rebuilding t3

[ktazz]

Hi,

I'm having some issues with rebuilding the T3 Clearos, no matter what wick I use it tastes burnt, I followed numerous How-To posts and videos but they are always the same, I've used the expensive XC-116 wick, regular wicks and ekowool but it is still the same.

For those that have rebuilt it and had good results, care to give me some pointers? I have about 20 out of commission t3 heads and would hate to let them go to waste and have to spend more money on new heads.

Thanks!

 

[Tmartin63]

Hey ktazz, I use a 16 guage needle, do a 4/5 wrap with 32 kanthal. Wrap tight and then squeeze it together (like a micro coil). Leave the needle in the coil while I place it in the base and reassemble. Then test the ohms, I'm usually at about 1.6 - 1.9. Then I put it on a battery and test fire. Make sure the coil starts getting red in the middle and works it way out. Then I use 100% cotton from a cotton ball (from CVS), make it small enough to fit into the coil and thru the other side easily. If it won't go thru it's too big, thin it down. Then I use two strands of cotton yarn (peaches and cream 100% undyed cotton from Walmart). Put the tube on, trim the wicks to the length of the side of the base and done. Install in my T3 tank and let sit about 15 a 20 minutes. Do not dry burn cotton at all, any, none...it will burn it and it is useless. I have tried several different materials too, and this seems to be the most consistent. I just did about 20 of mine two days ago because the last 10-15 times I did them this way it worked the best. I hope this helps cause I feel your pain. Good luck!

 

[awsum140]

I usually, well always so far anyway, use 3mm silica wick with a 20ga needle for a stabilizer. I wrap 6 turns of 32ga Kanthal, not tight wrapped just firm, and get around a 2.5 ohm coil. I also leave the needle in place until the coil is mounted back into the base. For the flavor wick I "uncurl" some 3mm wick and lay two strands on top. I also check ohms after the needle is withdrawn and again once the flavor wicks and air tube are back in place. Works fine for me on X2s as well as my VV and VV/VW mods.

Another comment is to be very careful with the ends where the wires are trimmed. Make sure they are tucked under the grommet and under the center post to prevent shorts. That can make you chase your tail, LOL!

 

[ktazz]

Just an update, I just built my first usable non-burnt tasting coil!! what was different this time than the other times was that after the coil is built around the wick, I didnt pull the wick down to the base as much as I did previously. As I have read that when the coil gets too close to the bottom where the grommet is it heats it up and gives off a burnt taste because of the rubber!!

 

[djezewski]

Another comment is to be very careful with the ends where the wires are trimmed. Make sure they are tucked under the grommet and under the center post to prevent shorts. That can make you chase your tail, LOL!

I have had good luck using just my hand to twist the wire instead of clip it. I had seen the clip on youtube. I was having an issue of shorting until I tried this method. (yes, I am a newbie to the coil rebuilding world)

 

[greasemonky89]

Always preburn your wire on the stove or with a butane torch. Lighters leave a residue on the wire that makes your wick taste burnt or off.

A wrench in one hand and my PV in the other.

 

[djezewski]

I haven't had an issue with the grommets and the T3 rebuilds but when taking apart an XL EE2 coil that actually have the coil sitting directly on top of a rubber grommet. The grommet was all burnt. I had been wondering why from day 1 the darn thing tasted burnt even with putting a couple drops of juice on top of the new coil.