RTA issue, please help...
- Thread starter Eden Freeman
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There could be many reasons for the "no atomizer" reading in an RTA. that reading means it's ohms are too high or non existent. It might help if you provide more information as well, and pictures can help solve the problem. Here's some questions that might help solve the problem...
1) brand/type of RTA
2) brand/type of mod you're using it on.
3) type of wire and wire gauge.
4) target resistance (in ohms)
5) how many wraps you used and the size of the rod you wound your coil around.
(If you bought re-built coils, 3, 4, and 5 are already done, just list the specifications of the prebuilt coil)
The first time is always the hardest when you're learning to do an RTA. The easiest way to test for a no atomizer, is to simply make another coil. Wire is cheap, and in the beginning stages, you might have to build the same coil over and over. It is ok, and it is normal. Just keep with it, and you'll see that rebuilding is very rewarding and you'll never go back.
In the meantime, you might want to take a look at this video. I highly suggest you post pictures to help us sort it out.
If your atomizer has a screw on the 510 pin make sure it is tight. Also check your leads on the coil, sometimes if you tighten them down to tight you can snap one of the leads.
I'm not sure what gauge wire you use but for grins you may want to try a thicker gauge and do a quick rebuild and see if the problem goes away.
I'm not sure what gauge wire you use but for grins you may want to try a thicker gauge and do a quick rebuild and see if the problem goes away.
Thank you very much. Actually, the coils are fine. My friend tried them on her RTA and it worked fine. The RTA is UWELL Fancier RTA/RDA.
In that first picture, the coil on the left, why does it look like there is a thin spiral of wire going from the deck to the coil? Is it just me?
All mods I have seen do this on 'open circuit' condition. As opposed to a shorted condition. What happens if you just put the build deck on the mod? Did you try your friend's tank on your mod? Shorts are common, but open is usually the 510 center pins on either device not making contact. (or bad coil>post connection)
If your mod has a 'floating' center pin, make sure it is not pushed in so far as to not make contact.
And do have a look at that coil again! As uthinkofsomething said, that looks like a problem! Also, is that coil leg on the left in your photo actually captured by the screw? It kinda looks like the screw missed, and the coil is under the screw.
If your mod has a 'floating' center pin, make sure it is not pushed in so far as to not make contact.
And do have a look at that coil again! As uthinkofsomething said, that looks like a problem! Also, is that coil leg on the left in your photo actually captured by the screw? It kinda looks like the screw missed, and the coil is under the screw.
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For one, they were right about the coil. Seems there were
Thank you for the pictures. That helps answer most questions in those three pictures
For one, the others were right. It looks like there may be a short on one of the coils. A thin piece of wire goes from one coil down to the bottom. This usually causes an "atomizer short" message, but other mods might show a no atomizer.
The coils seem to be made fine. Not too high of a resistance. I would also check the center pin of the atomizer and make sure it's pushed up into the atomizer as much as possible. [EDIT: I see that it looks like it has a screw for the center pin.. make sure that is screwed in all the way] Also, check your 510 on the mod. make sure there's no debris in the 510.
Wiggle the coils.. make sure they're both not broken somewhere. make sure the leads are screwed in. Did you try it in dripper mode?
One thing to help me determine if it's a bad atomizer or bad build, is to use a multimeter. With no coils in the atomizer, touch one lead to a grub screws and the other probe on either the center pin or 510 screws, and see if you get any resistance. If you get any resistance, then it's connected. A continuity setting is better, it just beeps if you have a connection. Test each grub screw and each screw should connect to EITHER the center pin or the screws, but never both. If a grub screw does NOT connect to either the center pin or the threads, then your atomizer is bad. If you can go to a vape shop, you might be able to ask them to check to see if it's good.
Well, you covered it pretty darn thoroughly. She lives in Shenzhen, probably bumps into 50 people who could do a continuity check every day.
( No offense intended, Eden!)
These are really very simple, from an electrical point of view. Someone can surely do a quick test for you.
If you are still using a Voopoo Drag:
I hesitate to recommend this, but if you are careful, it could be a quick check. Take the coils out, put a piece of wire in place of one coil, and see what the mod tells you. Assuming you still have your voopoo drag, it should read "atomizer short". With no coil and no wire it should say"check atomizer" or " atomizer HIGH'.
( No offense intended, Eden!)These are really very simple, from an electrical point of view. Someone can surely do a quick test for you.
If you are still using a Voopoo Drag:
I hesitate to recommend this, but if you are careful, it could be a quick check. Take the coils out, put a piece of wire in place of one coil, and see what the mod tells you. Assuming you still have your voopoo drag, it should read "atomizer short". With no coil and no wire it should say"check atomizer" or " atomizer HIGH'.
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