***Saber Touch Custom Colors!***

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Youthful313

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I have a question I couldn't find an answer for. In either this thread or the big thread you mentioned buying a pound or 1/2 pound of color in reference to a custom color ST. Do those amounts apply to the mini also? Then is it a 1/2 pound of color for a ST *if* everything goes right when applying the custom color so that's why folks should get a full pound just to be on the safe side?

I got a full pound to stay on the safe side.
 

Sir_Lawrence

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I have a question I couldn't find an answer for. In either this thread or the big thread you mentioned buying a pound or 1/2 pound of color in reference to a custom color ST. Do those amounts apply to the mini also? Then is it a 1/2 pound of color for a ST *if* everything goes right when applying the custom color so that's why folks should get a full pound just to be on the safe side?
OK... remember, the Mini is only 1 1/2" shorter than the regular sized Saber Touch. So, it's not much different as far as how much powder to use. You can get away with only ordering 1/2lb for either, but I do recommend buying 1lb for a couple extra dollars just in case the color you pick out is tricky to work with. I usually shoot 2-3 ST bodies to make sure I get it perfect for you. Some colors take a couple of coatings as well, so more is needed in that case. As a matter of fact, the last 5 out of 10 of the latest customs I've built took more than one coating of powder coating. It all just depends on what color and type it is.
 

Sir_Lawrence

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Here are some pics!


24ct. Gold Saber Touch 5v and Mini
Goldweblarge.jpg


Sterling Silver Saber Touch 5v and Mini
Silverweblarge.jpg


Now I Just Have To Get A Tux!​
 

Youthful313

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is there a reason the ends can not be color coated as well using the same pound or a different color for 1/2 pound?

The ends can't be coated b/c the ST button is a complete circuit button. It requires you to touch the button and complete the circuit by touching the device or it's end caps. When powder coat gets put on the device the only thing that has enough conduit to make the device work at full power are the end caps. So if the end caps are powder coated it would effect the devices ability to work at a 100%.
It's usually better to order the full pd. of powder coat so if there is a mistake Sir Lawrence can fix it by powder coating another tube.
 

Sir_Lawrence

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is there a reason the ends can not be color coated as well using the same pound or a different color for 1/2 pound?
I'm working on a new sensor that you will be able to make contact without touching one of the end caps. But, one problem still remains... The connector is "brazed" to the top cap. I'm not sure how well the powder coating will hold up using a torch to it! I really don't want to use the "epoxy" method for attaching the connector, since that is not nearly as strong as the welding. But I'm working on it.
 

Sir_Lawrence

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I did not realize the end caps were part of the circuit, haven't read every detail yet, got distracted by the colors. The smooth end caps look a lot better than the garden hose caps, by far (even if they started out that way)!
Yea, the caps become part of the circuit connection when it's powder coated. If it is the Shiny or Brushed finish, then the body is part of the circuit. I designed it this way to make it much safer. If you use a metal drip tip, you can touch the sensor and just vape... completing the circuit since your mouth is making contact. It's pretty cool! And no... there is NO Danger involved!
 
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