Questions About APVs - RDA Building

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im so zen

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Dec 29, 2014
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West PA
Hey guys,

I have a Sigelei Zmax v5:
3-6v
3-15w
1.2 ohm lower limit

I also have a Mutation X v2 clone that I want to use on my Zmax. At the moment, I only have 24 and 26 gauge kanthal. I think I'll need 28 gauge if I want to build higher resistance coils effectively.

I was trying last night, and did an 11 wrap on a 5/64 screwdriver, came to about .95 ohms, so obviously I'd need some more wraps with 26ga.

So my questions:

Should I use higher gauge kanthal with fewer wraps, or lower gauge kanthal with more wraps? What would the difference be? Am I right in thinking that the higher gauge, fewer wraps would likely heat up faster?

Also, since the device is regulated, do I need to use the 30A VTC4 I have or will lower amp batteries work, since I'll be relying on wattage over 1.2 ohms?

Finally, what wattage should I use with the coils, particularly while I'm heating them when I'm first building the coils?
 
Fear not. If you want to use your mutation x (not optimal but completely possible) you'll definitely want to get some 30g or 32g kanthal. Otherwise, your coils are giong to take far too long to geat up to be enjoyable. Try googaling steam engine coil calculator and see which diameter/gauge/ohms will give you between 4and 9 wraps for your preference.That should have your heat flux around the 300 range (dripper range).

You can use any wattage to heat and pinch the coils. You'll have to pulse the button anyway as not to pop the coil leg, so lower power might be better. Try the middle of its adjustment range to be safe.

Being restricted to 15w, you shouldn't really be using a dual coil dripper. The v2 Mutation X can be used in single coil mode. Two coils is alot of surface area for for only 15 watts. This being said, as long as you have a name brand 18650 battery, you should be ok.
 
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dimo

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24 and 26 gauge no matter how many wraps normally require more than 15W to heat up in a reasonable time frame, due to the thickness and mass of the wire. On mods like the zmax you should be ok with thiner 28 or 30 awg wire.

On my magma I build a 1.4ohm coil (8 wraps, 28awg) around a 3/32 drill bit. I use the smallest air hole (for mouth to lung) and run my old provari 2.5 maxed out (around 15w) and it's plenty satisfactory for me.

If you want to lung inhale, you may want to start looking for a mod with more power.
 

im so zen

Full Member
Dec 29, 2014
19
5
West PA
Thanks so much guys. That's what I wanted to know. I have a Smok Magneto that I've been using with the MXv2, which works great. I was just wondering about my options.

One question that wasn't answered yet, in the case that I get a better regulated device:

Since the device is regulated, do I need to use the 30A VTC4 (or other safe batteries) I have or will lower amp batteries work, since I'll be relying on wattage over 1 ohm?
 

novamatt

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My Vamo at 40w is only pulling 5.2a.. But its also hitting 7.8v..

This actually isn't how regulated devices work. You're only sending 5.2 amps through the atomizer, but you're pulling about 10.5 amps from the battery. These things are able to push out higher voltages than the battery by running extra current through a circuit that converts it, while the wattage stays the same on both sides of the chip. So with a fully charged battery at 4.2 volts, you're pulling 9.5 amps to get your 40 watts, and the chip tends to lose about 10% or so, which puts you to 10.5ish. As your battery runs down, the current requirement goes up to keep the voltage in the same place, so when you've got a low charge around 3.3 volts, you're pulling closer to 13.5 amps.

This is why high wattage devices always say they require high drain batteries. Steam engine's battery drain calculator breaks it out pretty well on the right hand side.
 

Monotremata

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This actually isn't how regulated devices work. You're only sending 5.2 amps through the atomizer, but you're pulling about 10.5 amps from the battery. These things are able to push out higher voltages than the battery by running extra current through a circuit that converts it, while the wattage stays the same on both sides of the chip. So with a fully charged battery at 4.2 volts, you're pulling 9.5 amps to get your 40 watts, and the chip tends to lose about 10% or so, which puts you to 10.5ish. As your battery runs down, the current requirement goes up to keep the voltage in the same place, so when you've got a low charge around 3.3 volts, you're pulling closer to 13.5 amps.

This is why high wattage devices always say they require high drain batteries. Steam engine's battery drain calculator breaks it out pretty well on the right hand side.
Ahh gotcha! They don't really tell you much about that in the manuals other than "displays current" haha.. Guess I should use Steam Engine more!
 

novamatt

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Ahh gotcha! They don't really tell you much about that in the manuals other than "displays current" haha.. Guess I should use Steam Engine more!

No, they really don't, and the "use only high drain batteries in this device" is almost always in little tiny print somewhere easy to miss. But that extra power has to come from somewhere. We need to do a better job at getting the word out - the vast majority of regulated high wattage users don't know that running a half charged battery at 60 watts looks the same to your battery as a 0.23 ohm coil on a mech. We should know a bit about battery safety, too.
 
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