Question about RDA

[StarsAndBars]

What's up guys? I'm really thinking about ordering an Igo-L for my MVP Version 1. I have never used an rda, so I'm not really sure how to start. I've been watching a ton of videos, and it looks easy enough. My question is, has anyone tried ribbon wire on the Igo-L and used it on an MVP? Would ribbon wire perform any differently than regular Kanthal wire?

I just don't want to get something that will be too difficult to keep in the 2 ohm range. My MVP seems to be shutting off from time to time with the Iclears, so I certainly don't want to make the situation worse with low res.

What would you guys recommend for a guy just looking to get into rda, who will be using it 90 percent of the time on the MVP? Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated.

 

[handdrive]

Get lots of wire, wick, and juice in a few sizes and flavors and go for it. Its not hard to do but I found it takes time and effort to find a coil and wick combo you like. I personally have mine setup with dual coil 2ohm with cotton and love it. Tried ss, ecowool, silica, cotton combinations of each with everything from microcoil to subohm and everything in between. Just dont give up and youll get it.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[rotku]

I just bought an Igo-L RDA to try it out, first timer. I purchased some 28g Kanthal A-1 (local B&M) and Sterile cotton (CVS). That was really all it took. I watched a couple "microcoil" videos and did a 12 wrap 1.4 ohm. Insert some cotton, drip some juice, and presto super easy. The difference in flavor and vapor volume will JUMP right out at you. I use mine on a VAMO and have starting making some higher resistance coils 1.8- 2.0.

 

[Thrasher]

for the first time i would get some 3mm silica double it up and 4 wraps of 32g for around 2 ohms will give you plenty of vapor. very easy to do. simple really take the wick and a paperclip wrap it up, attach, pull the clip out adjust the coil to sit in front of the airhole and fill.

then when you feel confident and want to play you can try the different wires, microcoils, cotton etc

 

[StarsAndBars]

Thanks for the replies guys. I just got in from class, and without checking this thread first, I ordered some 32 g kanthal, 3mm wick, and the atty from altsmoke. It should be here in a few days, so I'll report back.

Thanks again.

 

[State O' Flux]

Here's a handy little chart of "ohms per inch" for Kanthal A1. Gives you a ballpark idea of what to expect with various sizes of wire. Mostly, we use 28, 30 & 32... but some play with the larger and smaller wire. (These values are rounded to the tenth of an Ω)

28 awg (Ω/in) 0.4 ohms
30 awg (Ω/in) 0.7 ohms
31 awg (Ω/in) 0.9 ohms
32 awg (Ω/in) 1.2 ohms
33 awg (Ω/in) 1.4 ohms
34 awg (Ω/in) 1.8 ohms

 

[StarsAndBars]

^Wow! Thanks for that info dude.

 

[muzichead]

Check out the forum sub-section for any and all info you need.... Rebuildable Atomizer Systems

 

[State O' Flux]

My MVP seems to be shutting off from time to time with the Iclears

Re-read your post and caught this. Want to tell us about it... or if you prefer, start a thread in the "VV APV sub forum" to get a good selection of possible issues/fixes from a variety of owners.
"Shutting off" covers a pretty broad spectrum. Might be 510 contact at atty or device, might be the button... might be "other". I hate it when it's "other". ;-)

 

[retired1]

Moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems

 

[StarsAndBars]

Yeah man. I will hold the button to take a toot and it will not fire. From this point I will just press the fire button 3 times to power the device back on, and it works (until this process has to be repeated). At first I thought that my iclear had dropped in resistance and was throwing the over current shut off. I tried a new iclear, and the result did not change.

I was reading a thread last night about someone having this problem with an Itaste 134 ( I think that's what it's called). They said it would shut off very much the same way my MVP is doing, and they discovered it was due to the fire button being only partially pressed when vaping. Since that I have been consciously depressing the fire button fully and it has only happened once.

 

[State O' Flux]

I was reading a thread last night about someone having this problem with an Itaste 134 ( I think that's what it's called). They said it would shut off very much the same way my MVP is doing, and they discovered it was due to the fire button being only partially pressed when vaping. Since that I have been consciously depressing the fire button fully and it has only happened once.

Innokin seems to have difficulty finding a happy medium between too firm and too soft. I have 3 (wait, I gotta' look... it tends to change) yep, 3 SVDs, 2 VW 3.0s and 2 MVPs in front of me, and only one SVD has a firm enough button that you have to put some weight into it... and you know for a fact that you've released it. The other buttons - so soft that it's almost imperceptible. All three SVDs look the same inside and out... so it's a mystery.