I just got a Provari and I do not really like how hard you have to suck on it. If I put the same protank back on my ego, you barely have to suck. I'm sorry maybe suck is not the right word, but you get what I mean 
Provari Disappointment Question
- Thread starter Walter White
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Oh, and I left a key point out. yes I know changing the voltage will make the draw better, but simply going from 3.5 to 3.9 leaves a horrid burnt taste in my moth. My Atty is 2.1 ohms BTW.
Both my protank I and protank II seem to allow me to tighten them to the point where I cannot draw AT ALL. I find that if I loosen them up (quite) a bit I wind up with a fairly reasonable draw (and a wobbly tank) - the end result is I dont often use my protanks anymore. I've swapped to mostly using iclear16's and vivi nova's
Have you tried any other juice attachments on your Provari? It could be a minor incompatibility issue with the connections.
I loved my iTaste MVP, but I couldn't get any of my favored cartotanks (with Ikenvape cartos) to make an electrical connection on it, with or without the beauty ring.
I loved my iTaste MVP, but I couldn't get any of my favored cartotanks (with Ikenvape cartos) to make an electrical connection on it, with or without the beauty ring.
Ask a moderator to move your thread to the Provari forum. You will get more/better answers about Provari issues there. AIRC there are certain devices that don't play nice with the Provari 510 connector. At the same time I know a lotta people using PT's on them so there must be a fix for it.
Try another delivery device.
then, if same, send back for a look see.
I have noticed that in some non mechanical mods, all the circuitry can cut down on the "hit" if there is something wrong IN or near the atty connector.
Many atty connectors have problems with the pins, inside seals, how they connect to the wriing, etc. It would not be unheard of to have one that is not quite right.
then, if same, send back for a look see.
I have noticed that in some non mechanical mods, all the circuitry can cut down on the "hit" if there is something wrong IN or near the atty connector.
Many atty connectors have problems with the pins, inside seals, how they connect to the wriing, etc. It would not be unheard of to have one that is not quite right.
I don't have a Protank but I assume that the airhole is on the 510 connection (the threads that screw on the provari). If centerpole is recessed, you have to screw in connection fully to make contact with positive centerpole leaving no way for air to enter. If the positive center pole of the protank is adjustable, make it protrude a bit past the end of the 510 threads so that there is a gap for air to enter the airhole.
The provari doesn't have airslot cuts in the top cap, so some devices that draws the air through the 510 connection doesn't work too well on it. There are some 3rd party extensions for the provari, like the "hippo" which solves this problem, although making the provari a tad taller.
I just got a Provari and I do not really like how hard you have to suck on it. If I put the same protank back on my ego, you barely have to suck. I'm sorry maybe suck is not the right word, but you get what I mean
Try a Protank II, I've never used the original but the II has reliefs cut in the base for air flow.
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Or you can use a 510 to 510 adapter to raise your atty, tank.
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Oh you done did it now...the Provarinati are gonna getcha!
Don't have one but the top of the Provari is flat and smooth right, no air notches to allow airflow to pass if the tank is screwed down tight metal to metal?
Not to be a monster or not..but would zinging two teeny airflow channels in the top allow better airflow under the tank?
That's like sacrilege talking like that I know!!
How dare you think of modding a Provari
Don't have one but the top of the Provari is flat and smooth right, no air notches to allow airflow to pass if the tank is screwed down tight metal to metal?
Not to be a monster or not..but would zinging two teeny airflow channels in the top allow better airflow under the tank?
That's like sacrilege talking like that I know!!
How dare you think of modding a Provari
I'm using a protank on my Provari right now and it's working fine. I rebuild protank coils, and I have noticed that occasionally, something in the build will mess up the airflow. Something about that little rubber post insulator that goes into the bottom of the coil head can sometimes seal up the air flow. I don't think I've ever had a factory coil do that though. I'm not saying that's your problem, but just something to consider, that it may just be an isolated issue with a particular coil head.
I just got a Provari and I do not really like how hard you have to suck on it. If I put the same protank back on my ego, you barely have to suck. I'm sorry maybe suck is not the right word, but you get what I mean
I'm sorry you're having difficulties. If the issues is a tight draw, the problem is with how the Protank is connecting to the battery device, not the battery device itself. You might have the same connection problem with a Vamo, Zmax, whatever. The connector on the eGo hasn't got a "well" around it, so there is nothing to impede the airflow.
Protanks, like much of the other vape gear we use, are mass-produced with minimal quality control. I've read of people having poor airflow, as you've experienced, but more seem to have too airy of a draw. I have to use airflow restriction on all 3 of my Protanks when I use them on a ProVari or Vamo. In your case, I would suggest trying a 510 to 510 adaptor.
Is that what you meant to write?
You did leave out a couple of key points: the pg/vg ratio of your juice; how long you have been using the same head (my guess is you meant the Protanks head when you wrote "atty"); have you ever cleaned the head?
If juice tastes burnt when you increase the power, what's it like when you don't increase the power?
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You should not need to do this. I use Protanks with my ProVari all the time. The base of the Protank has little air slots in it to avoid this exact situation. You got a genuine Protank there or is it possibly a knock off?
See the air slots? If you don't have those, it could be the issue. In any case...
For Gods sake, man, don't go boring holes into your ProVari!
DO IIIIIIIT!
No...put air relief vents on your sub $100 tank! If you screw up...well...you get the picture
You should not need to do this. I use Protanks with my ProVari all the time. The base of the Protank has little air slots in it to avoid this exact situation. You got a genuine Protank there or is it possibly a knock off?
See the air slots? If you don't have those, it could be the issue. In any case...
For Gods sake, man, don't go boring holes into your ProVari!
Its not the air channels, its the Provari's 510 connection.
The 510 connection has air slots in it. There is an egress for air there. I am vaping that ProVari with that tank right now, and it draws perfectly, so there is something else going on in the OPs case...
Tapped out
Tapped out
Ehhhh, I'm not crazy about the PTII. But I've run across OPs issue on mine. If I torque it down all the way, the PTs channels don't line up with the slots on the 510 and there is ZERO draw. ZILCH.
If I back it off a tad, it works fine.
If I back it off a tad, it works fine.
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