Replacing the wick on a clearomizer
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I just tried this last night, I took some ecowool about same size as the old wick and wrapped some 30 gauge wire around it and was about 2.0 ohms. To my surprise it worked and didn't need flavor wicks. Had flavor wick and got burnt hut took it out and all was good.
This is vintage Phil, but he shows you how. This guy has awesome reviews.
A PBusardo Tutorial - Vivi Nova Cleaning & Rebuilding - YouTube
This is vintage Phil, but he shows you how. This guy has awesome reviews.
A PBusardo Tutorial - Vivi Nova Cleaning & Rebuilding - YouTube
Not difficult if you get some Kanthal wire and start from scratch.
I started re-wrapping Vivi Nova heads using 400 SS mesh and 1mm Silica hybrid wicks. I just cut tiny piece of mesh a little wider than the head (around 1x1cm). I oxidize the mesh good, and wrap it around the center of silica a few cm long, then do a 4 or 5 wrap coil around that. They usually last for several weeks.
I've also done a few using CVS surgical cotton for the wicks (I just pull a piece of cotton out of the roll, and roll/work it into small long wick between my palms...snipping to appropriate length). I find myself needing to replace these more often than the mesh/silica wicks...but they are easy/cheap to do and vape/taste really well.
If you like low resistance/hot coils...AWG 32 is a good size of wire...4-5 wraps should put you between 1.5 and 2 Ohms if you use doubled legs.
I personally use AWG 33 @ five wraps, with doubled/twisted legs and usually come out pretty close to 2 Ohms (sometimes a little under, sometimes a little over, sometimes right on).
I do recommend that you double back the legs and twist them. This helps insure that the legs themselves don't get hot, make ikky tastes, and heat up the silicon grommet in the bottom of the head. It also cuts back on the total resistance of the build a little bit. Just take extra care that nothing in the head will short.
If you DIY coils and wicks...please make sure you either have a multi meter to check them for shorts, or use a well protected APV that checks this for you. Check them often...(a good policy for pre-built heads as well).
I started re-wrapping Vivi Nova heads using 400 SS mesh and 1mm Silica hybrid wicks. I just cut tiny piece of mesh a little wider than the head (around 1x1cm). I oxidize the mesh good, and wrap it around the center of silica a few cm long, then do a 4 or 5 wrap coil around that. They usually last for several weeks.
I've also done a few using CVS surgical cotton for the wicks (I just pull a piece of cotton out of the roll, and roll/work it into small long wick between my palms...snipping to appropriate length). I find myself needing to replace these more often than the mesh/silica wicks...but they are easy/cheap to do and vape/taste really well.
If you like low resistance/hot coils...AWG 32 is a good size of wire...4-5 wraps should put you between 1.5 and 2 Ohms if you use doubled legs.
I personally use AWG 33 @ five wraps, with doubled/twisted legs and usually come out pretty close to 2 Ohms (sometimes a little under, sometimes a little over, sometimes right on).
I do recommend that you double back the legs and twist them. This helps insure that the legs themselves don't get hot, make ikky tastes, and heat up the silicon grommet in the bottom of the head. It also cuts back on the total resistance of the build a little bit. Just take extra care that nothing in the head will short.
If you DIY coils and wicks...please make sure you either have a multi meter to check them for shorts, or use a well protected APV that checks this for you. Check them often...(a good policy for pre-built heads as well).
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I have a multiple step process to using my Kanger T2 coil/wick. After a couple wick washes and the wick is un-useble I replace it. I get 6 to 10 uses out of a disposable coil. I don't do it for the savings, I do it because I just wanted to see if I could, and it gives me something to do.
So yes you can replace the wick, just pull out the old wick, dry burn the gunk built up on the coil wire, rinse it off, dry it out, put in new wick. Now you have an almost new head.
Soon I'll have a rebuildable to monkey with, can't hardly wait.
So yes you can replace the wick, just pull out the old wick, dry burn the gunk built up on the coil wire, rinse it off, dry it out, put in new wick. Now you have an almost new head.
Soon I'll have a rebuildable to monkey with, can't hardly wait.
Hi Sthur and Credo - thanks for your advices, will look into it definitely. Credo, thanks, will take it slowly (I'm a three-week noob, never rebuilt anything), but i think your instructions are great and detailed.
Cool! What thickness is the new wick - I was thinking to get 1mm it thick so it would be easier to insert, but don't know if that's the best for its functionality.
Cool! What thickness is the new wick you're usng? - I was thinking to get 1mm it thick so it would be easier to insert, but don't know if that's the best for its functionality.
Cool! What thickness is the new wick - I was thinking to get 1mm it thick so it would be easier to insert, but don't know if that's the best for its functionality.
Cool! What thickness is the new wick you're usng? - I was thinking to get 1mm it thick so it would be easier to insert, but don't know if that's the best for its functionality.
If you go with Pro-Tanks (bottom coil type), I'd recommend the following:
AWG 28 wire, and surgical cotton for the wick.
You'll build what is called a 'micro-coil' on a jig, then pull the cotton loosely through the coil...assemble the chimney then trim the wicks. These are built in a way where you can squeeze such a coil in the tiny space with minimal risk of shorts.
It's possible to do micro-coils in the Vivi Nova (top coil) tanks as well, but I've yet to try it, as there isn't much room in there and I don't want to risk the coils moving around and shorting inside the metal head.
Both types of tanks are quite good. I like the top coils tweaked to perform well at low wattage to cut down some on juice consumption and extend battery life between charges, and I also go with a little higher nic in these than I do with the bottom coil set-up, but I have to admit that the bottom coil Pro Tanks are a very fine vape when set-up right. For me, the bottom coil set-up goes through juice and battery a bit faster as I have to tune up the heat a bit to find my sweet spot.
If it's in the budget, try both
If you have to choose just one...either is good...just flip a coin and try one
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I use the same size wick. The Kanger T2 top coil uses 2mm silica. Its twisted like string, so moisten the end like you would threading a sewing needle and twist it in the direction that tightens the string and spin it through. The coil wire is in such a position where its almost impossible to replace.
Try it on an old coil you were going to toss anyway, that way if it doesn't work or you break it, no loss. After a couple times you'll get it right.
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