Quick question about included clapton coil ?

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QcVaper

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So recently i got myself a serpent smm (for those who don't know)
I've been using one of the included coils (somekind of clapton but i'm unsure)
my problem is the fact i've been seing the resistance jump slowly up and up

For example it started at about .24 , but it's now at .28 and when i used it on my kaos spectrum mod it kept jumping up and down, which made the voltage jump higher aswell and almost burned my lips once lolz.

I know you expect the resistance to change a bit but it's been a week since i started using this coil,and i've already checked the posts and leads and everything is 100% secured

Any of that normal 0.0 i might change that coil tbh... Not really scared but it gets annoying to start a cool and enjoyable vape, but then BAM get hit with an almost burning sensation because the volts jumped higher than necessary.

And before someone asks yes the volts were jumping, when you adjust the wattage on the kaos you get a voltage reading too, no idea why but that's the only mod i've seen that does it, my aspire had no issue and my new gpriv 2 either 0.0 very weird .......

NB: i take cooler hits because i use 6mg atm and the liquid is pretty harsh at that mg but i wanted to finish that bottle for a while so yeah.....
 

stols001

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This isn't making much sense, really. No, you shouldn't see voltage drops and changes that frequently (IMO) but I'm not really clear on why it's happening unless your wire is SS, but that should cause voltage shifts DOWN when the coil heats up, and shouldn't be huge, either.

I'd try wrapping your own coil and see what happens. May be something to do with how the Clapton was built, honestly, I mean sometimes there are defects in coils that come prewrapped. IDK. But good luck with it and I really would try a different coil and see what results you get.... That would rule out the mod or tank being the issue, which would be the cheapest solution, so I'd maybe start with that?

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I has some experience with this matter.

Anna
 

QcVaper

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This isn't making much sense, really. No, you shouldn't see voltage drops and changes that frequently (IMO) but I'm not really clear on why it's happening unless your wire is SS, but that should cause voltage shifts DOWN when the coil heats up, and shouldn't be huge, either.

I'd try wrapping your own coil and see what happens. May be something to do with how the Clapton was built, honestly, I mean sometimes there are defects in coils that come prewrapped. IDK. But good luck with it and I really would try a different coil and see what results you get.... That would rule out the mod or tank being the issue, which would be the cheapest solution, so I'd maybe start with that?

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I has some experience with this matter.

Anna
Im somewhat sure it's the mod tbh i've used that same thing with my gpriv 2 without any noticeable changes except for the resistance of that coil (from. 27 to. 28 this morning) might indeed switch out the coil anyway since it's very odd. I would make one but i haven't bought any wire rolls yet xD kinda stuck with it but might try a better smaller one i have (it's a 2mm normal clapton one which might be too small but I'll see). Besides that weirdness i've vaped the smm on my aspire nx75 mod without anything odd that i could notice at least.
 
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Coastal Cowboy

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The thin outer wire on the Clapton is going south on you. It gets worse over time, especially if you're pushing a lot of power through it. More dead spots show up and they get bigger. It's also why single wire coils of say, 26awg or thicker last longer and are better able to handle many more dry burn and re-wick jobs.

Claptons are very good at what they are intended to do--put more metal mass and surface area in contact with the juice in order to produce more vapor. But they do it at a price of more power and shorter life.
 

QcVaper

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The thin outer wire on the Clapton is going south on you. It gets worse over time, especially if you're pushing a lot of power through it. More dead spots show up and they get bigger. It's also why single wire coils of say, 26awg or thicker last longer and are better able to handle many more dry burn and re-wick jobs.

Claptons are very good at what they are intended to do--put more metal mass and surface area in contact with the juice in order to produce more vapor. But they do it at a price of more power and shorter life.

I've been running the same claptons for about a month now cleaned about 2-3 times and they run like new. Then again i only do about 65=70 watts,but my wire is fine. His issue might be more due to the stainless, cause mine are nickel. Anyway this is not part of my original thread and truugy has his own in the beginner forum.
 
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I just started using ss316l fused Clapton coils , and my kaos keeps telling me to recheck resistance because it keeps changing as it fires. Is there anything I can do to solve the problem
SS316L will change in resistance as the wire heats up while firing. If it's an exotic coil and one of the wires starts to develop problems, cold resistance will change. As a build heats and cools, the connections to the terminals can change which also affects the build's total resistance.

I don't know how long a Clapton should last. All I can say is that it won't last as long as a single wire build. :)

I've been running the same claptons for about a month now cleaned about 2-3 times and they run like new. Then again i only do about 65=70 watts,but my wire is fine. His issue might be more due to the stainless, cause mine are nickel. Anyway this is not part of my original thread and truugy has his own in the beginner forum.

"Only" 65-70 Watts? Nickel is more fragile than Stainless. What temperature are you running that build?
 

papergoblin

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Resistance change is more than likely crud and metal fatigue, basically a normal thing. It could also be the mod itself or the batteries used in the mod. For some reason the SMOK steam (mini) I have will change resistance it reads when I change batteries. One would think it would read after the battery but obviously not or something in it is wrong.

I wouldn't worry about coils jumping up or down by .02, could be the meter/mod rounding up or down (can't make up it's mind). That's one good reason why so many of us preach safety on mechs, just cause a coil or battery starts in one place, doesn't mean it will end there.

A side note, your experience is why I don't use premade coils that come with any atty, you just never know what they are.
 

Coastal Cowboy

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I don't do temp control and they're KA1 + NI80 been using those forever never had any issues and they taste awesome.
Ok. I'd be careful. Remember that electricity always takes the path of least resistance when you mash the fire button. If the core is Nickel and the Clapton wrap is Kanthal, the core is heated. If the reverse is true, then the wrap will heat.

At very high temperatures, Nickel behaves very badly.
 
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AzPlumber

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Ok. I'd be careful. Remember that electricity always takes the path of least resistance when you mash the fire button. If the core is Nickel and the Clapton wrap is Kanthal, the core is heated. If the reverse is true, then the wrap will heat.

At very high temperatures, Nickel behaves very badly.

N80 is NiChrome and commonly used in VV or VW. Pure nickle (Ni200) used for TC would create issues at high temps
 
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