Safe Vaping Charts

[claybuster]

Looking at the charts, I would like to keep what I do in the green zone. What I cannot find is a chart that goes low enough in ohms to tell whether or not what I am doing is okay. My latest atomizer build is a .4 ohm on a Plume Veil. I use it with max airflow, side windows open full and top cap open allowing air. Excellent vapor production (for me anyway), at 7 watt - 1.7V (IPV2X mod reading). So where do you think that type of build would land in the charts. Safe to say I am in the green zone? I guess maybe I have developed some paranoia with this formaldehyde thing that has been floating around the internet. Does anyone know where to find a chart or calculator that goes from .1 ohm on up and indicating the safe areas?

Thanks,
Charles

 

[bacc.vap]

Do you have a link to the chart you're using? I ask because the colored charts I know of are not really meant for that purpose. They were designed for cartomizers, so that you could see when the filler would likely start to burn if you took the voltage up too high.

 

[Baditude]

Do you have a link to the chart you're using? I ask because the colored charts I know of are not really meant for that purpose. They were designed for cartomizers, so that you could see when the filler would likely start to burn if you took the voltage up too high.

The above comment is exactly correct. The Safe vaping Power Chart was designed a couple of years ago for cartomizers using "normal resistance" coils. This chart will not translate for anything sub-ohm.

Where safety is concerned with sub-ohms, the two most important things to know when rebuilding coils is to know the amp limit of the particular battery you have and to know the measured resistance of your coil. This is where Ohm's Law comes into play.

List of Batteries and Amp Limits

AW IMR
18650 2000mah 10Amp
18650 1600mah 24A18490 1100mah 16.5A
18350 700mah 6A
18650 2200mah 20A
18490 1200mah 18A
18350 800 mah 12A

LG 18650HE22500mah 20A

MNKE IMR
18650 1500mah 20A
26650 3500mah 20A

Panasonic or Orbtronic hybrid
CGR18650CH (IMR/hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
NCR18650BD 3200mAh 10ANCR18650PF (LiNiCOMnO2) 2900mAh 10A
NCR18650PD (LiNiCoAl) 2900mAh 10A
Orbtronic 18650 SX22 2000mAh 22AOrbtronic 18650 2500mAh 21A
Orbtronic 18650 SX30 2100mAh 30APanasonic 26650
CGR2650A 2650mAh 50A

Samsung hybrid (LiNiCoMnP
)INR18650-20R 2000mah 22A
INR18650-25R 2500mAh 20A

Sony hybrid
18650VTC4 2100mAh 30A
18650VTC5 2600mAh 30A
26650 2600mAh 26A

Efest IMR
18650 2250mAh 10A
18650 2000mAh 10A18650 1600mAh 30A
18490 1100mah 8.8A
18350 800mah 6.4A
purple 18650 2500mAh 35A* (rebranded LG18650HE2 2500mAh 20 amp*)
purple 18650 2100mAh 30A (rebranded Sony 18650VTC4)
purple 18500 1000mAh 15A
purple 18350 700mAh 10.5A

When you build your coil and fire it on your mod, it will draw a specific amount of current (amps) from the battery. That current must not be more than the total amps in continuous discharge rate of the battery, or very bad things could happen.

Never fire a coil without first confirming the ohm resistance on an ohm reader or multimeter. You can't just rely on a coil wrapping calculator or somebody's recommendations, there's too much chance for human error. The smallest error can be catastrophic. Even seasoned veterans always check the resistance of their coils on a meter to make sure they are safe.

To find out what current (amps) the coil will pull from the battery, you use an Ohms Law Calculator.

You have the resistance of the coil (what you measured with your ohm meter) and the voltage (always use 4.2 volts of a fully charged battery), so type those figures into the calculator and then click calculate. The current is the amps that coil will draw from the battery. Not so hard, right?

Below calculations demonstrate that the lower you go in ohms the higher the amp requirement becomes. Always tend to err on the side of safety when you make your builds by allowing some safety head room.

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway

Having said all of that, the above is specifically for mechanical mod use. I now note that you are using an IVP2X (a high-wattage regulated mod). Regulated mods will have protective circuitry to prevent firing an atomizer which is beyond its safe limits, based on the processor's own amp maximum output. A mech mod has no processor and no protective circuitry.

 

[DavidOck]

All the above.

But the bottom line is...
Start with the power low and step up slowly. When it starts to go bad, back off one or two steps. And bad chemicals from overheating will taste really bad, you'll know.

 

[SissySpike]

There are way to many factors to figure in with RBA RTA builds to have a chart. The best thing each person can do is read over the info BA provided get a multi meter and understand what you are asking of your batteries
Trial and error will teach you very quickly what you need for juice flow and air supply for any given build. Dry hits suck!

 

[claybuster]

Thanks for the replies. I didn't know the colored charts were cartomizer use only but it makes sense. Probably okay for clearomizer use as well. No problems or issues with my batteries being under powered. For my 4nine full mechs and for my IPV2X, I only use 30amp or better batteries (Efan 30 with 60amp burst, Efan 35 amp purple, or Sony VTC 4).

In regards to the safety thing, I obviously avoid the dry hits and keep the ... organic cotton wet. If the hit is too harsh I tune it down to where it feels right. On this .4 ohm build using now on the Plume, very impressed with the vapor (100% VG 24MG) on the units minimum setting (7watt 1.7volt). If I decide to go with a .6, .7, or .8 build, obviously I adjust according to where it feels right for me. Like I said prior, got a little paranoid with the formaldehyde thing, but after 33 years of analogs, guess what I'm doing now can't be worse than what I use to do!

 

[Kanger Banger]

I was wondering where the green-zone was as well, on the 1.2Ω and 0.5Ω coils that came with my SubTanks. Is 8W too cool for the 1.2Ω coils? Is 13W in the green-zone? It seems like it is, but a chart would be neat, since I'm new and have nothing to compare it to.

 

[Thrasher]

I was wondering where the green-zone was as well, on the 1.2Ω and 0.5Ω coils that came with my SubTanks. Is 8W too cool for the 1.2Ω coils? Is 13W in the green-zone? It seems like it is, but a chart would be neat, since I'm new and have nothing to compare it to.

There's just too many variables with today's tanks, even on prebuilt heads kanger may say their 1 ohm head is good around 20-25 watts yet joyetech will say 30 to 50 how do you design a uniform chart for such varying performance.

Just do the one thing that always works, don't get hung up on numbers, just turn it up till it tastes good


Too many times new vapors get hung up on this what setting should I use thing.

Does it taste good and perform well? Guess what, that's your setting.

 

[cinetrope]

Another thing to be aware of is that some modern regulated mods will allow an amp draw that exceeds the safe limits of any battery available. Case in point, the SX Mini which limits at 40 amps.