rDNA 40 problem, please help T_T

[piggypinggy]

Hi guys, I got my rDNA 40 on Jan, and this problem has been bothering me, is there anyway to fix it?
Everytime I vape for 1 or 2 hours, and then I put it down for like 15 minutes, my rda wouldn't work (very little vapor production), then I had to unscrew the atty and then put it up again like a new build to make it work again.
My rDNA40 doesn't have any other screen problem, how to fix it?? Please help! thanks!

 

[tc1]

As stated in the other thread, contact Vapor Shark.

What you are experiencing sounds like the refinement issues some people claim to encounter. If Vapor Shark deems this the case, they will most likely replace it with the latest firmware chip which has the lock function to counteract this issue.

 

[Technonut]

Moved from Variable Voltage APV Discussion to Temperature Control forum..

 

[retird]

May help....

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...60120-kanger-subtank-tscs-7.html#post15483893

 

[dr g]

Hi guys, I got my rDNA 40 on Jan, and this problem has been bothering me, is there anyway to fix it?
Everytime I vape for 1 or 2 hours, and then I put it down for like 15 minutes, my RDA wouldn't work (very little vapor production), then I had to unscrew the atty and then put it up again like a new build to make it work again.
My rDNA40 doesn't have any other screen problem, how to fix it?? Please help! thanks!

You should never unscrew and rescrew the atty to try to change the performance.

What you are seeing is the proper functioning of the automatic temperature calibration built into the device. It syncs up the temperature of the coil and the mod by monitoring the coil when the setup sits and cools to ambient temperature. It then adjusts itself to improve accuracy.

When it does this, you need to re-adjust temperature from the previous setting, because that setting is no longer accurate.

So in short, raise your temperature setting.

 

[tc1]

I don't have this issue honestly.

If I have my device set at 420 @ 25 watts and vape on it ... sit it down for a hour or whatever and grab it again. I still get 25watts @ 420. (same vapor, warmth, etc) Rinse and repeat.

 

[IanDVaypes]

You should never unscrew and rescrew the atty to try to change the performance.

What you are seeing is the proper functioning of the automatic temperature calibration built into the device. It syncs up the temperature of the coil and the mod by monitoring the coil when the setup sits and cools to ambient temperature. It then adjusts itself to improve accuracy.

When it does this, you need to re-adjust temperature from the previous setting, because that setting is no longer accurate.

So in short, raise your temperature setting.

Not true in certain situations. The connectivity through all electronics needs to be solid. Usually through the 510 or coil screws. In some cases it'll be the tsc occ coils. Attomizers with an adjustible 510 pin needs to be modified because juice will eventually enter the threads and interrupt the connection and vape quality. I fix this by adding a few strands of wire between the threads. Once you have resistance and connectivity issues figured out next is wicking. You must be wicking perfectly in order to continue the great performance. TP will kick in and limit the vape quality and protect you from the burning dry hit if you don't have it wicking properly. Once I got those things down, I never ever ever have refinement or tp issues. My temp setting stays at 420F. It takes a while to adapt to the dna 40 and get it right, but once you do, it's an amazing experience. These prebuilt ni200 coils need a redesign and won't function properly with the dna 40.

 

[dr g]

These prebuilt ni200 coils need a redesign and won't function properly with the dna 40.

absolutely false. there are many people using stock OCC coils to great success, myself included. what you have done is largely reengineered them, which defeats the purpose. issues that exist are largely between the mod and the tank. OCC coils run at higher temperatures because of the long legs.