Questions about lg hg2 amp limit

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Mikereezy

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Hello i am new to this forum and i came for a quick question about the amp limit of lg hg3 3000mah 18650 batteries. I have been using one in my evic vtc mini. I was using a .07 ohm twisted 28g nickel build for a while until i noticed that the amps were jumping from 14-21 in temp control. I know that lg hg2 batterys have a 20 amp continuous limit. But i do not know the pulse limit. I know its dangerous to exceed amp limits but would i be alright with that build or will i need to build higher? On another note would someone explain what pulse amp limits are? Thank you for any response to this post. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated
 

IMFire3605

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Hello i am new to this forum and i came for a quick question about the amp limit of lg hg3 3000mah 18650 batteries. I have been using one in my evic vtc mini. I was using a .07 ohm twisted 28g nickel build for a while until i noticed that the amps were jumping from 14-21 in temp control. I know that lg hg2 batterys have a 20 amp continuous limit. But i do not know the pulse limit. I know its dangerous to exceed amp limits but would i be alright with that build or will i need to build higher? On another note would someone explain what pulse amp limits are? Thank you for any response to this post. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated

The LG HG2 has a CDR (continuous discharge rate) of 20amps, this is the discharge current it can withstand its entire charge or most of the charge without suffering undue damage.

Pulse Discharge Ratings are just that a quick, rapid pulse discharge, and for our purposes more of a placebo, (a false rating) because there is no standard of what that rating should be nor how long this high rapid pulse should be sustained. Some manufacturers it can be 500milliseconds (half a second) while the next could be 2000milliseconds (2 seconds). In your situation though, bouncing between 12 to 22amps you can dampen the impact as much as you can. Using Watts Law, Power (Wattage) / lowest battery charge (this is generally between 3.0 to 3.6 volts depending on the mod) = Current (amps)
If you have the firmware upgrade either 2.0 or 3.0 firmware you max wattage is 75watts, ver 1.0 is 60watts

Version 1.0
60/3.2=18.75amps
60/3.6=16.6667amps

Version 2.0 or 3.0 firmware
75/3.2=23.4375amps (Only a Sony VTC3 or VTC4, LG HD2, HB2, HB4, or HB6 can handle this safely)
75/3.6=20.8333amps

So two ways to play it safely with your HG2 batteries
1) Don't run full max wattage the mod can do all the time
2) Recharge the batteries when the gauge reads 50% or so

For the most part the TC is working to its specs from your description, 21amps is just 1 amp over the CDR of the HG2, and if the amp spike up toward 21amps is at 50% or less battery charge, change out and charge the battery, plus if the the pulse is in an assumed 500millisecond to 1 second pulse, not constant the regulation chip is doing its job maintaining temp as well as detecting battery output safely enough.
 

Ryedan

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Thank you very much. That was very informative. When using temp control i have never set my wattage past 50. On that particualar build i was talking about i had it set to 35 watts i beleive. Other than that i normally vape in regular wattage mode and my builds haven't gone below .3. Running 50 to 60 watts. I havent turned it up to 75 yet

You've already got good information from IMFire :). Just wanted to add a couple of thoughts.

First, it doesn't matter what resistance you're running, battery amp draw in VW or TC mode is almost totally dependent on the watts you set. That is not the case in VV mode (not too common these days) or with mechanical mods.

Second, at 35 watts you should not ever be drawing more than around 13A from the battery. OTOH the amps delivered to the atty could be higher than that and I suspect that is what the mod is showing you.

If you want to see what amp draw the battery is seeing, check out the Steam Engine battery drain calculator. Use 3 volts for 'Battery voltage' as that is where the amp draw is highest for a single battery mod, enter your 'Power (wattage) setting' of choice and compare the 'Atomizer - what hits your topper' data to the 'Battery drain - what taxes your battery' data.

There is a difference in the numbers because the voltage regulator changes the battery voltage (which is fixed at what it is at a given state of charge) to whatever voltage is required according to the resistance of the atty to make the watts you set. Change the resistance only and you'll see that battery amp draw doesn't change, but the output voltage and amps do change.
 
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Mikereezy

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Feb 20, 2016
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You've already got good information from IMFire :). Just wanted to add a couple of thoughts.

First, it doesn't matter what resistance you're running, battery amp draw in VW or TC mode is almost totally dependent on the watts you set. That is not the case in VV mode (not too common these days) or with mechanical mods.

Second, at 35 watts you should not ever be drawing more than around 13A from the battery. OTOH the amps delivered to the atty could be higher than that and I suspect that is what the mod is showing you.

If you want to see what amp draw the battery is seeing, check out the Steam Engine battery drain calculator. Use 3 volts for 'Battery voltage' as that is where the amp draw is highest for a single battery mod, enter your 'Power (wattage) setting' of choice and compare the 'Atomizer - what hits your topper' data to the 'Battery drain - what taxes your battery' data.

There is a difference in the numbers because the voltage regulator changes the battery voltage (which is fixed at what it is at a given state of charge) to whatever voltage is required according to the resistance of the atty to make the watts you set. Change the resistance only and you'll see that battery amp draw doesn't change, but the output voltage and amps do change.
Wow ok thank you very much that really helped. This gave me a greater understanding of whats going on. I just plugged in the numbers on steam engine. So the lower the battery voltage the higher the amp draw is on the battery right? So a fully charged battery would have 4.2 volts and a dead battery would be around 3 volts or 3.2?
 
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crxess

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Joyetech evic vtc mini software version 2.0 havent had a chance to update to 3.0

LOL - will have to check that out, I have 2 but haven't ventured into them. Set the wifes for TC with the included tank and Ti coil and just use mine for a .8ohm RTA at 22.5w

Thanks
 

Mikereezy

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Feb 20, 2016
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LOL - will have to check that out, I have 2 but haven't ventured into them. Set the wifes for TC with the included tank and TI and just use mine for a .8ohm RTA at 22.5w

Thanks
Haha no problem. If your still on firmware version 1.0, now it goes up to 75w and supports stainless steel wire and has tcr presets you can set
 

crxess

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Haha no problem. If your still on firmware version 1.0, now it goes up to 75w and supports stainless steel wire and has tcr presets you can set

Aware, but disability slowing me down these days. Have my SX Mini M Class upgraded and loving it. To many things needing attention and to little attention to give lately. :oops:
 

Ryedan

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Wow ok thank you very much that really helped. This gave me a greater understanding of whats going on. I just plugged in the numbers on steam engine. So the lower the battery voltage the higher the amp draw is on the battery right? So a fully charged battery would have 4.2 volts and a dead battery would be around 3 volts or 3.2?

You got it Mike :thumb:

There are a couple of other factors involved, but that's the jist of it and the major contributors to battery amp draw in a VW device.
 

greasegizzard

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LOL - will have to check that out, I have 2 but haven't ventured into them. Set the wifes for TC with the included tank and Ti coil and just use mine for a .8ohm RTA at 22.5w

Thanks
If I remember correctly from a review I watched, the bar that displays amps, right above the battery, can be changed to display a couple other things. Maybe yours is showing one of the other settings.
 

crxess

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Well im sure that sx mini is nice. All i have right now is an istick 50w and my evic vtc. The evic was my first temp control mode and my istick has done nothing but collect dust since i got the evic. looking to get a 200 watt device in the near future. Im stuck between the wismec rx200 and the sigelei fuchai

VTC-Mini is a great choice - very versatile and reliable. TC works fantastic, even before upgrading.
SX was a 3 year vaperversary present. Great Mod, but least used in rotation. Kind of worried about damaging it. :ohmy:

RX200 looks to be an excellent high power device and great for mid power usage. Long battery life.

I won an X Cube II. it does the higher end job for me. Never go above 80w and rarely above 30w
 

Mikereezy

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Feb 20, 2016
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VTC-Mini is a great choice - very versatile and reliable. TC works fantastic, even before upgrading.
SX was a 3 year vaperversary present. Great Mod, but least used in rotation. Kind of worried about damaging it. :ohmy:

RX200 looks to be an excellent high power device and great for mid power usage. Long battery life.

I won an X Cube II. it does the higher end job for me. Never go above 80w and rarely above 30w
Yeah the vtc works great for me. I love it. My only gripe i guess would be the battery life. Thats the main reason i would like to upgrade. Id like the high power output for my future builds, high wattage tanks etc. Earlier you said you use an rta, you wouldnt mess around with rdas by chance ? haha
 
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