I am currently still using the rest of my 1.5mm ekowool and really like it because it's braided unlike 1, 2, and 3mm. Just got 6 feet of 1mm last week to see the difference of braided vs. twisted.
Rewicking - huh?? what??
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I am currently still using the rest of my 1.5mm ekowool and really like it because it's braided unlike 1, 2, and 3mm. Just got 6 feet of 1mm last week to see the difference of braided vs. twisted.
Where does one get Silica and Kanthal ?
So far I've seen only a few place 1 has one not the other 2 places to pay shipping
plus it would better if a place had other things that I might need
I have not even seen any gauge choice with Kanthal
vapor beast has Kanthal
but not silica Instead has Glass Fiber Wick
Is that the same or ok to use?
So far I've seen only a few place 1 has one not the other 2 places to pay shipping
plus it would better if a place had other things that I might need
I have not even seen any gauge choice with Kanthal
vapor beast has Kanthal
but not silica Instead has Glass Fiber Wick
Is that the same or ok to use?
i use 32g kanthal - but a lot of people use the fatter 30g or less. I use silica, because it can be dry burned to clean the coil. I'd stay away from SS for the simple reason that until you are good at making "boring" wicks and coils you are more likely to create a short-circuit.
Microcoils are a method of wrapping one coil on another so tightly around a small needle or such that they exhibit properties usually found only in low or very low resistance coils. One of the exponents of these is this guy: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/389074-micro-coil-rba-your-reo.html
The downside is the use of cotton as a wick that i find is not durable in the same way silica is, so when i make those i use ekowool or xc-116, which are both ceramic wicks and can be dry burned.
I will point out too that to begin with it can be very frustrating and my wife loves telling stories of how i'd lose my temper and "things were flying all over the room".
Best of luck!
T
Microcoils are a method of wrapping one coil on another so tightly around a small needle or such that they exhibit properties usually found only in low or very low resistance coils. One of the exponents of these is this guy: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/389074-micro-coil-rba-your-reo.html
The downside is the use of cotton as a wick that i find is not durable in the same way silica is, so when i make those i use ekowool or xc-116, which are both ceramic wicks and can be dry burned.
I will point out too that to begin with it can be very frustrating and my wife loves telling stories of how i'd lose my temper and "things were flying all over the room".
Best of luck!
T
This is the video that peaked my interest in rewicking my evod and protanks - Vapor Lady Lounge Rebuild a Protank Atomizer, eVod Atomizer A New Way - YouTube
Haven't tried it yet, and I'll probably use different wire to get to the 2.0 - 2.5 ohms, but my original "I'll never rewick!" attitude is changing.
Haven't tried it yet, and I'll probably use different wire to get to the 2.0 - 2.5 ohms, but my original "I'll never rewick!" attitude is changing.
I find that very hard to believe mate. There's something wrong with your battery's pin maybe. I have at least 20 coils brand new that I got on a sale and without having checked i can bet me bottom dollar they all are good to go.
Temco has the kanthal for bout 6 bucks for 100 ft and if not a vendor, you can get ekowool out of ebay. BEWARE there is a chinese ekowool knockoff out there so the wool your looking for is russian made.
This might help you out a bit, a place to start Resistance Wire
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how do you know which is knockoff? do they say Chinese/ Russian?
I had no problem with first 30 maybe only 2 dead there
but out of the last ten 4 didn't work out the gate
I don't know how you would tell them apart, just like the other chinese copied gear...they do a good job but have no quality.
I read that chinese ekowool does exist but I've never seen it. I rarely buy gear or supplies from vendors because of all the knockoff garbage that is out there. I bought my wool from a reputable co-op and they said it was russian and I believe that but out of ebay or a vendor I wouldn't know the difference until you tried it or compared it side by side.
If they don't say where its from or not advertise Russian, I would then tend to believe its not the real stuff.
"Ribbon" is flat kanthal instead of round wire. Also known as "bakero" or some such. It's neat on a genny atty because you get a lot of surface area touching the wick with only a couple wraps.
Microcoils a really about turning the entire coil into one large hotspot. All the coils should be completely uniform and touching. They are wound extremely small on say, a 1/16" drill bit end. They kick .... because you can get sub ohm performance out of a coil that measures well above one ohm. Basically, the smaller the diameter, the more wraps you get out of the same length of wire, so you get more surface area Evenly heating a large length of wick. there's more to it than that, but thats a laymans description. You don't have to use cotton in a micro, people have tried ceramic braids and silica as well as cotton insulated ss mesh.
The main reason I promote microcoils in kanger heads is hot legs. People like to push kangers beyond their initial design capabilities, and you can get fantastic results. The problem is that the legs can get hot enough to scorch the rubber insulators that separate the positive and negative legs of the coil. Microcoils, if built properly, have a tendency to defy the long-legs rule and give you similar performance to a .5-.8 coil while sitting well above that resistance. I try not to go smaller than 30g wire, or I twist the legs together to keep their resistance low enough to keep them from getting hot enough to scorch the insulator.
BlueMoods:10222839 said:
No offense meant. As far as I know, oil lamp wicks are a definite NO! The lamp wicks probably have a layer of wax/oil or additive to help them burn. They are meant to burn, which is what we don't want happening here.
If you've tried it and think it's safe, then vape on. If you haven't, it's very dangerous advice you've given. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Incorrect information.
Oil lamp wicks are NOT meant to burn or they would not last. Nor are they treated or they would not properly wick the oils.
Oil lamp wicks work on exactly the same principal as atomizer wicks - capillary action.
This is not to say there are not specialty wicks of propitiatory design on the market which may have special properties. Always confirm before use.
crxess:10235128 said:
I stand corrected. I'm sorry. You're right. Dumb of me to think that there would be a layer of wax or oil on the lamp wick, it wouldn't wick if there was wax on it. As to whether the lamp wicks are treated or not, I would leave it open.
You're also right that we should confirm before use.
I apologise again.
Only prob I have ever had with kanger heads is they usually don't ohm close to what they should..... :thumbdown:
Oh I have been, but regardless, when you buy a product you need to rely on being right(people w/o vv/vw), it should be right.
I'm just dipping my toe into rebuilding my Protank. Did a couple with 2.5 mm silica and 32 Kanthal. My last were done using some butcher's twine I found in the pantry pulled through a coil pre-wrapped on a 4-40 machine screw. I've been using it for a couple of days with no burned taste (yet), so I went ahead and built a couple more.
I just ordered 100 feet of 32 gauge Kanthal from Temco for $5.10 and free shipping, so I'm planning to go hog-wild experimenting with this. It's pretty easy, it's fun, and for some reason it just tickles me to death when I fire one up that I built myself!
I just ordered 100 feet of 32 gauge Kanthal from Temco for $5.10 and free shipping, so I'm planning to go hog-wild experimenting with this. It's pretty easy, it's fun, and for some reason it just tickles me to death when I fire one up that I built myself!
I don't even use replacement heads in any of my kanger tanks. They get opened, dismantled, and built with proper 28g microcoils before they touch a battery. I don't care for silica, so it's a great excuse to tremendously improve their performance from the start. Definitely experiment, and try different gauges of wire at different resistances. You'll eventually find a sweet spot- but half the fun is the voyage, right?
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