eleaf iStick: are your threads perpendicular to the top of the battery?

[Gowanus]

I just got an iStick in the mail. I threw the ego adapter on there and then my EMOW clearo. It worked great on the first puff. Then I took a look at it, and noticed that the clearo looks like it's leaning just slightly away from straight, like the leaning tower of pisa, away from the the screen side. it doesn't seem like a deal breaker, but it's already disconcerting.

but then I took that tank off to try another, which looked the same amount of leaning...

NOW, it shows "no atomizer" when I put the first tank back on. It will recognize any of my tanks, except the one I had hoped to use with it. I tried adjusting the coil, cleaning the contacts... nothing. 0.0ohms.

 

[Gowanus]

additionally, I tried taking that ego adapter off, and putting it on another battery with the problematic tank, and it works fine. so it seems like maybe it's something to do with the ego adapter to battery connection, when using that one clearo? hard to make sense of it.

 

[mdmccormick]

the threads on my wife's istick seem to be even, although we do have issues with some tanks not making connection because of the 510 pin not being adjustable.

 

[TrollDragon]

My mini Nautilus and GeniTank work every time. I have to adjust the center pin the Kayfun 3.1 ES clone to make it contact, just a 1/4 turn out and it works.

All the tanks sit square and flush... But my threads seem to be getting a bit sloppy which is a common problem, I might have to look into the bending adapter for it.

 

[Acer50]

I also own an Eleaf I stick, what bugged me was the fire button kept sticking and I found this due to the protective plastic film that they put on the display window. It was not on straight. The other issue I have had with the Eleaf is that the ego addaptor that came with it seems not to recognise the Kangar T3S Tanks or the Kangar T3D. I tried changing the coils thinking the connector was worn out, no joy. Ok I replaced the Eleif adaptor with a standard Ego 510 adaptor and no problem. Having said all this, I find the Aspipe Mini Nautalis is the best tank for this mini mod and I bought mine here for a very good price. This tank has a spring loaded coil connection and makes good contact. I am also considering ordering the full size Nautalis as well. My Eleaf also came from the same supplier however it did not come with a charging cable but not a worry as you can use your mini usb phone charger for it.

 

[Gowanus]

hm.

when I screw the ego adapter down all the way, there is a slight gap above the screen where it doesn't sit flush. I tried screwing a boge carto into it as well, and it looks noticeably, but slightly angled.

I am getting so sick of returning things to vape stores... can't decide if I should keep this or return it yet again. this will be the 3rd battery in a row (diff brand) that I've had to return, shipping on my dime.

 

[Acer50]

hm.

when I screw the ego adapter down all the way, there is a slight gap above the screen where it doesn't sit flush. I tried screwing a boge carto into it as well, and it looks noticeably, but slightly angled.

I am getting so sick of returning things to vape stores... can't decide if I should keep this or return it yet again. this will be the 3rd battery in a row (diff brand) that I've had to return, shipping on my dime.

Yes indeed, I know the feeling well, What I get somewhat miffed about is there are so many clones getting around and one gets what one pays for. The problem being it is so hard to tell the clones apart. I got conned with a Hanna DNA 30 I thought it was the genuine article but it turned out to be a clone and the internals were put together very poorly especially the charging port which was just stuck in with glue. The number of times I had to re attach it drove me mad.

 

[Gowanus]

I knew there was a risk that this would have problems with the threads, and that I wouldn't be able to use it at higher wattages with the clearos I currently own... but between the thread issues and this slight burning that seems to be happening to my new 1.8ohm kanger coil running on 3v/5w... I am really regretting this purchase. maybe after a day I'll feel different, but I only have 3 coils left on hand to experiment with, and I didn't expect to spend more money on this .... this week.

 

[Acer50]

I knew there was a risk that this would have problems with the threads, and that I wouldn't be able to use it at higher wattages with the clearos I currently own... but between the thread issues and this slight burning that seems to be happening to my new 1.8ohm kanger coil running on 3v/5w... I am really regretting this purchase. maybe after a day I'll feel different, but I only have 3 coils left on hand to experiment with, and I didn't expect to spend more money on this .... this week.

I cannot understand why you are burning coils. I run Kangartech 1.5 ohm coils at the wattage setting on the eleaf at 12-14 watts no problem, the 1.8 ohm coils I went to as high as 10 Watts. This was using a Kangartech t3D clearo and their duel coils. On the Kangar T3s I use similar resistance coils and again no problems.

There is a good ohm and voltage tester on the market which I have purchased which not only tests the resistance but battery voltage output of the battery as well I bought mine here You would be very surprised that when I tested some of my Kangar coils their resistance was all over the place. My suspicions are that your vape is pushing out more power than what is shown on the display. The other thing to watch with the Eleif is there are many clones coming out and some of them are very sus. Two of my friends bought them from not so reputable dealers direct from China and they turned out to be rubbish. It the box does not have an authentication sticker on it then it may very well be a clone.

As stated, I have no problems with my Eleaf, only the fire button was sticking and the ego adaptor would not run the Kangar clearos the others like the Innokin 16d seem ok.

I personally have had enough of factory made coils and have progressed to sub ohming and using a Kafun tank build my own coils and that is why I needed the above tester as some of the mod testers do not work well. No the Eleaf will not run sub ohm coils. 1.2 ohm is the lowest my eleif will run.

 

[Gowanus]

it has an authentication sticker on the box... although as a graphic designer I know how easy it is to print a sticker, and it doesn't prove to me that it's not a clone. I have not scratched the sticker because I am still considering returning the battery. I won't name the vendor I bought it from, but they do seem to sell authentic stuff right next to obvious clones... such as green EMOW tanks or rainbow Vision Spinners.... and they do make a note that says "Kanger doesn't make green" but they still sell it... so it does make me wonder if ANYTHING they sell is authentic at all. If they're buying their authentic stuff from a distributor that sells clones, then there is a much higher chance they don't sell anything authentic at all. I am done ordering from this place. If only to rule out the idea that they are selling clones as authentic.

I don't have tester. I considered buying one, but had hoped since this has a display that it would show me what I needed to know. It does seem to be slightly off sometimes, by .1ohm, but it has been reading the difference between 1.5's and 1.8's.

 

[Fattlestar]

I would imagine it is authentic, but you can never be sure.

The iStick is unreliable for just about anything other than Aspire BVC coils. Completely overpowered at lower settings. Hit or miss. Also, dual coils hold up better at higher power settings, which is why the T3D may not have an issue. Kanger Singles though will burn right up even at rock bottom settings on the iStick. Even 2.5ohm singles seem to roast.

I got my iStick before clones were available, and everything I put on it has that "tilt". Threads are sloppy as hell too, slapped an adapter on it after the first week and haven't taken it off.

It is normal for mods to be slightly off on reading the coils, but generally speaking both my iStick and MVP read around .1 difference, so that's fine. There are also variances in stock coils, sometimes they are slightly higher or lower than package listing due to manufacturing differences.

 

[Gowanus]

I should clarify, I am using Kanger 1.5ohm and 1.8ohm upgraded dual coils with 4 holes.

I put a new dual coil in a fresh tank, and haven't bumped it past 4 istick volts... and it seems to be holding on without a burning flavor. But I've vaped less than 1ml on it, so we'll see where it goes.

here's a picture of the tilt... is this how yours is fattlestar?View attachment 396431

 

[Acer50]

I would imagine it is authentic, but you can never be sure.

The iStick is unreliable for just about anything other than Aspire BVC coils. Completely overpowered at lower settings. Hit or miss. Also, dual coils hold up better at higher power settings, which is why the T3D may not have an issue. Kanger Singles though will burn right up even at rock bottom settings on the iStick. Even 2.5ohm singles seem to roast.

I got my iStick before clones were available, and everything I put on it has that "tilt". Threads are sloppy as hell too, slapped an adapter on it after the first week and haven't taken it off.

It is normal for mods to be slightly off on reading the coils, but generally speaking both my iStick and MVP read around .1 difference, so that's fine. There are also variances in stock coils, sometimes they are slightly higher or lower than package listing due to manufacturing differences.

I do not know where you purchased yours, I bought mine in Australia from a company called E-Cigarettes Australia. I had no problems apart from the fire button sticking and that as I said was due to the protective film on the display being attached carelessly. I have used both 510 and ego clearo's on it and the only one that gave me an issue was the FAATANK G and the tank was faulty not the Eleif. I mostly use the mini nautalis on it and also the Innokin 16D tank. No it will not power anything below one ohm but my Eleif and I go everywhere and I have ceased using my Innokin DRV in favour of the Eleif. I personally cannot fault it. My wife also has one and hers gives her no greif as well. The coils in my clearo's range from 1.5-1.8 ohm and I crank the Eleif up to 11 watts and vaping a PG/VG mix (50%) no worries and no burning. Different strokes for different folks I suppose. The battery to watch out for is the Ego II 2000 MaH series, they do push too much power and not very reliable I found.

The only Mod I have had an issue with is the VNew and brother, was the tread on that crooked, that friends was a pathetic and over priced mod.

 

[Acer50]

Hi Gowanus,
Been away a while, I have bought my third Eleif I stick and now have the 30W upgraded version which I bought here Not a problem in the world. The 30W eleif will also handle sub ohm coild as low as 0.8 ohm and this dude has them and very reasonably priced I find. However with the 30W Eleif, if you decide to sub ohm then it will warm up considerably at 20 watt. Lol, I tried it on a Kangartec Sub Ohm tank running 0.8 ohm coil and yes it got very warm.

I now run a SMY God 180s Mod (180 watt) which is excellent for sub ohming and takes three 18650 batteries and at 20W the battery charge lasts me nearly all day, yes it is heavy, 436 grams with tank and juice but its inbuilt features are great. Ok, a lot of peeps like high wattages, yep they are great, and you do not need much Nic in your juice on high wattage settings sub ohming; I use 2mg /ml and that is enough for me. Remember if you use any higher Nic concentrations you can OD quite easily on Nic in the sub ohm mode.