Sorry to hear this...I bought my 50W a couple weeks after they came out, and I'm still using it daily with pretty much no issues. I do get the occasional misfire when I trigger the button but not often enough to be a problem for me.
*RANT* Eleaf Istick.
- Thread starter jpabs720
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I know this wasn't the original posters problem, but when an eleaf istick "bricks" or doesn't take/hold a charge anymore, It's typically a user charging error.
Everyone that walks through my door hears about using the devices intended charger at least 3 times before they walk out, and even still, when one comes back with a manufacturer defect claim, after asking a series of questions it's usually determined that they charged it with an IPhone charger.
I can also tell you that Eleaf isticks don't like certain types of tanks, namely v3 style tanks and sometimes evod style tanks.
They are best paired with a spring pin style atty.
I've had and used my 50w regularly for the last 9 months, but only with an atlantis and occasionally a Mutation X v2
Everyone that walks through my door hears about using the devices intended charger at least 3 times before they walk out, and even still, when one comes back with a manufacturer defect claim, after asking a series of questions it's usually determined that they charged it with an IPhone charger.
I can also tell you that Eleaf isticks don't like certain types of tanks, namely v3 style tanks and sometimes evod style tanks.
They are best paired with a spring pin style atty.
I've had and used my 50w regularly for the last 9 months, but only with an atlantis and occasionally a Mutation X v2
I know this wasn't the original posters problem, but when an eleaf istick "bricks" or doesn't take/hold a charge anymore, It's typically a user charging error.
Everyone that walks through my door hears about using the devices intended charger at least 3 times before they walk out, and even still, when one comes back with a manufacturer defect claim, after asking a series of questions it's usually determined that they charged it with an IPhone charger.
I can also tell you that Eleaf isticks don't like certain types of tanks, namely v3 style tanks and sometimes evod style tanks.
They are best paired with a spring pin style atty.
I've had and used my 50w regularly for the last 9 months, but only with an atlantis and occasionally a Mutation X v2
Can you explain the steps one would have to go through to charge a mod, of any kind, with an iPhone charger??
I'll wait.............................
Sure, plug your micro usb into your eleaf istick and then plug the standard usb end into any iphone/ipad/ipod wall jack.
wait for eleaf to brick.
questions?
wait for eleaf to brick.
questions?
No offense, but it *really* shouldn't take you 6 products from a specific company to realize you don't like that company. I didn't even bother reading the entire post you made after the first few sentences.
There are literally HUNDREDS of AMAZING mods out there, but DOZENS of awesome companies. If you'd rather spend your time ordering products from the same company you despise, and then getting mad at them and posting on here, go for it. However, it makes FAR more sense to simply buy a product that fits YOU, by another company.
And what's the problem there?
Are you saying the istick will get damaged by a standard usb supply or are you saying that an "iphone/ipad/ipod wall jack" does not have a standard usb output ???
iPhones use cables that only fit Apple products.
Wall wart is a wall wart. Charger is in the phone.
Apple cable will fit no mod I have ever seen.
Or are we talking about the AC adapter? I know the stock AC adapter for my Samsung S5 outputs 5v 2A. Most others put out 5v 1A.
So it's possible the newer iPhone uses the higher power input.
I which I could agree with even one thing you mentioned...I know this wasn't the original posters problem, but when an eleaf istick "bricks" or doesn't take/hold a charge anymore, It's typically a user charging error.
Everyone that walks through my door hears about using the devices intended charger at least 3 times before they walk out, and even still, when one comes back with a manufacturer defect claim, after asking a series of questions it's usually determined that they charged it with an IPhone charger.
I can also tell you that Eleaf isticks don't like certain types of tanks, namely v3 style tanks and sometimes evod style tanks.
They are best paired with a spring pin style atty.
I've had and used my 50w regularly for the last 9 months, but only with an atlantis and occasionally a Mutation X v2
I usually charge my iStick with Kindle charger. Why should I have different USB chargers plugged in?
I have a 30 and a 40. The 30 has gone 6 months with no issues. The 40 the temp control sucks but power mode seems solid so far. I see a lot of people have various problems on the forum but mine have been great.
I have two IStick 30's and I love them. They get used hard and they have been troopers for seven months now. Just lately I'm noticing they aren't lasting quite as long between charges but hey, they cost $6 more than a good quality ego twist 1000mah and I never got seven months out of one of those.. My threads are worn and loose but still holding. Good performance for the money if you ask me. As for the charging cable issue.. I I have a couple AC wall adapters (iPad and something else) that are 10 watts. I used one once on my IStick and noticed it heated the battery up immediately so I unplugged it. Best to stick with a 5 watt or lower charger.
All 3 of my 50W are first release. And I ran one over with a tractor. Cleaned the mud off, and its fine.
By the way, the button issue is fixable. Use a T6 torx bit and unscrew the top bolts. There is a thin silicone gasket around the fire button. It has shifted if your button is hard to push. Put it back. Screw mod back together. Good to go
By the way, the button issue is fixable. Use a T6 torx bit and unscrew the top bolts. There is a thin silicone gasket around the fire button. It has shifted if your button is hard to push. Put it back. Screw mod back together. Good to go
Your bad string of luck with ISticks makes me think you may have been sold clones. The clones are garbage. A sure fire way to tell if it's a clone is to look at the screws in the top and bottom. If they're Phillips head, they're clones.
Only trouble I've had with any iSticks was with the 20 Watts, and the problem has been either stripped threads, or a shorted center contact.
We have three 50 Watt ISticks. I have one and my wife uses two of them. I've used mine daily since last February, and my wife has had hers a bit longer.
My Istick TC40 is an awesome little mod. Wouldn't hesitate to buy another.
Only trouble I've had with any iSticks was with the 20 Watts, and the problem has been either stripped threads, or a shorted center contact.
We have three 50 Watt ISticks. I have one and my wife uses two of them. I've used mine daily since last February, and my wife has had hers a bit longer.
My Istick TC40 is an awesome little mod. Wouldn't hesitate to buy another.
Blame the shop for authentic product failures?
Only if the boxes were opened or they refused to return recalled units and sold them instead.
Otherwise there's no control at the shop as to what's inside the box and it's reliability.
Tapatyped
I've had the iStick 50 for 5 months - no problems at all. The iStick 20, which I bought for my son but which was returned to me, I have been using for 3 months. It is giving me a bit of a hassle with not reading the atty or saying it has a short and I have to fiddle with it to find the right contact. But there is a reason for that. I dropped it when it had a Lemo II on it. The glass tank was smashed and I'm sure the 510 or at least the threading was damaged. So absolutely not the fault of the iStick. I now also have a TC 40w which I also love though I wish it had longer battery life.
I've got a friend with a Kia, 290,000 miles and all its ever had done to it is oil, filters and the occasional timing belt and brakes. My Audi on the other hand... It's under 90k and has cost me an easy 10 times as much in maintenance costs.
As far as the iSticks go, I've had a 30 and a 50, both were given away when I upgraded and are still working great. A friend has a 20, 30 and a 40tc with zero issues. Aside from the TC being a joke. He is an oilfield worker and his have been dropped from 40+ feet in the air, dropped in water, and generally abused. The 20 went through the belt/pulley on an air compressor and still works great. They look like crap, but they still work. Tough little buggers from what I've seen.
Im talking about the "wall block" not the cable. When you read the output section on the block, it should be 5volts at 1amp (1000 milliamps). If its 6, 9 or 12 volts, You're gonna have a bad time..
- Status
Similar threads
