What would cause the resistance on a atomizer to climb? I've got a protank 2 on my MVP2 and the coil is stamped 2.5 ohm but it has always read 2.6 ohms until yesterday in which it read 2.8 ohms and now today it reads 3.0 ohms. WTH??
Resistance climbing??
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Yup, gunked up coil or it could be on its way out. My experience is that the resistance on a coilhead starts to creep up when they are dying.
Okay, I don't trust the ohm reading on the MVP as being totally accurate.
I have a new Kayfun 3.1 i picked up and setup the coil for it. When checking the coil with no juice or tank mounted to the atomizer head on a ohm checker I get a consistent reading at 1.5 ohm. I then cross checked this by using an actual multi meter and get the same reading.
When I take the head and screw it onto my MVP 2.0 or my Itaste VRT I get off readings, sometimes 3.5. If I checked it two or three times (again with no tank) it finally goes down and reads correctly.
I also see varied readings on the devices when I have my protank II's and the Aero tanks on them. I'm wondering if Wicks, juice, and the tank itself can cause varied readings or the device itself only gives you a basic idea of the ohm reading.
Needless to say I'm not relying 100% on any APV mod to check the ohm on my rebuildable coil heads. I build them, use a real ohm checker, and then when I fill and put them on the mod it reads close but never totally accurate.
I don't think it's a case of a coil being worn out at all but more of the tank construction, seating on the firing pin and mod itself, wick and juice causing different readings.
I have a new Kayfun 3.1 i picked up and setup the coil for it. When checking the coil with no juice or tank mounted to the atomizer head on a ohm checker I get a consistent reading at 1.5 ohm. I then cross checked this by using an actual multi meter and get the same reading.
When I take the head and screw it onto my MVP 2.0 or my Itaste VRT I get off readings, sometimes 3.5. If I checked it two or three times (again with no tank) it finally goes down and reads correctly.
I also see varied readings on the devices when I have my protank II's and the Aero tanks on them. I'm wondering if Wicks, juice, and the tank itself can cause varied readings or the device itself only gives you a basic idea of the ohm reading.
Needless to say I'm not relying 100% on any APV mod to check the ohm on my rebuildable coil heads. I build them, use a real ohm checker, and then when I fill and put them on the mod it reads close but never totally accurate.
I don't think it's a case of a coil being worn out at all but more of the tank construction, seating on the firing pin and mod itself, wick and juice causing different readings.
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Yeah, I don't either. When I build coils I use my multi meter to check the resistance.
Rising resistance can be several things. Coils will change resistance from cold to hot, so measuring with a voltmeter might read differently than when you use the resistance function in your mod. There's also the contact where the wires from the coil go through the bottom connector. That's a connection made by the pressure of the silicone rings and the center metal plug. You can try turning the center pin at the bottom of the Protank.
The entire length of the coil wire gets hot. Heat produces oxidation and oxidation increases resistance. Your coil is kept cooler by the heat dissipation of the juice. The tail of the coil is suspended in free air inside the atomizer between the coil and the bottom connection and it will be hotter during use.
Then, there's resistance between the center pin in the mod and the center pin in the atty. Sometimes, all it takes to restore a good vape is a quarter turn CCW and CW here and there. That wipes the pins and cleans them. If you remove the bottom center pin on a used atomizer and take out the silicone tube ring you can see burning on the silicone and maybe even a dark spot on the chrome part of the atomizer body. Both of those cause poor contact with the coil wire.
The entire length of the coil wire gets hot. Heat produces oxidation and oxidation increases resistance. Your coil is kept cooler by the heat dissipation of the juice. The tail of the coil is suspended in free air inside the atomizer between the coil and the bottom connection and it will be hotter during use.
Then, there's resistance between the center pin in the mod and the center pin in the atty. Sometimes, all it takes to restore a good vape is a quarter turn CCW and CW here and there. That wipes the pins and cleans them. If you remove the bottom center pin on a used atomizer and take out the silicone tube ring you can see burning on the silicone and maybe even a dark spot on the chrome part of the atomizer body. Both of those cause poor contact with the coil wire.
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Clearos have their legs secured by the silicon/rubber grommet. Expansion and contraction of the wire causes the legs to move ever so slightly, leading to a higher resistance when wire is cold. Try firing your clearo for a split second and read the resistance immediately after. You should see a lower resistance than when its cold.
Secondly, over time, a layer of oxide/carbon/whatever will build up on the legs. Hence the contact against the metal positive and negative will not be optimal, leading to higher resistance.
Secondly, over time, a layer of oxide/carbon/whatever will build up on the legs. Hence the contact against the metal positive and negative will not be optimal, leading to higher resistance.
I used to get ohms creep when I was using 28 kanthal in my RSST on my mech, and I'd coil it for .8 ohm, and later on it had crept up to .93 ohm, and would even go above 1 ohm, which didn't work at all for me. I started using 26 kanthal and reduced the ohms creep substantially. I now vape at .7 ohm, and like that a lot, and with the 26 kanthal I don't get ohms creep nearly as often or as much.
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