Question about TC (Temperature Control ) and NiCr coil....

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Gahh

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I've been vaping with the Kangertech, Juppi kit for the last two weeks. Love the tank, as you can easily switch out the cotton and get the fresh taste of your juice.
The issue is, The coil has no markings as to its metal,( Kanthal - SS - Ni - Ti - NiCr ). There are few reviews about the Juppi Kit & Tank and some say they think it to be SS. Others said Kanthal, and another says NiCr. SOO.... I emailed Kangertech and they respond telling me its NiCr.
I think Kangertech is behind on the innovations of TC equipment, but as it is, I've been vaping the Juppi tank for two weeks in wattage mode, (40-45 watts.)
After the reply from Kangertech, I switched it to NiCr mode. You can regulate the temperature, but not the wattage in TC mode. It stays at 75watts. I set the temperature to 210 degrees and noticed the tank gets hotter in TC mode than in wattage mode.
I've read and heard so much about never using Ni coils in wattage mode.
The question here is, I'm I wrong to use the wattage mode with the NiCr Juppi coil, as It stays cooler then when used in NiCr mode.
If the TC is working properly on the Juppi mod, It should shut down if the coil reaches 210 degrees, ( CORRECT - or Wrong )
I know there is much concern about vaping Ni, NiCr and Ti coils.
I appreciate all thoughts on this issue.
IMO, The Juppi tank gets 5 of 5 stars for hitting the flavor of the juice. And the price is right!!
 
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Shawn Hoefer

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NiCr = Nichrome... probably Nichrome 80. Perfectly acceptable in wattage mode, and some claim to be able to TC with it.

Ni, as you've mentioned it here, should be written as Ni200... pure nickel. This should ONLY be run in TC mode.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

stols001

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I don't know as much about TC as some, but I would be worried if my TC vape on a coil got hotter than wattage unless I was drastically changing something else. The combination of that coil with KT technology would not be my first choice for TC vaping, though, when I looked for coil wire/rewickable tanks, I stuck with SS (seemed safest) or Ti, (also safer). I'm still just getting used to making coils though, haven't vaped on as yet :)

Anna
 

Letitia

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I don't know as much about TC as some, but I would be worried if my TC vape on a coil got hotter than wattage unless I was drastically changing something else. The combination of that coil with KT technology would not be my first choice for TC vaping, though, when I looked for coil wire/rewickable tanks, I stuck with SS (seemed safest) or Ti, (also safer). I'm still just getting used to making coils though, haven't vaped on as yet :)

Anna
Coils doesn't have to be pretty to use it. Start enjoying the fruits of your labor. My 1st coil was odd, but fired and glowed perfect. Most satisfying vape. Never showed it to anyone, it was .... ugly.
 

stols001

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I'm not too worried about their looks but I do want a 2 post tank to arrive for my first build. I bought "The Russian, 3.0" which I guess has a reputation as being a good MTL tank for builds, but that thing was made in Germany and I think it has 75 pieces to the tank, I'm not kidding! They had an "assembly map" that showed the thing disassembled and.... It reminded me of my VW bug, (the new ones) I have no idea how they got so many pieces into a single tank/car, LOL. It's really of great quality, I just don't think it would be my best build/first option as it's 4 post and pretty small, though I have some other FT stuff that I've not really gazed at/disassembled yet, and may do so, I just don't sub-ohm and I'd like to start out with something a bit simpler.... I believe it is one of the K-tanks or some other clone, but it certainly is a tank I don't plan on losing the user manual on....

I WILL vape the Russian at some point. TBH I liked the look of it and it was so deeply discounted.... Perhaps I should have done more research, but I *WILL* vape it, at some point. If only to say that I could.... And perhaps there is a reason it was so deeply discounted.... Which I am assuming I will also get to find out about, at some point. ;)

Anna
 

IMFire3605

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May 3, 2013
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I've been vaping with the Kangertech, Juppi kit for the last two weeks. Love the tank, as you can easily switch out the cotton and get the fresh taste of your juice.
The issue is, The coil has no markings as to its metal,( Kanthal - SS - Ni - Ti - NiCr ). There are few reviews about the Juppi Kit & Tank and some say they think it to be SS. Others said Kanthal, and another says NiCr. SOO.... I emailed Kangertech and they respond telling me its NiCr.
I think Kangertech is behind on the innovations of TC equipment, but as it is, I've been vaping the Juppi tank for two weeks in wattage mode, (40-45 watts.)
After the reply from Kangertech, I switched it to NiCr mode. You can regulate the temperature, but not the wattage in TC mode. It stays at 75watts. I set the temperature to 210 degrees and noticed the tank gets hotter in TC mode than in wattage mode.
I've read and heard so much about never using Ni coils in wattage mode.
The question here is, I'm I wrong to use the wattage mode with the NiCr Juppi coil, as It stays cooler then when used in NiCr mode.
If the TC is working properly on the Juppi mod, It should shut down if the coil reaches 210 degrees, ( CORRECT - or Wrong )
I know there is much concern about vaping Ni, NiCr and Ti coils.
I appreciate all thoughts on this issue.
IMO, The Juppi tank gets 5 of 5 stars for hitting the flavor of the juice. And the price is right!!


I own a Kanger Kbox 200watt, and it supposedly supports TC mode with NiChrome. However like the Asolo mod I think it was that supposedly supported TC mode with Kanthal A1, the most that happens in TC mode with these two wires is it will detect dry wicking (cotton) only, their TCR is just to high to predict actual temperature accurately compared to Ni200, Titanium T1, and Stainless Steel SS316L wire. Kanger in their infinite non-wisdom programs their mods to go max watts when set into TC mode, where others you adjust not only the temperature cap but also the watts which gives finer control of the vape. It is a nice interesting thought to use Kanthal and NiChrome in TC, but until the resistance readers can accurately detect resistance increase as these two wires get hotter, only benefit to use them in TC mode presently is to stop burning the wicking.

Kanthal A1 - Wattage Mode Only
NiChrome 60 and 80 - Wattage Mode Only
Stainless Steel 316L - Wattage or Temperature Control Mode
Titanium T1 - Temperature Control Mode Only
Nickel Ni200 - Temperature Control Mode Only
 

listopencil

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I'm not too worried about their looks but I do want a 2 post tank to arrive for my first build. I bought "The Russian, 3.0" which I guess has a reputation as being a good MTL tank for builds, but that thing was made in Germany and I think it has 75 pieces to the tank, I'm not kidding! They had an "assembly map" that showed the thing disassembled and.... It reminded me of my VW bug, (the new ones) I have no idea how they got so many pieces into a single tank/car, LOL. It's really of great quality, I just don't think it would be my best build/first option as it's 4 post and pretty small, though I have some other FT stuff that I've not really gazed at/disassembled yet, and may do so, I just don't sub-ohm and I'd like to start out with something a bit simpler.... I believe it is one of the K-tanks or some other clone, but it certainly is a tank I don't plan on losing the user manual on....

I WILL vape the Russian at some point. TBH I liked the look of it and it was so deeply discounted.... Perhaps I should have done more research, but I *WILL* vape it, at some point. If only to say that I could.... And perhaps there is a reason it was so deeply discounted.... Which I am assuming I will also get to find out about, at some point. ;)

Anna

The only thing I have messed with is a 'Velocity' style deck at 22 mm. I had to grab a pair of reading glasses and make sure that I had a decent light source, but it was pretty easy to do. It only has two posts but each post has 2 holes for attaching the legs of the coils. You put a coil on each side of the posts if you want a dual coil build. I wouldn't get hung up on the sub-ohm issue. I would just make sure that your build is safe and that your mod can handle whatever you build, then give it a try.
 
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Gahh

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May 24, 2013
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I'm not too worried about their looks but I do want a 2 post tank to arrive for my first build. I bought "The Russian, 3.0" which I guess has a reputation as being a good MTL tank for builds, but that thing was made in Germany and I think it has 75 pieces to the tank, I'm not kidding! They had an "assembly map" that showed the thing disassembled and.... It reminded me of my VW bug, (the new ones) I have no idea how they got so many pieces into a single tank/car, LOL. It's really of great quality, I just don't think it would be my best build/first option as it's 4 post and pretty small, though I have some other FT stuff that I've not really gazed at/disassembled yet, and may do so, I just don't sub-ohm and I'd like to start out with something a bit simpler.... I believe it is one of the K-tanks or some other clone, but it certainly is a tank I don't plan on losing the user manual on....

I WILL vape the Russian at some point. TBH I liked the look of it and it was so deeply discounted.... Perhaps I should have done more research, but I *WILL* vape it, at some point. If only to say that I could.... And perhaps there is a reason it was so deeply discounted.... Which I am assuming I will also get to find out about, at some point. ;)

Anna
You might want to You Tube the Juppi Tank. The coil has lasted me weeks with no sign coil usage. ( 80-100 ml of juice through it.) I have however re-wicked It a dozen times to get the fresh flavors of my juice. The tank costs $13.00 to $15.00 which I think is a great price.
When re wicking it, I take it apart, ( all six pieces,, lol ), wash it under hot water, pull the wick up with angled tweezers, dry off all parts, lightly torch the coil at the (0.23 ohm coil part,,, you will notice this section easily ), cut a strip of cotton ( 5/8 wide ), pull it in halves, wrap one half around the coil, grab the wick with the angled tweezers,( in the middle of the top tabs ), then slide it down into the coil housing, make sure the coil is seated at the base, and the four top tabs should be clear of any cotton fragments, ( so as when you screw the top on, it presses the four tabs to the top of the coil housing and completes the negative connection.
At this point, put the tank glass on, screw the ( top filling ) mouth piece on, and check that it reads .23 ohm.... If all is good...Pull the mouth piece off, fill the tank, screw it back on and let it sit for 3 minutes to get the wick totally saturated.
Remember, you will need a mod the works with the .23 ohm coil, or you'll get ( low atomizer reading. ) The tank is a little great tank. Excellent Flavor and nice cloud production....
I'm sure you'll be happy.
 

Gahh

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May 24, 2013
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I own a Kanger Kbox 200watt, and it supposedly supports TC mode with NiChrome. However like the Asolo mod I think it was that supposedly supported TC mode with Kanthal A1, the most that happens in TC mode with these two wires is it will detect dry wicking (cotton) only, their TCR is just to high to predict actual temperature accurately compared to Ni200, Titanium T1, and Stainless Steel SS316L wire. Kanger in their infinite non-wisdom programs their mods to go max watts when set into TC mode, where others you adjust not only the temperature cap but also the watts which gives finer control of the vape. It is a nice interesting thought to use Kanthal and NiChrome in TC, but until the resistance readers can accurately detect resistance increase as these two wires get hotter, only benefit to use them in TC mode presently is to stop burning the wicking.

Kanthal A1 - Wattage Mode Only
NiChrome 60 and 80 - Wattage Mode Only
Stainless Steel 316L - Wattage or Temperature Control Mode
Titanium T1 - Temperature Control Mode Only
Nickel Ni200 - Temperature Control Mode Only
 

listopencil

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In Partibus Infidelium
You might want to You Tube the Juppi Tank. The coil has lasted me weeks with no sign coil usage. ( 80-100 ml of juice through it.) I have however re-wicked It a dozen times to get the fresh flavors of my juice. The tank costs $13.00 to $15.00 which I think is a great price.
When re wicking it, I take it apart, ( all six pieces,, lol ), wash it under hot water, pull the wick up with angled tweezers, dry off all parts, lightly torch the coil at the (0.23 ohm coil part,,, you will notice this section easily ), cut a strip of cotton ( 5/8 wide ), pull it in halves, wrap one half around the coil, grab the wick with the angled tweezers,( in the middle of the top tabs ), then slide it down into the coil housing, make sure the coil is seated at the base, and the four top tabs should be clear of any cotton fragments, ( so as when you screw the top on, it presses the four tabs to the top of the coil housing and completes the negative connection.
At this point, put the tank glass on, screw the ( top filling ) mouth piece on, and check that it reads .23 ohm.... If all is good...Pull the mouth piece off, fill the tank, screw it back on and let it sit for 3 minutes to get the wick totally saturated.
Remember, you will need a mod the works with the .23 ohm coil, or you'll get ( low atomizer reading. ) The tank is a little great tank. Excellent Flavor and nice cloud production....
I'm sure you'll be happy.


Heh. I wicked my first ever coil last month using nothing but a fingernail clipper that had a built in slide out nail file. It was ugly, but it worked.
 

Gahh

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Thanks for your input IMFIRE,
The fact is with the Juppi / Kangertech TC Control,, that in TC mode, if you hold the fire button in for extended time, the coil will keep smoking the cotton. It comes out looking like crap and needs to be torched a bit longer, and gently to clean it up...
Summed Up , my thought is that Kangertech has no clear idea about TC control.
 
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Gahh

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May 24, 2013
678
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I don't know as much about TC as some, but I would be worried if my TC vape on a coil got hotter than wattage unless I was drastically changing something else. The combination of that coil with KT technology would not be my first choice for TC vaping, though, when I looked for coil wire/rewickable tanks, I stuck with SS (seemed safest) or Ti, (also safer). I'm still just getting used to making coils though, haven't vaped on as yet :)

Anna
I've been vaping with the Kangertech, Juppi kit for the last two weeks. Love the tank, as you can easily switch out the cotton and get the fresh taste of your juice.
The issue is, The coil has no markings as to its metal,( Kanthal - SS - Ni - Ti - NiCr ). There are few reviews about the Juppi Kit & Tank and some say they think it to be SS. Others said Kanthal, and another says NiCr. SOO.... I emailed Kangertech and they respond telling me its NiCr.
I think Kangertech is behind on the innovations of TC equipment, but as it is, I've been vaping the Juppi tank for two weeks in wattage mode, (40-45 watts.)
After the reply from Kangertech, I switched it to NiCr mode. You can regulate the temperature, but not the wattage in TC mode. It stays at 75watts. I set the temperature to 210 degrees and noticed the tank gets hotter in TC mode than in wattage mode.
I've read and heard so much about never using Ni coils in wattage mode.
The question here is, I'm I wrong to use the wattage mode with the NiCr Juppi coil, as It stays cooler then when used in NiCr mode.
If the TC is working properly on the Juppi mod, It should shut down if the coil reaches 210 degrees, ( CORRECT - or Wrong )
I know there is much concern about vaping Ni, NiCr and Ti coils.
I appreciate all thoughts on this issue.
IMO, The Juppi tank gets 5 of 5 stars for hitting the flavor of the juice. And the price is right!!
 

listopencil

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Jun 28, 2017
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In Partibus Infidelium
Setting the power correctly is essential to TC. With my Pico and proper TC wire, setting the power too high results in a weaker vape.


That makes sense. It gets to the target temp too quickly. There isn't enough time to produce a good vape. I have been learning about TC by using my trusty old Arctic V8 with a nickel coil. I have found that I like it around 25 Watts set to around 450(F). I can play with it like a pipe.
 
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