the 3 protanks I have are going to get cleaned and put away. They'll be lucky if I dont put them in the trash. I've built probably 75 protank coils and I'm sick of the so so vapor production and muted flavors. They got me off the stinkies, but now I want quality. Rebuilding the PT coils is good practice, but I really think building the KFL+ is actually wayyy easier!

One last point about rebuilding the protank coils..... Once you have the coil installed in it's home and before you put cotton or whatever in it, take a moment and screw it onto the base and onto your mod or ego etc... Fire it up and watch it glow. By heating it, you can use your tweezers to tighten up the coils. (do this part with your finger off the trigger.. duh.) ;-)

 

[SmoKnoMoCigZ]

Well, here's how I rebuild my Protank heads:

1) 32 gauge wire, 4/5 wrap around a 1/16th drill bit.
2) Place the coil with the drill bit still inserted, into the cup. Ensure that the coil is not touching the sides of the metal cup.
3) Insert the insulator, then insert the pin.
4) Remove the drill bit and clip the leads. Check resistance, I always get 1.7 Ohms with this build.
5) Wick organic cotton ball through the coil. Pull enough cotton through the coil for it to catch on the coil and pull though with just a little resistance. Clip at the outer edge of the cup. Add a teeny tiny flavor wick on top to prevent flooding.
6) Drip some juice on the coil, reassemble, and vape your face off.

i do the same except i use a tiny allen wrench as i had no drill bits small enough and i use no flavor wick. make sure the coil is centered in the cup. make sure one leg is outside the insulator and the other inside the insulator.

 

[andycaps31]

Check out Rip trippers youtube channel. The use of a micro coil and cotton wick (organic of course) allows you to wrap the coil and then wick after the coil is in place. I use this technique to build RDA, and have also built my friends a few protank heads. Just make sure the coil is not touching anywhere inside the metal cup or you will have a short.

 

[bizzal]

I usually do a 10/9 wrap macro/micro (never can get these straight) coil with 30awg on a 20 gauge syringe tip. Comes out to around 2 ohms. I also use cotton for wicking. Check out Rip Trippers ProTank build.

I second that! Rip Trippers was the first video i watched and it was super easy (and fun) to build my first set of coils for my PT2 Mini and EVOD clearos... i didnt have any needles around so i used a 1/16" drill bit to wrap coils around. Works beautifully. 10 coils = 1.9 Ohm, used organic cotton thru the coil with another piece on top as the flavor wick. Super tasty juice!

 

[StarDose]

Micro coils and cotton are great for protanks, I've gotten lazy and buy 1.5ohm heads for my pt lately to use with my mechs when Im too busy to use my rdas. Still waiting for my rocket and fogger 2 in the mail which should be fun.

 

[PoeDung]

How's this for 7 wraps of 30ga on a 1/16 screw driver?

Would I just place that in the head & then wind up some cotton & place it through?

 

[nostinkies]

Yup.. lay that thing in the gap and install the grommet and pin. Then feed the cotton through it and youre done.