Should I buy kangertech protank 2?? Again?

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Juska

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Jan 4, 2014
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Madison, WI, USA
I had the PT2 and had issues with it to where I bought the Protank III. The PT3 produces a hit SIMILAR to that of a RBA or RDA atty, in my opinion. I'd suggest the Protank 3 then if you want the same thing pretty much but better. Also, you likely got some messed up/dud pieces. I've had two PT3's and the second, the one I am using right now, works great.

That's not to say I'll be getting my Trident V2 soon though :)
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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Port-of-Spain, Trinidad & Tobago
Davide BCC/ProTank II Adapter for Aspire Coils


DiscountVapers_Davide_Adapter_set_step4__87256.1388156180.1280.1280.jpg


AnyVape Davide BCC/ProTank II Adapter for Aspire Coils

Please read the warnings below

This item will allow you to convert your Davide BCC into a Davide BDC the difference being the AnyVape Davide BCC takes Kanger coils and the AnyVape Davide BDC takes Aspire coils.

There are some videos and blog posts telling people this adpater set will convert a Protank II and allow it to use Aspire coils. This is true.
This adapter will allow the Kanger Protank II to use the Aspire Bottom coils.
This item was originally only intended to change an AnyVape Davide BCC into a AnyVape Davide BDC, it just happens to fit the Kanger Protank II and can be used the same way.


Warning: Using this to adapt the Kanger Protank II to use aspire coils is not what this item is manufacturered for. The original intent of this item is for a replacement part for the AnyVape Davide BDC or to change the AnyVape Davide BCC into a AnyVape Davide BDC, the bonus is that it fits on the Kanger Protank II and serves the same purpose. This item is NOT returnable for any reason. Although I am very confident this will fit and work with your Protank II it is not warrantied to do so as it is not specifically made by Kanger. Please note that while it should work without fail, no assumption should be made. If you purchase this and it doesn't fit your Protank II, it leaks or otherwise doesn't work, it is not eligible for return.

Instructions for Protank II: (see pictures for step by step)

1.Remove the base of the Kanger Protank II
(the part with the 510 connector)
2.Turn Kanger Protank upside down
3. Insert the small white cap grommet seal into the hole
(this can be tricky, I use a pen to do this)
4. Screw on the AnyVape Davide BDC base piece
5. Screw in an Aspire bottom coil into the previously removed base of the Kanger Protank II
6. Fill tank with liquid
7. Attach the base to the newly installed AnyVape Davide BDC piece.
8. Let sit for a few minutes

Note instruictions are the same for the Davide although I am pretty sure anyone buying this is doing so for the Protank II :)

To prevent vendors from buying these only 6 sets at a time may be ordered

Do not lose or damage the little white grommet, it will not work properly without the grommet. This can easily roll off your desk or get lost in the packaging.
We oly have "sets", you will receive a "set" including one grommet and one base piece. We know how easily these can be lost or damaged, we are very careful with these and you will not be shorted a white grommet seal, please do not email us saying you did not receive it. All of the bags have been hand packed by me, the white grommet seal is in the same baggie that the larger base piece is in, look carefully. We do not carry extra grommets, just the set. If you cannot find your grommet, look more carefully it is a tiny white cap.

Eric's Review:
This works! I was hesitant to buy and sell these and post them with what they can do to the Protank, but after so many requests I relented. My concerns here are that they will be slight differences between protanks and davide parts since they are not made by the manufacturer that may crop up. Differences that would not mean anything between the same brand but when mixed with a different manufacturer could cause an issue. So far I have converted about 6 Protank II's with no issue so all should be good but just be aware that this item is NOT made by Kanger.
 

Don Robertson

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Nov 28, 2013
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Rio Rancho, New Mexico
My problems are my new coils won't produce vape..I'm going to order a new battery and see if that's the problem, if it's the battery ill stick to the same tank, if not I'm going to buy a new tank and see if the tanks the source of the problem

LOGICALLY the TANK cannot be the source of the problem from were I view it; it's a tank with a TOP and BOTTOM. If threads on the bottom where it screws on to the "tube" leading to the mouthpiece is are good AND the silicone SEALS are good AND the bottom seal in place and the entire assembly firmly tightened it should not LEAK (if that's your issue)

Low VAPOR OUTPUT - then the WICK / COIL which does the vapor-making job could be the issue.

If the BATTERY is failing it too could cause the issue. The TANK though? Not from my point of logic.

New battery on the way I see.......... that will tell the tale. While waiting .... disassemble, clean, check silicone seals, check coil wick and do a dry burn to see if it REALLY heats up "dry". I don't know what else to do since it appears to have been working and now fails.

No consolation - but I am on tank number 44 with my PT2-MINI and aside from coils and complete cleaning it keeps running. I DO need to get new seals for the day in the NEAR future when one fails upon disassembly.

Good Luck!

Old Senile Don
 
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I loved my Pro tank 1s and 2s, loved them. But the heaviness of the tanks, along with breaking it every other time I turned around, added to some weird shorting problem when it was threaded all the way onto the battery, led to too much frustration. In the end I wanted something more reliable that wasn't giving me fits so often, so I've switched to the Kanger T3s. They get gurgly when they get below 1/3rd full so I just fill before then. One out of ten will gurgle regardless of fill level or will leak, but overall I find them reliable enough to get the job done, and keep getting it done for a good long run. Screen Shot 2014-01-10 at 12.14.03 PM.jpg
 

Don Robertson

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Nov 28, 2013
537
837
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
I loved my Pro tank 1s and 2s, loved them. But the heaviness of the tanks, along with breaking it every other time I turned around, added to some weird shorting problem when it was threaded all the way onto the battery, led to too much frustration. In the end I wanted something more reliable that wasn't giving me fits so often, so I've switched to the Kanger T3s. They get gurgly when they get below 1/3rd full so I just fill before then. One out of ten will gurgle regardless of fill level or will leak, but overall I find them reliable enough to get the job done, and keep getting it done for a good long run. View attachment 293758

I started on the T3S with a JoyeTech eGo-C Upgrade Passthrough ---- simply love the setup. Many people gripe about them as with ALL "clearos" - not enough vapor, not enough TASTE - all sorts of things. My least favorite aspect is I see the condensation in the "drip tip / mouthpiece (clear). It's in all the darned mouthpieces - it's just hidden because it's a solid color - even the fancy ones folks pay a ridiculous amount of dough for - condensations is there; no big deal. Clean it with a tissue or piece of paper towel and it's gone.

Performance as good as a ProTank and less hassle with gaskets and the sometimes leak a ProTank gets. AND - as you no doubt realize the LACK OF CLOUDS is simply COIL/WICK related; the TANK configuration has zero to do with it - nothing at all. FIX the COILS everybody seems to love to screw with and they kick-....! Coils can be rebuilt just like the others and I don't use juice that attacks the "plastic" tank material. I buy them as low as $3.99 each from SUN VAPERS (plug-plug-plug ... just like the 'elite members" do all the time. Coil replacements - Genuine - even on E-Bay are inexpensive - less than $7.00 delivered.

I sometimes get the 'gurgle' too. Take it off the battery and turn upside down and BLOW through the base adapter - bingo - juice gone - no gurgle. I run it to the bottom with only a semi-dry-hit from time to time. Overall - for me - they relly do all I want and those vapor clouds the Ya'll Tube reviewers speak about are easily obtained by keeping it clean, washing coils every so often (2.2 ohms are my favorites) and using a juice with 50% VG or more ---- just like the high-dollar spiffy chrome and flashy atomizers. All that money for the same vape experience FOR ME is a waste.

When I found 'em on sale I bought 24 extra "bases" (where the coil screws in) so I have new gaskets all around if needed and bases FOREVER! The base can be used on a T2 / T3 to make them as close to a T3S as can be. I have not done it as the T3S on sale is less than the others and adding a base unit so T3S coils can be used. I am PASSIONATE about my good old T3S ........ REALLY PASSIONATE!

T3S does the J.O.B. for me! It is not recommended often enough for the new folks IMHO. I DO whenever I have an opportunity! On 100% VG they blow just as much of a "cloud" as the big shots who review the stuff they receive (FREE) from manufacturers (hype - both good and bad). :) In the end it's - the JUICE - the COIL and a little luck. Again - just like the big shots!

I feel the same about the ProTank2 and Mini ProTank2 I have ---- in fact I like the T3S better in some ways because I don't have to screw with gaskets! If the mouthpiece was removeable --- WOW! There - somewhat back on topic ........ like the big shots on Ya'll Tube!
Senility Central Office of The Day ........ Old Man Don
 
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carrielsal

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 27, 2013
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8,573
Chongy - in order for the coil in the Protank to fire, the pin on the bottom of the tank must touch the vertical pin in the middle of the 510 connection on your battery/mod. If you look at the bottom of the Protank, that pin is actually the bottom of the coil. Make sure the coil is actually screwed in the base of the tank. If it's loose, the pin on the bottom of the coil will not connect with the pin in the battery 510 connection.

mcapgw.jpg
 
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