Happy thankssvaperday weekend comrades which I just calculated today to be day 300 smoke free after 36 years, ya hoo!
Love my ravage 230 and found I loved it even more with the red panda software update. I saw lots of folks with the no atomizer message for this mod and I myself took mine apart a dozen or more times and increased spring tension and it would work fine for several weeks. Yesterday this did not work and I found there was broken solder joint on the board coming from the atomizer, fixed in seconds with an iron.
I go through the occ coils about every 3 days or so but some last longer and I end up replacing them not because of loss of taste but because the juice gets dark and grosses me out. I generally get over 1200 puffs and an hour and a half of fire time at 34 watts- .47 ohms. Every 3 days at 300 days would mean around 100 coils in that time span were I not rebuilding them. As it stands, I rotate through the same 12 coils I opened before I got the hang of rebuilding. I use a total of 7 wraps of 24 gauge SS at 3.5 mm. Lots of well intentioned videos out on rebuilding them but I haven't seen anyone do what I do and I havent made a leaky or shorted coil in months. I separate the inner and outer shells and use 2 strips of Japanese cotton cut to 7.2 mm soaked with water. 1st strip goes under the negative dog leg at the top and the near equal lengths of extra overlap on the opposite side. Second strip is folded in half and wrapped around the outside of the coil and the overlap goes to the same spot, opposite the negative lead. I have flat pliers that i use to squeeze the loose ends as i slide it down one of the slots on the inner shell. I use an exacto knife to push a little bit more cotton on each side after it is seated and I make the connections. Finally, I cut off the extra with my wire cutters and leave it to dry. The outer shell is only pushed in place right before I use it as it makes it so much easier to saturate the coil with juice and have it ready for immediate vaping. I'm also able to remove the coil intact after popping the top on one that needs cleaned and re-wicked. A jewelers magnifying headset is needed to see where the leads are as they tend to catch on the way out but it's worth it for me as 24 SS is not easy to work with to make the dogleg at the top and pigrail at the bottom. The Chinese clones interestingly enough, don't have a pigtail at all and they wire them backwards.
I get this approach isn't for everyone but I figured I spent enough money on smokes all those years so hopefully someone somewhere finds this info somewhat useful. Thanks for reading this novel and keep on vaping!
Love my ravage 230 and found I loved it even more with the red panda software update. I saw lots of folks with the no atomizer message for this mod and I myself took mine apart a dozen or more times and increased spring tension and it would work fine for several weeks. Yesterday this did not work and I found there was broken solder joint on the board coming from the atomizer, fixed in seconds with an iron.
I go through the occ coils about every 3 days or so but some last longer and I end up replacing them not because of loss of taste but because the juice gets dark and grosses me out. I generally get over 1200 puffs and an hour and a half of fire time at 34 watts- .47 ohms. Every 3 days at 300 days would mean around 100 coils in that time span were I not rebuilding them. As it stands, I rotate through the same 12 coils I opened before I got the hang of rebuilding. I use a total of 7 wraps of 24 gauge SS at 3.5 mm. Lots of well intentioned videos out on rebuilding them but I haven't seen anyone do what I do and I havent made a leaky or shorted coil in months. I separate the inner and outer shells and use 2 strips of Japanese cotton cut to 7.2 mm soaked with water. 1st strip goes under the negative dog leg at the top and the near equal lengths of extra overlap on the opposite side. Second strip is folded in half and wrapped around the outside of the coil and the overlap goes to the same spot, opposite the negative lead. I have flat pliers that i use to squeeze the loose ends as i slide it down one of the slots on the inner shell. I use an exacto knife to push a little bit more cotton on each side after it is seated and I make the connections. Finally, I cut off the extra with my wire cutters and leave it to dry. The outer shell is only pushed in place right before I use it as it makes it so much easier to saturate the coil with juice and have it ready for immediate vaping. I'm also able to remove the coil intact after popping the top on one that needs cleaned and re-wicked. A jewelers magnifying headset is needed to see where the leads are as they tend to catch on the way out but it's worth it for me as 24 SS is not easy to work with to make the dogleg at the top and pigrail at the bottom. The Chinese clones interestingly enough, don't have a pigtail at all and they wire them backwards.
I get this approach isn't for everyone but I figured I spent enough money on smokes all those years so hopefully someone somewhere finds this info somewhat useful. Thanks for reading this novel and keep on vaping!
