Rebuilding aerotank to a single coil??

[SacredNut]

Stock aerotank coils are dual. Can I rebuild and just make a single coil inside? I only have practice rebuilding kanger mini protank 2 coils, single coils. Can I do the same as I would in the mini protank 2 inside the aerotank atomizer?

 

[Labubs]

Yes, though the chimney and metal sleeve can be a pain to get off. Once the sleeve is off, the housing is the same as the old dual coils and just a taller version of the single coil housing. Use 30 gauge or smaller wire, 28 being the absolute biggest gauge to use in there, I would usually go with a 2, 2.4, or 3 mm diameter coil, a fatter flavor wick, and instead of working the metal sleeve back on I would pop just the chimney on and slide the fatter rubber top piece that goes over the chimney from an old kanger single coil on there.

 

[SacredNut]

Sweet. Thanks for the info! I only have 32 gauge wire so looks like I'm golden! I saw a video of a guy wrapping the wire around a zip tie. Is this similar to what you're referring to in regards to a "fatter flavor wick"? With protank 2 coils, I would wrap around an eyeglass screwdriver and always have difficulty getting the cotton to fit through the coil without yanking and snagging on the coil which would change its "perfect" spiral to a more obtuse oblong shape. I'm thinking wrapping around the zip tie will allow for easier wicking.

 

[Labubs]

Wrapping around a zip tie huh? Thats new to me, I usually use screwdrivers or drill bits...something completely round. The flavor wick in Kanger coils is the extra wick on top of, not through the coil itself. When you take apart the dual coil you'll see there's 2 wicked coils with a loose wick between them. Single Kangers have a wicked coil and a loose wick on top of that. Since there's more vertical room in the dual coil housing, what I meant by fatter flavor wick is using a thicker piece of cotton on top of the rebuilt coil, to prevent flooding, gurgling or spitting...if you've only ever seen the new enclosed style coils it may be harder to picture what I mean than if you have seen the older style exposed wick coils. Do some searching around, there's many many videos and guides to rebuilding Kanger coils that include pictures, a whole bunch on this site alone, that will make things much easier and is how I learned to do it myself last year.

Also, it sounds like you're using a bit too much cotton for the wick through the coil itself. You want some resistance when threading it through, but not so much that it deforms the shape of the coil. Less is more through the coil when it comes to cotton, practice makes perfect and you'll eventually get a feel and an eye for it. Do some research and try to emulate some of the guides out there, rebuilding the Kangers is great great value and getting the technique down on the small heads will give you a running head start should you ever get into RDAs!

 

[Rhymesayers]

I currently rebuild them with 28g kanthal and a 2.5 mm screwdriver.(8/7 wraps) comes out about 1.2ohms What others have said is right. Don't use too much cotton through the coil. What I do is leave the sleeve off (looks like old coil now) and I tuck the extra wick into the base of my aerotank. I leave enough extra wick on each side of coil so that when I tuck it in the base, It goes all the way around the base. When this swells up you will have great flavor. I usually tape this setup anywhere from 10-12 watts on an stick 50w. Hope this helps.

 

[93gc40]

I do my Kanger single and dual coils as Single vertical coils with 29g and 30g, at 1.8-2ohms, stuff-wrapped with cotton. I also leave the outer sleeve off the dual coils when I rebuild em. Bought a bunch of extra chimneys and insulators, Lightning vapes, to replace the ones that break, taking the factory coils apart the first time.