Provari Mini with Kanger Protank - Metallic-ey taste

[BK_Malik]

I am having the same issue with my ProTank. It taste awful. I also don't like how light the pull is. Does anybody know of a way to block a few of the air holes? I love my Vivi Nova but I hate the fact you have to continue to rotate the tank to make sure the juice covers the wicks.

I saw either a Grimm Green or P. Busardo video where they said you can block one or more of the air holes with a toothpick and cut it off with an x-acto or box cutter. Supposed to work well. I'm still waiting for my Protank but I'll most probably be doing that as I hate a light airy draw.

 

[Rickstick]

I'm getting the same metallic taste from my new protank as well :-(
Well try the 50/50 solution first chance I get . Thanks again!

***UPDATE***


Happy to say that the metallic-ey taste is no longer an issue! It was definitely the tank. I took it apart & boiled it in water AGAIN, after not being successful the first time, with the metal taste still lingering. Then I put it in a bowl of half white vinegar half water & let it sit over night. I read online that this is a method used to remove the metal taste from SS water canisters. But it worked & is now vaping great!! Hope this helps for anyone having the same issue with the protank!

 

[CGustav]

I have the same (or similar) issue with the Protank.
It's been about 2wks+ since I got it. It is not my main vape, but I probably went over 6-7 fills. Still tastes funny.
I thoroughly cleaned it the first time I got it and couple of more times afterwards. The taste/smell is very strong and the juices I like in evod or gennies I am almost putting up with in this tank.
I am actually suspecting the glue used in this tank to attach the glass to the metal parts. Maybe glued part is exposed to the liquid?
Either that or the finishing on the metal is off for some reason.

I will give the vinegar method a try but if it is the glue that is exposed I am not sure acid treatment would be the best idea.

 

[immortality]

The ideal watts when vaping is 6-8 watts. This will vary if you have a low or high resistant atty. Volts x Volts divided by ohms gives you watts and Volts divided by Ohms gives you amps. With high resistant atty/ohms should be around 1.5amps and 6-7watts and with low resistant atty/ohms amp can be around 2amps 6-8 watts with a better tasting vape when compared to high resistant. This will take care of that metal taste or burnt taste.

 

[sonicdsl]

Moved to Clearomizers from New Members

 

[unseenme]

I have a Protank and love it but it's too airy for me as well. I washed it before initial use and had the metallic taste. Before I could boil it and soak it I started having the problem of the top separating from the glass. I dropped a little Krazy Glue on it and attached it back but it still leaks. I've ordered a Tatroe tank and EVOD heads to replace it. I heard the EVOD heads help with the airy draw and I'm hoping the Tatroe does too. Since the Tatroe is stainless should I boil and soak it as well? I have an iClear that I'm gonna do the same with because of the metal tip. Anyone have a Tatroe they have experience with?

*sent from a Galaxy not so far away*

 

[evolv3]

I have the same (or similar) issue with the Protank.
It's been about 2wks+ since I got it. It is not my main vape, but I probably went over 6-7 fills. Still tastes funny.
I thoroughly cleaned it the first time I got it and couple of more times afterwards. The taste/smell is very strong and the juices I like in evod or gennies I am almost putting up with in this tank.
I am actually suspecting the glue used in this tank to attach the glass to the metal parts. Maybe glued part is exposed to the liquid?
Either that or the finishing on the metal is off for some reason.

I will give the vinegar method a try but if it is the glue that is exposed I am not sure acid treatment would be the best idea.

Im wondering if this is the root problem (unless you have bad head). I have 6 of these things, 1 doa due to bad cement/silicone so it leaks. Remaining worked great for a month. I noticed they all start to get a little crooked after awhile which I think was due to leaving in the car (its florida and its cooking right about now). The cement/silicone or what ever it is has started to fail on almost all of them. So much so that I just pulled the "threaded bottom" SS piece right from the pyrex with not much force. Its actually pretty scary as all the juice I have been using is thoroughly soaked into that cement/silicone stuff. Im wondering if I have been vaping this stuff and giving the metallic taste? Im going to try to rebuild two this weekend and see if I can get them to work better with a new "food safe" silicone adhesive I found (says good till 400 degrees?). Trying to boil them now so that I can get the glue to dissolve around the top SS piece so I can remove it too, that piece was a little better attached. Then try to clean the remaining off and put a good seal on with the new adhesive and give it 48hr + cure as directions say. Im thoroughly disgusted right now because these work pretty good for a few weeks and were not much hassle to keep up which I need as I run a business and don't have time to play with toys all day (wish I did! ). That said, I looked at the dbox purity tanks but im wondering if they have the same issues so im scared to use them too unless someone can let them sit in their car in 90+ degree weather and let me know that they don't loosen, leak, and go crooked from cement failing. Im think the tatroe tanks would be the best alternative due to the no cement/silicone to keep pieces together. They are expensive though... Anyone else with similar experiences? Thoughts?

 

[evolv3]

Well I don't know if its mental or not but I think I noticed a faint smell of that "burnt metallic taste" in the vapor coming from the pot I had them boiling in. I hope that's a good sign.

Still needs another round or two of boiling which I will do when I get back home later today. But it did allow me to remove the left over cement on the "weakly attached" pieces and pyrex pretty easily and they are cleaned up. I want to redo the whole tank so I want to try to get the pieces off and cleaned that are actually firmly attached as well. Seems to be different on each tank... 1 the threaded part is weak and on another the top mouth piece was weak. Bad cement or bad QC and they are just not using enough on some as they make them?

I want to add to my post above..... I do NOT leave them in the car for a full day in the hot sun, mainly 1-3 hrs at most as I drive around a bit through out the day to different jobs with ac on and such. So 1-3 hrs seems to be a pretty lame amount of time that one of these things can handle.

 

[CGustav]

I have the same (or similar) issue with the Protank.
It's been about 2wks+ since I got it. It is not my main vape, but I probably went over 6-7 fills. Still tastes funny.
I thoroughly cleaned it the first time I got it and couple of more times afterwards. The taste/smell is very strong and the juices I like in evod or gennies I am almost putting up with in this tank.
I am actually suspecting the glue used in this tank to attach the glass to the metal parts. Maybe glued part is exposed to the liquid?
Either that or the finishing on the metal is off for some reason.

I will give the vinegar method a try but if it is the glue that is exposed I am not sure acid treatment would be the best idea.

I thought I should give a follow up on the cleaning process.

I went ahead and hooked the Protank up with a 50% white vinegar (diluted with distilled water) bath overnight, followed by a boil (in the same bath). The metallic taste is almost gone. (Probably completely gone, I think I am just haunted by the ghost of it).

Happy camper here. I suggest everyone having similar issues with it to give that a try.

ps: I just received a Terminator-C and dug it in vinegar right away, after a warm wash.

 

[CGustav]

Im wondering if this is the root problem (unless you have bad head). I have 6 of these things, 1 doa due to bad cement/silicone so it leaks. Remaining worked great for a month. I noticed they all start to get a little crooked after awhile which I think was due to leaving in the car (its florida and its cooking right about now). The cement/silicone or what ever it is has started to fail on almost all of them. So much so that I just pulled the "threaded bottom" SS piece right from the pyrex with not much force. Its actually pretty scary as all the juice I have been using is thoroughly soaked into that cement/silicone stuff. Im wondering if I have been vaping this stuff and giving the metallic taste? Im going to try to rebuild two this weekend and see if I can get them to work better with a new "food safe" silicone adhesive I found (says good till 400 degrees?). Trying to boil them now so that I can get the glue to dissolve around the top SS piece so I can remove it too, that piece was a little better attached. Then try to clean the remaining off and put a good seal on with the new adhesive and give it 48hr + cure as directions say. Im thoroughly disgusted right now because these work pretty good for a few weeks and were not much hassle to keep up which I need as I run a business and don't have time to play with toys all day (wish I did! ). That said, I looked at the dbox purity tanks but im wondering if they have the same issues so im scared to use them too unless someone can let them sit in their car in 90+ degree weather and let me know that they don't loosen, leak, and go crooked from cement failing. Im think the tatroe tanks would be the best alternative due to the no cement/silicone to keep pieces together. They are expensive though... Anyone else with similar experiences? Thoughts?

Hi evolv. I completely agree with your concerns about this tank. As I have just posted, vinegar treatment seems to have solved my most immediate issue. But I am still not fully convinced in the gluing and the variance they seem to have with these.

Puritank probably has similar process. I guess the issue is that having threads and screwing it together is not possible with pyrex. But is pyrex really an achievement (being chemically stable) here if we are exposed to the glue material?

If someone comes up with a different design (like using o-rings) or a different material (like PET?) I will be very interested in buying a couple.

 

[evolv3]

Hi evolv. I completely agree with your concerns about this tank. As I have just posted, vinegar treatment seems to have solved my most immediate issue. But I am still not fully convinced in the gluing and the variance they seem to have with these.

Puritank probably has similar process. I guess the issue is that having threads and screwing it together is not possible with pyrex. But is pyrex really an achievement (being chemically stable) here if we are exposed to the glue material?

If someone comes up with a different design (like using o-rings) or a different material (like PET?) I will be very interested in buying a couple.

Yea were thinking alike. Not sure if its just kanger's process or the process itself yet as I didn't have time to glue mine back together yet. I want to make sure I do it as clean and secure as possible before I attempt so been trying to think it out a little.

A pair of mine seem to work great with no real issues short of leaking after left in the car, but pretty much any of the kangers do this from my understanding.

Been looking at other designs to but Im scared to take the plunge as I got a feeling they are all pretty much come down to the same thing: How much care is given in the assembly with glue and additional pieces. Mainly Puritytank, kamry x9, and pyrex vivi nova. I wonder if you could embed the metal pieces directly in the pyrex without glue during the forming of the pyrex somehow while its still pliable? Although on a thin piece of pyrex I could see that this may be easier to break them off. Was also thinking about some sort of buffer between the bottom of the pyrex and metal base such as an o-ring or something that would provide a barrier to loose glue entering the juice chamber.

I have notice some of mine don't have a solid, even layer of glue around them. I can see pockets in the glue where its attached (air bubbles, some bigger than others), maybe this is why they fail?

 

[CGustav]

I think so. Their process on this one is not mature enough I guess.

With T3's for example, leaks were caused, mostly from the imperfect seal at the mouthpiece part. Then they fixed it with EVOD and the Protank.

Maybe next revisions will be better. I have only one Protank right now and I will refrain from buying more until these are resolved, or some other similar tanks pop-up. (Like the Puritank). I would be happy if they make an evod with Protank form factor

 

[Gargy777]

I have two of these and I'm having the same problem with the metallic taste and initially thought it must be the wicks till I found this thread.

The only vinegar I have is balsamic lol and it's not easy for me to go buy some, I wonder if just boiling the protank would help at all? How long should I boil it for?