safety assistance ego with rba

[novamatt]

Are my theories correct or im still not getting it?
Thannks

You're close, but not quite there.

Before I get to your specific questions, all of this stuff is governed by Ohm's Law, which is a math formula that kind of explains how this stuff works, and you'll need to understand it a little bit to make it all make sense. Basically, you're looking at 4 different pieces that all fit together to describe what's going on electrically.

Voltage (volts): This is the potential energy available to you. It covers how much power you have to work with.
Resistance (ohms): This is how difficult it is for the power to go through the atomizer. Resistance holds back the power. A good way to think about it is like waving your hand through the air, waving your hand through a tub of water, and waving your hand through a bucket of thick mud. With air, there's almost no resistance, but mud has a ton of it, so it's going to take more energy to move your hand at the same speed.
Current (amps): This is how much electricity is actually flowing through your atomizer, and it's determined by how much power you have (voltage) and how hard it is to go through the atomizer (resistance). This is also the most important number for battery safety - the higher the current, the more stress you're putting on the battery, and the less time you're going to get out of it.
Wattage (watts): For vapers, this number is like a summary of all the stuff above. It's the number we use to describe our vape most of the time. A 10 watt vape on one single coil is generally the same on another single coil, regardless of how many volts and ohms your setup is (there are a lot of other variables that play into your vapor production and flavor, but we're talking basics here for now, so I'm going to leave them out to avoid making it more complicated). This is also determined by how much power you have (volts) and how much resistance you have (ohms).

So as vapers, we need to be able to figure out two numbers from our setup: amps and watts. Amps is your voltage divided by your resistance, so a fresh 4.2 volt battery with a 1.5 ohm coil pulls (4.2 / 1.5 = 2.8) 2.8 amps. Watts is voltage squared divided by resistance, so that same setup is vaping at (4.2 x 4.2 / 1.5 = 17.74 / 1.5 = 11.76) 11.76 watts. If your voltage changes OR your resistance changes, so do the numbers. For example, if I have a variable voltage mod, and I set it at 5 volts with the same 1.5 ohm coil, now I'm vaping at 16.66 watts. I can also get that same 16.66 watt vape by putting a 1.06 ohm coil on the original 4.2 volt battery.

I know that's complicated, but understanding all this interplay makes it a lot easier to understand the answers to your questions. I'm going to get to those in the next post.

If you don't want to do the math yourself, there's a great Ohm's Law Calculator online.

 

[novamatt]

Now let's get to your questions:

That is all that matters right? The higher thebattery voltz the safer i can vape?

Battery safety is all about the amps. Your battery will have a number in it's specs called "Maximium Continuous Discharge." This number is your battery's safe amp limit - you want your amps below it, and you usually want to leave yourself a cushion of 25% or so. This calculation based on your atomizer resistance and battery voltage only works on mechanical mods. For variable wattage mods, you'll want to just use the batteries recommended by the box maker, or just do what most of us do and get the best batteries you can find (right now, those are the Samsung 25R and the LG HE2).

Mhz = how much the battery will last?

mAh is how long the battery lasts. It stands for Milli-Amp Hours, and that's also based on your amps. One thousand milliamps is one amp, so if you have a 2000mAh battery, it will vape for one hour at 2 amps (this is only the time when you're actually pushing the button - depeding on how much you vape, this could last you anywhere from 4 hours up in the real world).

Lower ohmz= higher voltage needed of battery but bigger snoke and drains battery fast?
Higher ohmz = smaller clouds but long lasting battery life?

Higher watts will get you more vapor (bigger smoke), but will usually drain the battery faster. Lower watts will give you less vapor but tend to last longer.

Now can anyone suggest what battery should i get ig i want to use an advanced atomizers like this phoenix v3?

The easiest, least complicated way to do it is to get yourself a good starter variable wattage mod with at least 20 watts and a built in, rechargable battery. That's where you want to start. I'd recommend the MVP 20W as the first choice or the Eleaf iStick as number two. With both of these, you just sett the wattage you want to vape at, and the box will do all of the math for you, and you know the battery they build it with is safe to vape. You'll have to build your coils at 1 ohm or higher, but that's a good place to be when you're learning how to build your coils anyway.

As you get used to this stuff, get better at building, and get a better idea of what you like, you'll probably eventually want to upgrade to a high wattage mod like the IPV2 or the Sigelei 50W, so if you want to buy once and not upgrade, go with one of those. You'll want at least two of the batteries mentioned above (either a pair of Samsung 25Rs or a pair of LG HE2s).

I hope that all helps. Welcome aboard and have fun!

 

[sparkky1]

novamatt , very well explained but what is the difference between the MVP 2.0 and the cloupor or Sigelei mini 30 besides it fires down to .45 for when he's ready or want's an Atlantis for 10.00 more ? would it not be as safe ?

 

[novamatt]

novamatt , very well explained but what is the difference between the MVP 2.0 and the cloupor or Sigelei mini 30 besides it fires down to .45 for when he's ready or want's an Atlantis for 10.00 more ? would it not be as safe ?

I was looking at the MVP 20W, is the newer 20 watt version. An MVP 2 isn't going to do well with a dripper, since it only goes to 11 watts.

The difference is mostly ease of use and a little price when you're looking at the IPV mini or Sigelei mini. They're all about $50, but the MVP has a built in battery that'll last a couple of days, and with the other ones, he'll need to buy a couple of batteries and a charger. I just assumed that if he was using an ego hand-me-down from a friend that price was going to be a big factor.

For the Cloupor, I've just heard too many negative things about their electronics and the accuracy of the devices to trust them enough to recommend to anyone. I wouldn't buy a cloupor product.

It sounds like the OP is just getting started with vaping. Using something simple like the MVP is almost always a better choice for a new guy than having a million watts to work with and trying to pick the right batteries and all that stuff. Learning to build a good coil and wick it well is probably enough to focus on for now.

ETA: As far as the subohm gear - with higher wattage mods, there's really no need to worry about how low you can go because you get a better vape pushing more power through a larger coil with more surface area. I've got a 1.4 ohm build on my plume veil right now (that's two 12 wrap coils with 28awg on a 1/8" bit, so they're big coils), and when i turn the wattage up, I can blow some serious clouds if I want to show off. Bigger than any subohm chaser I know.

I wouldn't suggest an Atlantis to someone who's already building coils because it's a step backwards - replacement coils cost a LOT more money than kanthal and cotton, and if you want to vape at .5 ohms, you can build it a good tank (like the Lemo) that way, but you also have the flexibility to build it anywhere else instead of buying expensive replacement coils at set resistances.

 

[Bunnykiller]

its possible.... but you will NEED to use 30-32 gauge wire at 1.5 - 2.0 ohms.... why? the Ego has on average 2 amps of power.... just enuf to heat up 30 gauge wire to vaping temps... any thicker, the ego doesnt have the UMPF to push it...

 

[sparkky1]

So your advise is to spend a little less now and pay more later for what you should have bought the first time ?
How much knowledge does it take to take a 20 amp high drain 18650 battery out and put it back in, like a flashlight ? except with a mini it's got reverse battery protection and 10 more watts and can you actually use future devises on it.
Seriously how is a MVP easier to use ?

Still what's your budget......my buddy bought one last week for 27.00

 

[novamatt]

So your advise is to spend a little less now and pay more later for what you should have bought the first time ?
How much knowledge does it take to take a 20 amp high drain 18650 battery out and put it back in, like a flashlight ? except with a mini it's got reverse battery protection and 10 more watts and can you actually use future devises on it.
Seriously how is a MVP easier to use ?

Still what's your budget......my buddy bought one last week for 27.00

That's why I suggested both the MVP/iStick and the IPV2/Sigelei 50 and told him if he went with the lower now, he'd probably want more later.

 

[Dominic Brillantes]

Ok guys after reading all your posts and guides and suggestions i look around and this is what im going to buy


The vamo v5 vv/vw mod is good?
I am going to buy a 2nd hand only for 1900 pesos or 40$
1month used. With reciept
Vamo v5
Chrome edition
-he said lavatube i dont get why he said the word lavatube i know thats a different mod
-cartomizer
-2batteries
-3juice
-charger

Is this a good deal?
and can i already be satisfied with this vamo v5 becos i want big clouds and i read that vamo can only go not lower than 1.2ohms which already pretty low for me.

In terms of cloud chasing for newbie like me can i get good clouds? And get satisfied?

Can i use rba with this mod?

Ill add pics if he sends it

Ty

 

[drunkenbatman]

The vamo v5 vv/vw mod is good?
I am going to buy a 2nd hand only for 1900 pesos or 40$
1month used. With reciept
Vamo v5
Chrome edition
-he said lavatube i dont get why he said the word lavatube i know thats a different mod
-cartomizer
-2batteries
-3juice
-charger

Is this a good deal?

It's not the best deal in the world -- you can buy a vamo v5 starter kit with tank and all for $42 new from fasttech, or the vamo v5 on it's own for $25. Vamo's are fine, though I'd say unless it's a great deal to grab to the V6 from fasttech for $2 more. Floating 510 and 20w. Vamo's are fine, though I don't know that I'd depend on them as your only mod -- they aren't the best-built things out there. If you already had an mvp then yep.

You can use anything with an RDA practically, but you'll be happiest with something that allows decent single coil builds.

 

[greenmonster714]

You're close, but not quite there.

Before I get to your specific questions, all of this stuff is governed by Ohm's Law, which is a math formula that kind of explains how this stuff works, and you'll need to understand it a little bit to make it all make sense. Basically, you're looking at 4 different pieces that all fit together to describe what's going on electrically.

Voltage (volts): This is the potential energy available to you. It covers how much power you have to work with.
Resistance (ohms): This is how difficult it is for the power to go through the atomizer. Resistance holds back the power. A good way to think about it is like waving your hand through the air, waving your hand through a tub of water, and waving your hand through a bucket of thick mud. With air, there's almost no resistance, but mud has a ton of it, so it's going to take more energy to move your hand at the same speed.
Current (amps): This is how much electricity is actually flowing through your atomizer, and it's determined by how much power you have (voltage) and how hard it is to go through the atomizer (resistance). This is also the most important number for battery safety - the higher the current, the more stress you're putting on the battery, and the less time you're going to get out of it.
Wattage (watts): For vapers, this number is like a summary of all the stuff above. It's the number we use to describe our vape most of the time. A 10 watt vape on one single coil is generally the same on another single coil, regardless of how many volts and ohms your setup is (there are a lot of other variables that play into your vapor production and flavor, but we're talking basics here for now, so I'm going to leave them out to avoid making it more complicated). This is also determined by how much power you have (volts) and how much resistance you have (ohms).

So as vapers, we need to be able to figure out two numbers from our setup: amps and watts. Amps is your voltage divided by your resistance, so a fresh 4.2 volt battery with a 1.5 ohm coil pulls (4.2 / 1.5 = 2.8) 2.8 amps. Watts is voltage squared divided by resistance, so that same setup is vaping at (4.2 x 4.2 / 1.5 = 17.74 / 1.5 = 11.76) 11.76 watts. If your voltage changes OR your resistance changes, so do the numbers. For example, if I have a variable voltage mod, and I set it at 5 volts with the same 1.5 ohm coil, now I'm vaping at 16.66 watts. I can also get that same 16.66 watt vape by putting a 1.06 ohm coil on the original 4.2 volt battery.

I know that's complicated, but understanding all this interplay makes it a lot easier to understand the answers to your questions. I'm going to get to those in the next post.

If you don't want to do the math yourself, there's a great Ohm's Law Calculator online.

I've got a new mvp20w and want the kanger subtank mini to go with it. I see where you can fire down to .8 with the mvp20w so the 1.2ohm coils could easily be used.....right? I hope so cause I have the tank coming in the mail...lol. I couldn't afford to buy a new box mod and the subtank so I opted to get the tank first and later down the road jump to a 50w device. I like how you explained the ohm law stuff above. I'm still on the fence with all that but I keep trying to learn more. I'll get it soon. There's a lot of new tricks to learn here for an old dog like me.

 

[drunkenbatman]

I've got a new mvp20w and want the kanger subtank mini to go with it. I see where you can fire down to .8 with the mvp20w so the 1.2ohm coils could easily be used.....right? I hope so cause I have the tank coming in the mail...lol. I couldn't afford to buy a new box mod and the subtank so I opted to get the tank first and later down the road jump to a 50w device. I like how you explained the ohm law stuff above. I'm still on the fence with all that but I keep trying to learn more. I'll get it soon. There's a lot of new tricks to learn here for an old dog like me.

Yes, the 1.2 ohm coils will work and of course you can build the RTA to whatever ohm you'd like. The ideal would probably be 30w+, as its sweet spot seems to be 15-25w depending on eliquid/vape style/etc. Be aware that while it will work and fire fine, it's putting a lot of stress on it and will shorten its useful life compared to 1.8-2.2ohm.

 

[greenmonster714]

Yes, the 1.2 ohm coils will work and of course you can build the RTA to whatever ohm you'd like. The ideal would probably be 30w+, as its sweet spot seems to be 15-25w depending on eliquid/vape style/etc. Be aware that while it will work and fire fine, it's putting a lot of stress on it and will shorten its useful life compared to 1.8-2.2ohm.

Well that's some great news. I thought it would work but like many things here I don't completely understand all of it yet. I figured if it wouldn't work the tank would just have to sit around till next month.

Yep, I understand it will shorten my battery life but that's okay. I can charge n vape at the same time if needed. Thanks for the info.

 

[Bunnykiller]

using an Ego battery to fire off a RBA is like using a moped to pull an 18 wheeler trailer up a hill....