should I replace my iStick or my Kanger Tanks?

[Gowanus]

I have an iStick with 2 Kanger EMOW tanks and a Genitank Mini. I run 1.8ohm dual coils in all of them, and run my iStick on 3v all the time. I'm getting pretty fed up with coils burning my juice when my iStick is fully charged. I have a tank for mint that is ALWAYS fine, but the other two tanks are always ending up with slightly burned flavor if I use them with a fully charged iStick. I can vape the same tank and coil on the Kanger MOW battery all day, with no burnt flavor. Yesterday I changed coils in all 3 tanks and broke them in on a half charge... they were all performing great. Then I needed to charge my battery and boom. Only the mint still tastes fresh.

I know about the istick's flaws, and feel I've come to know the Kanger coils flaws, and I've been thinking of getting a Joytech clearo or something... I don't really like the way the aspire tanks look. I'm not looking to subohm or get bigger clouds, I'm happy with vapor production. I just don't want burnt.

So I've been looking at tanks for days now, and I'm starting to wonder if I should even be looking at tanks, or if the answer would be a different battery. I can't imagine a different battery would make juice flow into the coil faster, but maybe it would keep the coil cool.

I'm on a tight budget. What would be a better use of the money? a new battery or a new clearo?

 

[v1k1ng1001]

I'm on a tight budget. What would be a better use of the money? a new battery or a new clearo?

Both. Take it from someone who's spent a lot climbing the vaping tech ladder, buy what you need the first time. Get away from pulse width modulation devices and into something that puts out a nice flat signal like a sigelei 50w or ivp mini 70w.

Also, consider rebuildables. An EHpro veritas clone is $18 and is a leakproof RDA once you get the hang of building it. It will kick the snot out of whatever you're using now and $14 of cotton and wire will keep you in business for the next 93725 years.

I was intimidated by rebuilding and it is one of the biggest mistakes I made as a noob. Built my first coil in 20 mins and had it perfected by the 3rd try. Had I switched to rebuildables earlier, I would have saved hundreds of dollars, not to mention 100 of hours of troubleshooting like you're doing now.

 

[shreduhsoreus]

MVP 20W is a good alternative to the iStick and they're fairly cheap now too since the MVP 3 just came out. The tanks you haven't aren't terrible, they're just not "great". If you're trying to do one thing at a time, it would probably be better to get a new mod first, then go from there. Honestly, your biggest problem right now is most likely from having an iStick, at low voltage it seems to fire way higher than what you have it set at, which is probably what's burning your atomizers and giving you dry hits. People rave about them all day because they're compact and go up to 20W, but they're just not that good. I almost bought one but ended up being so glad I bought an MVP 20W instead.

A lot of people will recommend RBAs and battery replaceable box mods all day, happens all the time at a lot of vape shops. Someone will come in with no experience buying their first kit and the salesperson will try to get them out the door with a 50W box mod and an RBA. It's just bad business. These types of setups aren't for everyone and not everyone is interested in going that route.

Remember, there's no "right" way to vape, it's all subjective and based on what YOU want and feel comfortable with.

 

[jefsview]

If you like the form factor, just pick up an iStick 30W, since Eleaf fixed every "problem" that came to light with the original 20W iStick (MEAN voltage regulation, weak threads and static 510 pin). If you prefer replaceable batteries, the Sigelei 30W is nice, and so is the IPV mini. The small box mod market is expansive and covers all price points and wattage requirements.

I hear the EMOW tanks are nice, but the Subtanks are nicer (but more expensive). There are lots of alternative, in many price points as well. But if you're happy with the tanks, just upgrade to the iStick 30W and you won't have to worry about burning your liquid or coils. Eleaf listened and fixed it's product and the 30W is everything we dreamed the original should have been.

 

[leekeylee]

I had an istick 20w and use the Emow tanks, I found that rebuilding the stock dual coils to a vertical single coil with japanese cotton meant that I could run my setup at about 12w on the iStick 20w no problem.

I have just picked up the 30w iStick because the threads on my 20w where getting a little weak and it is a vast improvement over the 20w version. Adjustable 510, better stainless steel threads, uses a flat DC output instead of PWM, and it calculates using RMS instead of MEAN so it is accurate.

My Kanger EMow tanks are great on the 30w, I am pushing up to 18-20w no problem no burnet flavour or dry hits. I do believe though a lot is to do with the coil and re-building to a vertical coil is an excellent vape in my humble opinion.

I would suggest getting the 30w iStick or even the 50w if you want double the battery life. Great little mods in my view

 

[Jen in North Pole AK]

If you are on a budget, I would recommend getting a gs air. I have been running the stock coil on my IStick 20w for a week now at 10.5w with higher VG and it is doing great. I found them at Sweet Vapes for about 9 bucks and about the same price for a pack of coils. I think evape.us has them for about the same or a little less.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

Have you actually tried to up your voltage? 1.8 ohm dual coils really work better with a higher wattage than you're using (1.8 ohms + 3 volts = 5 watts)
You may be causing the problem yourself by the cool temps you get with that voltage leaving a lot residue from the juice on your coils between vapes.

 

[inspects]

Have you actually tried to up your voltage? 1.8 ohm dual coils really work better with a higher wattage than you're using (1.8 ohms + 3 volts = 5 watts)
You may be causing the problem yourself by the cool temps you get with that voltage leaving a lot residue from the juice on your coils between vapes.

I agree wholeheartedly....many juices have different needs.

 

[Paramaniac413]

I use emow tanks and an iStick 30w now, but used them on a 20w no problem. I don't rebuild those coils. I usually caped between 3.6 and 4.5v in my emow tanks depending on the juice. Only ever burnt one coil. In the evod 2/glass tanks I have I run the 1.5ohm coils and usually cape around 4v no problem...again, burnt one coil. Try higher voltages maybe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Gowanus]

If I set the istick at anything over 4v, I get totally burned hits, dry hits. nasty. the Kanger tanks seem tailored to their EMOW ego style batteries, which only go up to 4.1v... I don't think the solution would be to over power them.

 

[Gowanus]

I should add, when I've taken apart coils that taste bad after getting zapped by the istick, there is very little residue on the coil. The wicks however, usually have a blackened area.

 

[Cotay]

If I set the istick at anything over 4v, I get totally burned hits, dry hits. nasty. the Kanger tanks seem tailored to their EMOW ego style batteries, which only go up to 4.1v... I don't think the solution would be to over power them.

Many users have reported that their iSticks had wild power fluctuations, me included. I could get no more than one day out of a BVC coil at the lowest setting on my iStick. My recommendation is to get a new mod first since it sounds like yours may be wonky like mine was.

As for which mod to get, that really depends upon your wish list of features. I presume you want a box-style mod...the MVP 3.0 has very good accuracy and does step down. Personally, after my experience with the iStick, I went out and bought a VS rDNA40 and SXMini...performance is noticeably superior on a well regulated mod. If you are happy around 20w, the SVD 2.0 tube mod is a steal for a legit DNA board with step down, but its form factor may not be right for you.

If you can swing the expense, maybe also pick up a Kanger Subtank Mini. That will allow you to continue using stock coils but it also comes with a rebuildable deck for trying out making your own coils. If you are interested in jumping straight into rebuildables, the Tobeco Kayfun V4 is fantastic and can be found around $20.

 

[defdock]

i learned myself, the istick doesnt seem to like "old school" tanks. - anything with tight airflow or slow juice flow.


you say your on a budjet ---- i would sudjest getting a new tank, specifiacly for the istick. im not sure what price range your looking at. but some find the kanger subtank, and/or the aspire atlantis to go "perfect with the isitck" - i own neither so i dont know, but what i have used on this istick, this orchid/kayfun seems to work well (granted i can build a coil and wick it right )

 

[Frenchfry1942]

An MVP20w would be a definite step up from the iStick 20.

 

[Cotay]

i learned myself, the istick doesnt seem to like "old school" tanks. - anything with tight airflow or slow juice flow.


you say your on a budjet ---- i would sudjest getting a new tank, specifiacly for the istick. im not sure what price range your looking at. but some find the kanger subtank, and/or the aspire atlantis to go "perfect with the isitck" - i own neither so i dont know, but what i have used on this istick, this orchid/kayfun seems to work well (granted i can build a coil and wick it right )

A Subtank Mini with a 1.2ohm coil would definitely work better with the iStick, but that EMOW should be perfectly fine on a properly tuned device up to 4.8w (assuming he is using the 1.8ohm coil). The iStick 20w just over powers clearos...in the long run he'd be better off with a better tuned mod and a Subtank. But you are correct that the Subtank should get him better performance.

 

[Gowanus]

I ordered an ego one with a 1.ohm coil. I just can't see buying any more kanger stuff without trying something else, and it seemed like the smallest recent tank that people like. Hopefully it plays nicely with the istick.

 

[duc916]

What I remember about the Protank 3 heads (same as what's in your EMOW) is that they're total GARBAGE. Burnt coils/wicks/juice and major gurgling were the norm after 3 days of use. Then I learned how to rebuild them using a single 28 gauge micro-coil (3/32" @ 1 ohm) and cotton wick (not the silica crap they use). It produced twice as much vapor, and I'd easily go 3 weeks without changing it, and it would NEVER drop in flavor or vapor production, never burned, never gurgled. Then one day Kanger changed the housing of the DC heads where they couldn't be rebuilt anymore, and I decided Kanger could go *** themselves, and I took the plunge to RDA/RTA's and never looked back.

Since you're happy with those heads (which are way underperforming relative to your iStick) I'd suggest trying to find the older style heads that are easily rebuildable (with the protruding wicks, not the flush type). There are a few youtube videos you can find that show how easy it is.

 

[Gowanus]

nowhere did I say that I was happy with the Kanger coils. they are clearly not great for anything other than Kanger batteries and 50/50 juices. but honestly, I don't remember asking about rebuilding microcoils. It's so predictable, that the guys who like to rebuild everything will tell anyone who asks a question barely related, that they should rebuild thier coils. No I shouldn't. If I wanted to spend my afternoons building coils, I'd get a RBA. /end rant - but seriously though, enough preaching about how everyone should rebuild tiny little piece of .... coils. Most people just don't care to. And it's not useful or helpful to put that in a thread like this, where I have a very clear question that is not related to rebuilding the coils. It's just spam at a certain point.





ANYWAY, I got the EGO One in the mail today, and while I'm only on my first tank, this thing ROCKS. I am vaping 70/30 Gemini PK Rocke Octo, and it tastes great. Tastes better than any fruit flavor I've vaped in my kanger tanks. I'm sold. For less than 20 bucks this thing is rocking as hard as any Nautilus I've tried. I have the istick set at about 3.8v/14.4w with the 1ohm coil... and it's a little warmer than the kanger, but BIG on flavor. fantastic. best purchase I've made.


I'm especially psyched to see the options on the box include black. Can't wait to order a black one. Did I mention this looks totally sick on an istick? it's almost the size of a dripper. Really looks cool.

 

[Gowanus]

 

[NasonV2]

Gowanus, I had the same problem with the .8 and 1 ohm Ugraded Coils that work in Protank 3's, T3D, and the Aerotanks. Have to keep it at 3.6v on my Cloupor Mini's. It think it's due to weak airflow in my case with the T3D.