Protecting threads
- Thread starter Zutankhamun
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Any product to lubricate threads will also attract gunk. Probably best to leave the threads clean. DON'T use any type of conductive lubricant in the connector area!
Don't overtighten devices and no cross-threading. Stainless steel threading lasts longest; brass and copper are soft and will wear MUCH quicker.
Don't overtighten devices and no cross-threading. Stainless steel threading lasts longest; brass and copper are soft and will wear MUCH quicker.
Polite conversation............oh, wait - wrong threads.
Some use Noalox, although it was designed to prevent aluminum sizing.
For most metals in mods, Caution is the the best application. Like metals will not seize if properly threaded.
Thread damage will be minimal if following the - Snug is tight enough - approach.
Over tightening causes thread stretch and deformation, leading to eventual failure.
No oils, etc, anywhere near the atomizer.
Some use Noalox, although it was designed to prevent aluminum sizing.
For most metals in mods, Caution is the the best application. Like metals will not seize if properly threaded.
Thread damage will be minimal if following the - Snug is tight enough - approach.
Over tightening causes thread stretch and deformation, leading to eventual failure.
No oils, etc, anywhere near the atomizer.
Cool. I left a mod with no atty on it in a drawer for months. Now nothing will screw on. I can only imagine some ejuice was left by mistake. Will ejuice corrode the threads?
They're probably not corroded but gunked up.
Use a q-tip with a little alcohol to clean them out and let it dry.
I make a point of not screw/unscrewing 510 threads.
I tend to leave the same 510 threaded tank semi permanently on a 510 threaded mod.
That's my method; moreso for the centerpin issues than for the 510 threads themselves.
No such worries with my adjustable centerpin mechs of course, and better yet with my truehybrid.
Truth be told, I've gotton so used to my finicky 3d rda true hybrid that when I got my vtc mini, I pulled out the 510 adapter for the 3d rda and have been using it on the vtc mini; I leave the adapter fixed onto the mod and if I need to clean the rda, I just unscrew it from the m20x0.5 adapter.
I tend to leave the same 510 threaded tank semi permanently on a 510 threaded mod.
That's my method; moreso for the centerpin issues than for the 510 threads themselves.
No such worries with my adjustable centerpin mechs of course, and better yet with my truehybrid.
Truth be told, I've gotton so used to my finicky 3d rda true hybrid that when I got my vtc mini, I pulled out the 510 adapter for the 3d rda and have been using it on the vtc mini; I leave the adapter fixed onto the mod and if I need to clean the rda, I just unscrew it from the m20x0.5 adapter.
Yeah I know. Keep wanting to do it but then I get a new atty and try it on mostly every mod I've got.
I use these
Kepler 510 Finned Heat Sink for Atomizers
Adjustable pin on both upper and lower.
Black is out of stock but looks like silver is available.
Kepler 510 Finned Heat Sink for Atomizers
Adjustable pin on both upper and lower.
Black is out of stock but looks like silver is available.
Yeah thanx @Runamok3x I got 5 from ft. They're cool for everything with a dripper, but make everything too long when using tanks imo.
This discussion comes up periodically and it seems people differ with their opinions on this one.
I used to lube all threads with noalox (because I read that I should) and now I keep all threads clean and don't apply anything. The only time I apply noalox now is when I have an aluminium mod.
I used to lube all threads with noalox (because I read that I should) and now I keep all threads clean and don't apply anything. The only time I apply noalox now is when I have an aluminium mod.
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