Today was time to rewick a bunch of ego-c attys. I've done it a few different ways but like with the EVOD, I decided to find out what the manufacturer did to make the original so I could replace it, at least initially, with how it was originally made at the factory. Once that is mastered and characterized, it gets easier to try to improve on it.
So exactly what's in there. Plenty of YouTube shorts will show how to take the atty apart and put it back together. The apparent secret is what's in the spike. It is actually two lengths of 1mm rope silica wick side by side wrapped in a tiny piece of metalfoam (the stuff the "old fashioned" 510 attys were/are wrapped in). It's not just a single chunk of rope wick in the metalfoam. The coil also appears to have something in its center that absorbs liquid.
Rebuilding like the stock wick is easy: remove the spike; dry burn the coil; prime the coil with 4 or 5 drops of PG (I was surprised at how much whatever it is in the center of the coil will absorb, but whatever it is, it absorbs a lot); pull the wick from the spike and carefully open the metalfoam wrap; lay two lengths of 1mm rope silica side by side and wet with PG; with sharp pointed tweezers, lay the wicks in the metalfoam and carefully close it around them - the amount sticking out each end of the metalfoam doesn't matter at this stage as you can move the wicks within the metalfoam sleeve once you wrap them in it; pull the wicks so one end is flush with one end of the metalfoam sleeve; with sharp pointed tweezers, insert the wick assembly back in the spike; trim wicks so roughly 2-3mm sticks out the bottom; reassemble atty spike into the coil cup; done.
if you've never replaced the wick, none of the above will make any sense, and if you've done it before, you'll know exactly what I'm talking about.
It works, although I can't really perceive a big difference yet between doing it this way and just using a small piece of 2mm rope silica. I'm hoping it lasts longer this way -- time will soon tell lol.
So exactly what's in there. Plenty of YouTube shorts will show how to take the atty apart and put it back together. The apparent secret is what's in the spike. It is actually two lengths of 1mm rope silica wick side by side wrapped in a tiny piece of metalfoam (the stuff the "old fashioned" 510 attys were/are wrapped in). It's not just a single chunk of rope wick in the metalfoam. The coil also appears to have something in its center that absorbs liquid.
Rebuilding like the stock wick is easy: remove the spike; dry burn the coil; prime the coil with 4 or 5 drops of PG (I was surprised at how much whatever it is in the center of the coil will absorb, but whatever it is, it absorbs a lot); pull the wick from the spike and carefully open the metalfoam wrap; lay two lengths of 1mm rope silica side by side and wet with PG; with sharp pointed tweezers, lay the wicks in the metalfoam and carefully close it around them - the amount sticking out each end of the metalfoam doesn't matter at this stage as you can move the wicks within the metalfoam sleeve once you wrap them in it; pull the wicks so one end is flush with one end of the metalfoam sleeve; with sharp pointed tweezers, insert the wick assembly back in the spike; trim wicks so roughly 2-3mm sticks out the bottom; reassemble atty spike into the coil cup; done.
if you've never replaced the wick, none of the above will make any sense, and if you've done it before, you'll know exactly what I'm talking about.
It works, although I can't really perceive a big difference yet between doing it this way and just using a small piece of 2mm rope silica. I'm hoping it lasts longer this way -- time will soon tell lol.