Okay so I am running .3Ω dual coil on the Mutation X v2, with the Ragnarok mech mod. Now the button isn't hot by any means, but the rda gets really hot if I chain vape, and the mod heats up as well (more heat the closer I tocuh toward the rda). What, if anything can I do? Oh and I'm running this build with the 30amp 18650 purple Efest
Quite bad heat problems with a mech mod
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Two things:
Realized this is in the wrong forum section, sorry.
And I don't seem to have any heat problem with the Stingray X mod with the self adjusting connector (not the hybrid connector). Both mods are stainless steel
Realized this is in the wrong forum section, sorry.
And I don't seem to have any heat problem with the Stingray X mod with the self adjusting connector (not the hybrid connector). Both mods are stainless steel
i`m no expert at sub ohming but maybe chainvaping that low ohms in that rda is too low and generating too much heat?
I was thinking that as well until I switched back to my Stingray X mod, with no heat or firing problems. And the battery stays cool.
that`s odd. if you post this question to the sub ohm forum you should get some help there.
And this is weird because I don't get any problem whatsoever with my Stingray X, stainless steel, with the hybrid connector. I just got the Ragnarok by VLS today, and it's like I just bought a paperweight. I put I freshly charged Purple Efest 18650 30amp flat top battery into the Ragnarok and not only do I seem to have to wait a long time for firing, but as soon as the RDA fires the button gets almost too hot to touch. Now I put another fresh battery into my Stingray X, same .28Ω dual coil on the Mutation X v2, same type of 18650, and I have no heat problems unless I chain vape like crazy and then it's just the RDA heating up. And even then the button stays cool to touch.
This is causing a lot of stress as I feel like I just wasted money...there is a no return policy for the store either. Any help will be appreciated
This is causing a lot of stress as I feel like I just wasted money...there is a no return policy for the store either. Any help will be appreciated
I haven't had any problems with my Ragnarok. I've got a Marquis with a dual coil running .35 ohms and that sucker gets hot hot hot.
Being a pure copper mod, and copper being an awesome conductor, some of the heat convects from the atty down to the mod. It's nothing to worry about if you don't let it get out of control. Once mine gets too hot to put my lips on, I let it cool down for a couple of minutes.
I love my ragnarok. I've used it so much in the past day alone that I have a blister on my thumb.
Being a pure copper mod, and copper being an awesome conductor, some of the heat convects from the atty down to the mod. It's nothing to worry about if you don't let it get out of control. Once mine gets too hot to put my lips on, I let it cool down for a couple of minutes.
I love my ragnarok. I've used it so much in the past day alone that I have a blister on my thumb.
if you have dirty threads on the mod and if you have dirty(carbon) on the battery terminals or the contacts that touch the battery this will all produce voltdrop and heat which will snowball the arcing
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yeah Hi, i put all my parts apart from magnets and delicate's in the ultrasonic cleaner and batteries i will use something like 1200grit sandpaper or wire mesh on aswell as the mods +/- terminals and then you could wipe any dust away and wipe with rubbing alchohol but...
if you havent got the UC then a toothbrush or a small fine wire brush and some soap liquid with hot water on the threads, chances are you have paint or stubborn oil in the threads, and the ends of your tubes where ever they .... against each other.
if i was at a push and didnt have a fine wire brush i would use a soft metal dish scrubber or pad and go with the threads.
I can go a good couple or 3 months without cleaning the mods or batteries and i dont put any noalox or any other substance on anything
but thats just me and i find they hit hard for longer IMO
But dont sand or rub back any plated contacts eg silver plated copper
if you havent got the UC then a toothbrush or a small fine wire brush and some soap liquid with hot water on the threads, chances are you have paint or stubborn oil in the threads, and the ends of your tubes where ever they .... against each other.
if i was at a push and didnt have a fine wire brush i would use a soft metal dish scrubber or pad and go with the threads.
I can go a good couple or 3 months without cleaning the mods or batteries and i dont put any noalox or any other substance on anything
but thats just me and i find they hit hard for longer IMO But dont sand or rub back any plated contacts eg silver plated copper
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*peeking in* Just checking that you're getting help.. I see that you are in fine hands
Carry on....
Carry on....
The thing is I never had to clean my Stingray X when I first got it, and it still works like the day I got it. I just got the Ragnarok yesterday, would just cleaning it like stated above really work and fix my problem?
Sorry just seems weird that such an easy fix could fix what seems like a huge problem
Oh yes its very likely that one mod will come needing no cleaning and another needing it, and yes a case of a good scrub will make a huge difference, not sure what mod you have but you could have Lacquer, oil, paint or bur's.
You say that you cant return it... lets fix it
is it like this1?>> http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10011172/1959100-ragnarok-style-mechanical-mod
it has alot of threaded parts, you can get some mods that have just one tube.
the screw parts inside the 510 and the +positive connections that sit above the battery, take em all apart and scrub with washing liquid and hot water, dont lose the small parts down the sink
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I use a small towel in the sink so I don't lose anything. Copper needs cleaning more so than brass or stainless steel. I clean the threads and contacts in my Emma every couple of days.
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