Rewicking with cotton

[Vapocalyptic]

I'd like to try a cotton rewick. I'll be using a coil from a kanger protank 2. My question is, do I have to recoil? Every guide or video suggests and atm I do not posses the know how or material. I do have some cotton balls, though!

With that in mind, it would just b the top flavor wick I'd be doing. Is it even worth it? I tried once but it tasted harsh and burnt.

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[edyle]

I'd like to try a cotton rewick. I'll be using a coil from a kanger protank 2. My question is, do I have to recoil? Every guide or video suggests and atm I do not posses the know how or material. I do have some cotton balls, though!

With that in mind, it would just b the top flavor wick I'd be doing. Is it even worth it? I tried once but it tasted harsh and burnt.

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1: No you don't have to recol; just dryburn it first.
2: Yes just do the top wicks.

3: after you put the top wick, you need to add some drops of eliquid. A needle bottle would be nice; safer to put too much than to put too little; you don't have to do it because you could just leave it sitting in a tank soaking for an hour while you wait; ok 5 minutes is probably good enough, but anyway just add a 3 drops or so; best to west the coil first, then add you top cotton wicks and wet them.

 

[ImageX]

No top flavor wick. Pull that out along with the main wick. Twist a piece of cotton to make it skinny enough to fit through coil and then untwist to fluff it. If you do it right, it will work great. Nothing else needed.

 

[fajuvo]

I hope it's organic cotton and cotton has been boiled first or you can get some very nasty taste from the cotton.

 

[Vapocalyptic]

It hasn't been boiled. I'll purchase some. Does boiling cittin have a foul smell? I have a small house and a .....y roomate lol. So i can pull the entitre silica out and thread cotton through it..hmm

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[Markus765]

Someone mentioned in another thread they used the cotton from a Q-tip. Good idea? Bad idea?

 

[ImageX]

It hasn't been boiled. I'll purchase some. Does boiling cittin have a foul smell? I have a small house and a .....y roomate lol. So i can pull the entitre silica out and thread cotton through it..hmm

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Yes, pull ALL the silica out and thread organic cotton through the coil only. You want it to be slightly snug but not too tight. Boiling organic cotton isn't necessary(and doesn't smell) but can remove any hydrogen peroxide that is used for whitening. Many people don't bother and just fire it (after wetting with juice)a few times first before hitting it. Never dry burn a cotton wick. It will burn instantly... unlike silica.

 

[Vapocalyptic]

Sounds great. When i try this, do i have to pop the coil itself out, or can it be threaded while seated in its base?

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[Vapocalyptic]

If you understand what i mean. I removed the silica from a junk coil but it seems difficult to thread cotton as it is almost recessed or something.

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[edyle]

It hasn't been boiled. I'll purchase some. Does boiling cittin have a foul smell? I have a small house and a .....y roomate lol. So i can pull the entitre silica out and thread cotton through it..hmm

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1: No boiling doesn't smell.
2: Yes you can rewick the coil, but for a first time I wouldn't advise trying it unless you have spares (AND good eyes); theres no need to.

The more important thing is actually to DRYBURN your coil.

 

[ImageX]

Sounds great. When i try this, do i have to pop the coil itself out, or can it be threaded while seated in its base?

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Leave coil in place and try to disturb it and make sure it stays centered before ya put it all back together. You can move it side to side with the cotton if ya need too. You can wrap your own coils for them too. Not needed though until the stock ones burn up. It's a little tedious but easy nonetheless. It all gets easier the more ya do it.

 

[edyle]

Someone mentioned in another thread they used the cotton from a Q-tip. Good idea? Bad idea?

What you want is plain organic cotton, not any synthetic petroleum fiber; smell you cotton and see what you think;

that coil gets hot, even red hot if dry; you don't want synthetic fibre burning on your hot coil and you inhaling it.

 

[ImageX]

1: No boiling doesn't smell.
2: Yes you can rewick the coil, but for a first time I wouldn't advise trying it unless you have spares (AND good eyes); theres no need to.

The more important thing is actually to DRYBURN your coil.

Rewicking the coil means rewicking with cotton THROUGH the coil. It doesn't mean recoiling your kanthal if that's what you're saying. Adding a piece of cotton flavor wick to a silica wicked coil is not rewicking and is pointless.

 

[edyle]

If you understand what i mean. I removed the silica from a junk coil but it seems difficult to thread cotton as it is almost recessed or something.

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Oh; well good luck with that; if you don't have a spare, youre just gonna have to get a needle and try to thread some cotton thru;

now that you've taken the wick out you've introduced a whole nother level of complication;

First thing though - have you dry burned the coil yet? You have to dryburn first before putting in cotton.

Too bad you didn't dryburn with the silica wick inside, it's worth it to see silica wick turn white from a hot dryburn. Just watching it happen shows you that your silica wick isn't burning from a hot coil

 

[ImageX]

Oh; well good luck with that; if you don't have a spare, youre just gonna have to get a needle and try to thread some cotton thru;

now that you've taken the wick out you've introduced a whole nother level of complication;

First thing though - have you dry burned the coil yet? You have to dryburn first before putting in cotton.

Too bad you didn't dryburn with the silica wick inside, it's worth it to see silica wick turn white from a hot dryburn. Just watching it happen shows you that your silica wick isn't burning from a hot coil

You are confused to what rewicking is. Rewicking means pulling out ALL of the silica and threading cotton THROUGH the coil.


omgfish, twist the cotton to make it tight and skinny. Use scissors and cut end to make it sharp with no fuzzies. Thread it on in!

 

[Vapocalyptic]

Thank you, I have a better understand. And yes, I do dry burn. Cotton saturates better than silica, so to the poster who suggested this is pointless...it's not. A local vendor has juice that tastes a bit muted in a stock coil. I tried his rewicked pv and it wa phenomenal. I believe i have all the info I need, thanks ecf!

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[ImageX]

Thank you, I have a better understand. And yes, I do dry burn. Cotton saturates better than silica, so to the poster who suggested this is pointless...it's not. A local vendor has juice that tastes a bit muted in a stock coil. I tried his rewicked pv and it wa phenomenal. I believe i have all the info I need, thanks ecf!

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Reread what my posts said. He was telling you to put a piece of cotton ON TOP of your coil that has silica still running through your coil. This is NOT how to properly do it and IS pointless. Your main wick would still be silica. You remove ALL of the silica and then thread cotton through the coil. THAT is rewicking with cotton.

 

[edyle]

Thank you, I have a better understand. And yes, I do dry burn. Cotton saturates better than silica, so to the poster who suggested this is pointless...it's not. A local vendor has juice that tastes a bit muted in a stock coil. I tried his rewicked pv and it wa phenomenal. I believe i have all the info I need, thanks ecf!

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Good. Glad you didn't wreck the coil like I did.

 

[CloudedScreen]

i've dry burning protank heads can damage the positive post insulator, is that not true?
also i have rewicked a protank 2 with cotton before, be careful not to use too much as this can result in wicking issues. i was getting a ton of dry/burnt hits.

 

[edyle]

i've dry burning protank heads can damage the positive post insulator, is that not true?
also i have rewicked a protank 2 with cotton before, be careful not to use too much as this can result in wicking issues. i was getting a ton of dry/burnt hits.

Yes the head can get hot , and dependent on the insulator material, the isulator can burn I suppose, although I have never noticed anything myself so far. On the protank and similar coils the resistance wire is just compressed/squeezed by 'insulator' material separating the positive and negative outer and inner metal regions - the outer metal being the negative and the inner metal being positive; With a proper rebuildable, it is solid metel to metal contacts screwed down with bolts or nuts, with the insulator material not in direct contact with the high resistance wire.

It is advantageous when rebuilding a protank type coil or such not truely rebuildable, to use the premade NR-R-NR coils with the NR Non-Resistance wires on either end because the NR Non-Resistance wires are not going to get as hot and less likely to burn the insulator material.