Rebuilding For Beginners

[DoogieTony]

I will be using the rebuilds on a variety of things. MVP, Provari and also have some regular 650 evod batteries. I tend to have lots of things going at any given time.

Ok, I learned to rebuild on a Provari. They are loaded with redundant safety measures so if you do mess up a build it'll throw an error before anything bad can happen.
I felt quite safe rebuilding vivi nova heads and drippers on the vari. Just keep your resistance at or above ~1.7 ohm so it will fire.
I'd recommend building/ testing on the Provari before using anything on the egos.
Check out some YouTube vids from respected vapers like pbusardo, super x drifter, riptripper, etc. You'll get the hang of it pretty quickly.

 

[Rickajho]

If you're a no-nonsense "how to" person here's a post that covers the entire process from beginning to end: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/396220-kanger-protank-rebuild-33.html#post9844874

 

[MrSelf Destruct]

I just like seeing Rip Trippers beard progression

 

[Dconnor]

chill. actually it was helpful but you missed his point.

you want to build coils for Protanks? fine. but learning how to build on a cheap dripper will be easier, faster, much less expensive and far less frustrating.

think about it. you mess up your first builds on a dripper and you're out a minute or two, and 4 drops of juice. mess up on a protank and you may be banging your head against a wall.

i have old man eyes and for all intents and purposes one hand. i can make micro coils on a dripper all day long. i haven't used Protanks in a long while but they seemed much more hassle to get right. and micro coils are actually the easiest type of coil to get consistent results on, imho, even tho i sometimes build standard coils.

^^ Was my intention. Your MVP has safety features to prevent overtaxing it. I am not suggesting you sub-ohm (below 1 ohm) build. If you have rewicked a Kanger coil, you know it is tight in there, and it is easy to touch the side. Microcoils are smaller sized, and I have found easier to build. The Igo is a $15 platform to practice on. The principles of "how to build the coil" remain the same. If I had tried to put the first coils I ever built into a PT head, I probably would have given it up right there. It is easy to do, but can be frustrating initially.

 

[Tepid]

For the record, I learned how to build coils on Vivi Nova's first, then on a Phoenix A7 Clone.

Building a coil for the Protanks, EVOD's, Kanger T3's, Vivi Nova's, etc. is actually very easy.

I used this video....

Machine screw coil wrap for Vivi Nova / Kanger T3 - YouTube

But you can also check out this one....

LET'S REBUILD A KANGER PROTANK 2013 - YouTube

So, the only thing you really need to know is, what Resistance (OHM) you are wanting.
this will determine what kind of vape you get.

Using the first video with a 4/40 screw I aim for 2.5Ohm using 32ga Kanthal with a 6/5 or 7/6 wrap
That is 6 lines on top, 5 on the bottom of wrapping
I generally vape at 3.7v on my Provari.

You will have to experiment to find what you like.

The cheapest place for Kanthal is TemCO
Kanthal Wire 32 Gauge RW0097 - 100 FT 0.25oz Series A-1 Resistance AWG

You will need to search around for good Silica, not all places sell good Silica.
as in, it might be frayed, or just trash with some salvageable.
Same with Kanthal, which is why I only buy from TemCo anymore.
Too many vendors wrap wire around cards, or cardboard, and it sucks.
You want spooled wire only.

You can generally use 30ga or 32ga some use as low as 28ga (i don't recommend that), I generally stick with 32ga

You will need to get an ohm meter,,,
Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter - Meters - Accessories
or
Rechargeable OHM Meter

I have the first one.
You may need to get an adapter for the Kanger to 510 connection.
510 to eGo Adapter - Adapters - Accessories

Hope this helps a bit more.

PS. The first video he uses a Beading threader, I made one out of a long piece of Kanthal doubled over, with a loop at one end, and twisted together, doesn't take long to build, and if you lose it, no big deal, make another.

 

[Don Robertson]

AND had I opened both eyes you already have the video I posted and then saw was a dupe of the one up above. Sorry.

4-40 Machine Screw was my first 'guide'. It's a good one and you can progress from it.

I just had to be careful to 'follow' the screw threads and not jump over one. GOOD LIGHTING helped a lot.

Good luck.

Senile Old Man Don ................. (NOT an 'expert' on coils)

 

[Ld3441]

As with anything else, I have a lot to learn.

It just seemed to me everyones first response is to micro coil and sub ohms. I want to learn the basics first and I have watched a few videos but wanted some experienced people here to tell me the best route to take before I get started. Yes, micro coils/sub ohms kind of scares me and I don't want to jump into something over my head. I do however see what you are saying now.

I still think I want to start with a PT head and I do know it is small but I feel if I can master that then the rest should be easier... maybe? I have LOTS of heads and as I mentioned before I have rewicked them. I have not had any problems with any of them but I want to learn how to recoil when the time comes that is needed. I think using PT heads to start will be less dangerous. Again I could be wrong.

 

[generic mutant]

+1 for microcoils

On the plus side:

1) They seem to produce more vapour at any given resistance, which means you can shoot for higher resistance.
2) They almost never produce hot legs.
3) They're more physically robust, so less easy to dislodge, and easier to work out hot spots.

On the minus:

1) You need a chef's torch, a lighter or a stove to compress them into shape. You don't need this step for a 'macrocoil'.
2) You can't wind them on the wick. Doesn't necessarily matter, but it limits your options.

Overall, microcoils are a win in most builds for me. Wish I'd started with them sooner.

 

[generic mutant]

...
I still think I want to start with a PT head and I do know it is small but I feel if I can master that then the rest should be easier... maybe? I have LOTS of heads and as I mentioned before I have rewicked them. I have not had any problems with any of them but I want to learn how to recoil when the time comes that is needed. I think using PT heads to start will be less dangerous. Again I could be wrong.

Protanks are fiddly as heck. Not impossible for a beginner, by any stretch, but much harder than a dripper.

A dripper (such as the Igo-L) is as simple as it can be, without having to faff around with confined spaces or getting the PT gasket back in place without shorting. Optimising the wicking is more complicated in a PT too.

Metal platform, with a positive and negative terminal sticking out. Put the coil between the screws, measure the resistance, wick and go. That's all there is to it, you'll surprise yourself...

 

[Ld3441]

Thanks for all the links, that does help a lot!

What is the difference in using 32 guage kanthal as compared to 30 guage? Most say 32 guage but others say 30 or 28 guage. How does this affect the coil build?

 

[Tepid]

From my understanding,,, Sub-Ohm's are not all they are cracked up to be. And mainly only work on Mechanical Mods

Micro Coils might be, but that depends on the device. I would not do Micro Coils in anything other than an RBA like an Igo.
I would not attempt a Micro on any Clearo's.

I don't know, maybe I could try it some time and see. Maybe I will change my mind, but, for now, I would not do it on a Clearo.

 

[Ld3441]

Protanks are fiddly as heck. Not impossible for a beginner, by any stretch, but much harder than a dripper.

A dripper (such as the Igo-L) is as simple as it can be, without having to faff around with confined spaces or getting the PT gasket back in place without shorting. Optimising the wicking is more complicated in a PT too.

Metal platform, with a positive and negative terminal sticking out. Put the coil between the screws, measure the resistance, wick and go. That's all there is to it, you'll surprise yourself...

I don't mind fiddly and I like to figure things out. Granted, I am probably going about it the hard way but I usually do. This is what I have and what I'd like to learn to rebuild. Once I have this mastered I am likely to go to something easier and may never use these again but we shall see.

 

[Tepid]

Thanks for all the links, that does help a lot!

What is the difference in using 32 guage kanthal as compared to 30 guage? Most say 32 guage but others say 30 or 28 guage. How does this affect the coil build?

it is the level of resistance (OHM's)
Lower Gauge Wire equals less resistance, more coils to get to a higher resistance.

28ga might be 12/11 wraps to get 2.5 ohm , this will make a longer coil that will take up more room
It is mainly used for low ohm/sub-ohm coils.
32ga will only need about 6/5 wrap

BTW, I still use Original Vision Vivi Nova Mini Tanks. Love them, best for me.

Sorry for the re-edits

 

[Iffy]

I tend to have lots of things going at any given time.

If "lots of things" are vaping related, back off and take on one 'challenge' at a time. Pick one topper and work with it until ya master it or if ya get frustrated, THEN move on to another device.

Ya got some great input here, relax and take your time!

 

[Ld3441]

If "lots of things" are vaping related, back off and take on one 'challenge' at a time. Pick one topper and work with it until ya master it or if ya get frustrated, THEN move on to another device.

Ya got some great input here, relax and take your time!

I can't help but laugh! Yes, lots of things vape related but I meant several options sitting in front of me to vape. At this moment I have my provari with a cartotank which won't need rebuilding. I also have my MVP2 with 3 protanks filled with various juices to swap out as desired. So really the only thing to master is rebuilding the protanks. You are right, I will master this first before I move on to another device although I am always thinking about what I want next.....

Great answers here and I do appreciate all the input from each of you. I am going to order some supplies and get it done! Thanks everyone!

 

[Myrany]

From my understanding,,, Sub-Ohm's are not all they are cracked up to be. And mainly only work on Mechanical Mods

Micro Coils might be, but that depends on the device. I would not do Micro Coils in anything other than an RBA like an Igo.
I would not attempt a Micro on any Clearo's.

I don't know, maybe I could try it some time and see. Maybe I will change my mind, but, for now, I would not do it on a Clearo.

I actually micro coil EVOD heads these days at 1.3 ohms. With cotton wicking it is a lovely vape.

 

[MamaTried]

As with anything else, I have a lot to learn.

It just seemed to me everyones first response is to micro coil and sub ohms. I want to learn the basics first and I have watched a few videos but wanted some experienced people here to tell me the best route to take before I get started. Yes, micro coils/sub ohms kind of scares me and I don't want to jump into something over my head. I do however see what you are saying now.

I still think I want to start with a PT head and I do know it is small but I feel if I can master that then the rest should be easier... maybe? I have LOTS of heads and as I mentioned before I have rewicked them. I have not had any problems with any of them but I want to learn how to recoil when the time comes that is needed. I think using PT heads to start will be less dangerous. Again I could be wrong.

i hope you are not confusing micro coils with sub-ohms. not one single person in the thread suggested sub-ohms, and i bet all of them would agree that suggesting sub-ohms to someone just starting is irresponsible.

i've built a ton of micro coils but not one sub-ohm. prolly never will build a sub-ohm. micros are just a style that many find produce better flavor, etc. that's all.

good luck with the PT heads. more power to ya if it works out.

 

[Rickb119]

5 wraps of 32g wrapped around a 2mm (5/64 bit?) will give you around 1.8-2.0 ohms. 9 wraps of 30g around a 1/16 bit (micro coil) will give you around 1.7-1.9 ohms. Less wraps=lower ohms. More wraps=higher ohms. Also, larger internal diameter (of the coil)=higher ohms, etc.

Edit: As others have said, micro coils really are easier to build than regular coils (once you get the hang of things). A "little" more involved, but easier.

One more edit. The above is for a Protank/Evod coil.

 

[Spazmelda]

IMO micro coils and regular coils are about equally easy.

I started with regular coils on a protank. I found it to be not that hard. The hardest thing for me was getting the silicone grommet back in, but that's easy now. Here's an outline of how I do it:

1. Disassemble the protank head. Set the chimney and silicone cap off to the side where you won't lose them. Throw away the flavor wicks.

2. Use small needle nose or jewelry pliers to take out the bottom pin. Use pliers or your fingernails to pry out the grommet, carefully as it can tear.

3. Pull out the coil and wick and toss them.

4. Pull off about 3-4 inches of 32 gauge kanthal (maybe less as you get better at it). You can torch it a bit or not. See which works for you.

5. Line up a piece of 2mm silica with something thin but sturdy (I use a long needle thing). Starting about 1.5 inches from one end of the wire, wrap about 5-6 coils as evenly spaced as you can around the silica and needle. Keep in mind that the length of the coil needs to fit into the protank head, but it can be squished some after you wind it.

6. Keep the coil and wick on the needle and lay it into the slots of the head with both wires sticking through to the bottom. Make sure the wires aren't crossed inside the head. Take one kanthal tail and bend it up from where it sticks out of the base and wrap it around the needle that's sticking out from one side of the protank head a few times. This helps to stabilize the coil position and kanthal while you put the grommet on.

7. Thread the other kanthal tail through the white grommet and wedge the grommet into the head.

8. Take the other kanthal tail that is going through the grommet and give it a few twists around the outside of the needle that's sticking out on the other side. Make sure the wire is exiting the bottom of the head opposite (180°) from where the first wire exited. Again, this helps to stabilize the coil and wire.

9. Wedge the metal pin into the grommet. Make sure it is snug, but don't smoosh the grommet or you might get airflow problems.

10. Snip the wires with nail clippers right where the exit between the grommet and the head and/or pin. Make sure the wire is not protruding. Remove the stabilizing needle or paper clip, whatever you were using. Use the nail clippers to trim the wick off even with the sides of the head.

11. Screw the head into your provari and check the resistance. You can also use some pokey type instrument to evenly space or rearrange the coils at this point. If you get an error, you may have some part of the coil touching the sides of the head. Try rearranging them a bit, moving them more to the center, to see if that helps. If it doesn't it's probably best just to try again.

12. Set the provari fairly low voltage and fire the coil up for a few seconds. See that the coil glows evenly. If it doesn't try rearranging the coils with your pokey instrument. Check to make sure the wire is touching the wick everywhere (wire not touching the wick can produce a funky taste IME).

If everything checks out, put some eliquid on and fire it up. It should make some vapor. Then just reassemble the rest, adding flavor wicks, and fill it up.

That probably took longer to type than it takes to actually do, lol.

Anyway, there are many ways to do this, but that is how I do it.

 

[VIAWOL]

AND had I opened both eyes you already have the video I posted and then saw was a dupe of the one up above. Sorry.

4-40 Machine Screw was my first 'guide'. It's a good one and you can progress from it.

I just had to be careful to 'follow' the screw threads and not jump over one. GOOD LIGHTING helped a lot.

Good luck.

Senile Old Man Don ................. (NOT an 'expert' on coils)

I really agree with this. The screw made my life easier by far. I started rebuilding protanks and vivi novas too. I also used a length of 32ga kanthal folded in half and twisted as a threading needle to pull my cotton yarn thru the coil. Good luck.

This post was found in an ancient ruin, possibly left by aliens.